Bob Fraser

Dear fellow modelers,
 
last days in my workshop were blast. I can not even describe it. I sanded the whole hull. I finally made the step I was most afraid of. I am so glad it is looking as it is. I made few mistakes with plank fitting but I believe I can repair it in the second layer. Here are pictures from sanded hull.

 
I also started with planking of the inside deck walls. Here are also pictures from process.

 
Thank you for your interest.
 
Till next time.
 

@shipmanI have all of Lou's photos, but they are copyright him, so I'm not sure about being able to share them. They are a total of 1.4Gb, around 12Mb each.
Unfortunately the link shared in his original post is no longer working.
I know he last logged on April this year, so maybe PM him to ask if he has an updated link?
 
From the pics in the 1957 pamphlet it seems the roof colours changed over the years, wood, white, or white edged wood, as did the deckhouses themselves, all wood, or wood with white panelling. The boat chocks always seem to be white though.  So again, whatever way you decide to go, it's right for part of her life.
 
Have you seen rwiederrich's build of her as the Ferreira?
 

Please do not use your email address as screen name.   MSW gets crawled by a lot of bots looking for any personal info they can find.  And also Google, Facebook, etc.  If you use your email address or even put it in a post I can guarantee that you will suddenly be getting lots and lots of spam.  So if you want give your email to someone... use a PM.  It's secure.

Thanks again Bob. Modifications made. 

Hi Bill, found something that you might like to see.
A contributor here, Lou van Wijhe, (Thanks Lou!) took some high resolution photos back in 2012 and kindly made them available to us.
The mention of the "Cable Lifter" as "a sprocket wheel on the winch spindle with large teeth to fit the links of the anchor cable" got me thinking and I remembered these photos.
Here's exactly what it is

 
Showing the run of the anchor chain around the hatch, but going behind the spokes that fit into the gaps between links, which would raise it above the hatch when raising or lowering.
No need to weather your hatch! 😄
This detail IS on the winch assembly for the model, easily overlooked without a magnifier 🙁 but might well be over large for the chain provided.
There's another good one of the windlass showing the chain coming off the top of it, again providing lift to clear the hatch!

 
Keep up the good work she's looking good.
Cheers,
Bob
 

Hi Bill, found something that you might like to see.
A contributor here, Lou van Wijhe, (Thanks Lou!) took some high resolution photos back in 2012 and kindly made them available to us.
The mention of the "Cable Lifter" as "a sprocket wheel on the winch spindle with large teeth to fit the links of the anchor cable" got me thinking and I remembered these photos.
Here's exactly what it is

 
Showing the run of the anchor chain around the hatch, but going behind the spokes that fit into the gaps between links, which would raise it above the hatch when raising or lowering.
No need to weather your hatch! 😄
This detail IS on the winch assembly for the model, easily overlooked without a magnifier 🙁 but might well be over large for the chain provided.
There's another good one of the windlass showing the chain coming off the top of it, again providing lift to clear the hatch!

 
Keep up the good work she's looking good.
Cheers,
Bob
 

Here's a pic of the figurehead provided in the kit, I seriously have no idea what this is supposed to be. 
But if I where to put this on my vessel I should call it the hms Goldnugget. I will buy a replacement for that.   
 

Hi Bill.  Forgot I had Longridges books!  I also have Modelling the Cutty Sark by Edward Bowness, 1959, and The Cutty Sark and the Days of Sail by Frank G G Carr, 1957 for the Cutty Sark Preservation society.
The first shows this, but doesn't say where he got the drawings from other than mentioning Underhill revised his original drawings later on, so I suspect his model is from them.

which shows what looks to be a sliding hatch forward of the cargo hatch and the anchor run.
In the glossary he also mentions a "Cable Lifter" as "a sprocket wheel on the winch spindle with large teeth to fit the links of the anchor cable" This could be to lift the chain clear of the cargo hatch?
 
This one from the Carr book showing the forward area is completely different.  Unfortunately no date for the photo.

Note the cowls, the anchor chain running alongside the (now boxed in) cargo hatch a through a tunnel, and the small hatchway in front of the windlass.
 
As Shipman said, she changed a lot over the years, so it would seem that no matter which plans you follow you'll get a good representation of her at some point in her life.
I have this model myself (which is why I have the plans and books), half built, but our ever helpful remodelling cats have sent her off the shelf a couple of times resulting in parts broken off and damaged so she's laid up while I consider my options.
 
Have you seen this build by Sailcat? Quite an amazing transformation. I could only wish for the skills he shows.
 
@shipman All the photos in the Carr booklet show white rails, including the photo of her after losing her rudder in 1872
 
All the best,
Bob

Hi Bill.
Here's two close ups from the Cutty plans.
1st is from Campbell, the plans are "as built 1870".

 
This secong is from Underhill. Dated 1932

 
It would seem the Revell model is from the "as built" plans.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Bob

Without some kind  of computer controlled tool; laser, CNC, your only option is by hand, or you could print a decal.
 
Make a pattern on a piece of tracing paper, then use a fine pointtool to etch it onto the work piece.

Dardanus in the Mersey , motor barge Loach going about her business . Watercolour 11” X9”

Hi Bill.  Forgot I had Longridges books!  I also have Modelling the Cutty Sark by Edward Bowness, 1959, and The Cutty Sark and the Days of Sail by Frank G G Carr, 1957 for the Cutty Sark Preservation society.
The first shows this, but doesn't say where he got the drawings from other than mentioning Underhill revised his original drawings later on, so I suspect his model is from them.

which shows what looks to be a sliding hatch forward of the cargo hatch and the anchor run.
In the glossary he also mentions a "Cable Lifter" as "a sprocket wheel on the winch spindle with large teeth to fit the links of the anchor cable" This could be to lift the chain clear of the cargo hatch?
 
This one from the Carr book showing the forward area is completely different.  Unfortunately no date for the photo.

Note the cowls, the anchor chain running alongside the (now boxed in) cargo hatch a through a tunnel, and the small hatchway in front of the windlass.
 
As Shipman said, she changed a lot over the years, so it would seem that no matter which plans you follow you'll get a good representation of her at some point in her life.
I have this model myself (which is why I have the plans and books), half built, but our ever helpful remodelling cats have sent her off the shelf a couple of times resulting in parts broken off and damaged so she's laid up while I consider my options.
 
Have you seen this build by Sailcat? Quite an amazing transformation. I could only wish for the skills he shows.
 
@shipman All the photos in the Carr booklet show white rails, including the photo of her after losing her rudder in 1872
 
All the best,
Bob

PLEASE READ!
 
Model Ship World is a massive website with a wealth of information, build logs etc. Navigating your way to the information you want can be tricky, especially if you don't type in the exact search term.
 
Normally, if you wanted to look for something on MSW, you could use the Search feature we have here, and that can be used quite effectively, but there is another way to find exactly what you need, and that is by adding TAGS to your topics. This refines the system amazingly and you'll be surprised how much information you can find when tags are used.
 
So, what is a tag?
Tagging content is a quick and easy way to categorise and highlight the content your topic. Members/guests can then use these to find information about a similar subject, using the tag as a sort of filter.
 
You can add your topic tags when you start your topic, or you can edit your first post on your current, existing topic and add them.
 
What can I use for my tags?
We suggest you use specific words, such as the name of your ship/boat, manufacturer of kit, name of drawings company if scratch built etc. You can also use the vessel type, such as yacht, brig, sloop etc. If your topic is not a build log, but a post on tools, for example, you could tag it 'lathe' or 'proton' etc. These are simply key words to help other find those specific topics.
 
What should I NOT use for my tags?
This system will only be s good as the tags you use, so please don't use generic stuff such as
hull glue wood my first project planks etc. etc. etc.....  
Those are totally pointless and will dilute the tags system to the point where it will be worthless. Please don't do it. If in doubt, contact a moderator or administrator.
 
How do I add tags?
This is so easy. When you start a topic (or edit the first post of an existing topic), underneath the Title box, you will see another box called Tags. Enter your chosen words into there, adding a comma after each one. That comma will turn that word into a tag. Just use words that are pertinent to your topic, as I've already said. We suggest no more than three words maximum.

Noice how when you then make your first post, there are some black tags also showing. Those will display the words that you chose. See the red tag? That is called a 'prefix', and it a staff-only feature, but is the same thing as a tag and is used in exactly the same way. However, the staff here may choose to use one of your tags and make it red if it's important enough. 
 

 
 
FINALLY........How do I use tags in my searches?
Ok, here is a page in the Scratch Build Log area. Notice that the Cutter Cheerful has two tags? The first one is 'Cheerful'. Now, what if you wanted to see all build logs of that vessel?
 

 
...Simple! Click the tag, and you'll see this:
 

 
There you go!!!!
 
Ok, what if you want to look at all the builds and reviews etc. we have for Ancre? Do the same.
 
Here's a screenshot of the same forum area, and we'll choose the red tag for Ancre.
 

 
Click the Ancre tag, and you'll see it does the same thing. Here's just a few of the search results!

 
There you go.
 
PLEASE make use of this feature and use words which are useful for these searches.
 
 
 

I built the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark some 50-55 years ago as a teenager. After recently finishing the Revell USS Constitution I decided to do the Cutty Sark again using the skills I have refined over the years as well as the patience that comes with age. This time I decided to work with acrylics as well as enamels to achieve the effects I want, or hope for. Will include more pics as I make my way. 

Hi again, 
 
Thank you all for the kind comments.  Great community here!
 
I straightened the deck REASONABLY.  It's not perfect, but it fits in the hull.  I carefully pulled off the old cannons and cleaned up the trucks.  I am not a good painter, never was, but started the deck and hulls with enthusiasm.  
 
Here is some headway tonight.  
 
 

Hi, I managed to get a good sanding session done and I'm very pleased with the result. No filler was needed at all to get this to what I think is a very good first layer.
 
Ken
 

Managed to complete the sternwheel - eventually. Turns out the new one piece single laser cut parts need to be fitted further back than the pictures show to allow for the wheel to turn.
(Or maybe that's just me?)
Found some copper rivets for the piston arms, and blanked off the massive holes in the engine room. Wheel turns nicely.

Sorry it's a bit fuzzy.
Next adventure yet to come is the gangway. It doesn't fit where it should because of the stairs.  The original model, and Occre's model, both have one each side, so I'll be following that when i get there.
Cheers,
Bob

Whilst waiting for the wood to arrive for the new stairs I did this one. Revell Titanic at 1/1200. (Revell 1/570 waiting in the wings)
Our 11 year old son is autistic and has had a fascination with the Titanic for over 5 years.  Turns out his mum had a cousin (2nd turkish bath attendant) who went down with her.


Not done a plastic kit in over 40 years, so thought I'd start small. Drilled all the upper portholes out and tried to seperate the pipes on the stacks.  Need to learn the esoteric art of sprue stretching for the radio wires and rigging.
 
Anyway, the wood arrived, new stairs cut out and put together.

Brass wire railings added in keeping with the rest of the stairs.
Cheers for now, stay safe and well,
Bob

Managed to complete the sternwheel - eventually. Turns out the new one piece single laser cut parts need to be fitted further back than the pictures show to allow for the wheel to turn.
(Or maybe that's just me?)
Found some copper rivets for the piston arms, and blanked off the massive holes in the engine room. Wheel turns nicely.

Sorry it's a bit fuzzy.
Next adventure yet to come is the gangway. It doesn't fit where it should because of the stairs.  The original model, and Occre's model, both have one each side, so I'll be following that when i get there.
Cheers,
Bob

Whilst waiting for the wood to arrive for the new stairs I did this one. Revell Titanic at 1/1200. (Revell 1/570 waiting in the wings)
Our 11 year old son is autistic and has had a fascination with the Titanic for over 5 years.  Turns out his mum had a cousin (2nd turkish bath attendant) who went down with her.


Not done a plastic kit in over 40 years, so thought I'd start small. Drilled all the upper portholes out and tried to seperate the pipes on the stacks.  Need to learn the esoteric art of sprue stretching for the radio wires and rigging.
 
Anyway, the wood arrived, new stairs cut out and put together.

Brass wire railings added in keeping with the rest of the stairs.
Cheers for now, stay safe and well,
Bob

Thank you, Mark!
 
Here’s the binnacle installed, with the wheel behind it:

Now on to my fire buckets!

Test build #1, worked awhile putting this one together to see if it will work for all the others. I discovered it will work ok, just have to fine tune some drying procedures and watch the coloring as I add some extra pieces. This isn't a finished sail for install as it was application procedural technic. The wire will not be incorporated as I was going to do, these mold into shapes nicely and eliminates a extra step towards the final product.
 
Some images:
Adding some definition pieces along with strengthening the sail.
 

 

 

Adding the rope for the sails:
 

 

 

Tie offs in miniature:
 

 

Seems the coloring works well with the model but I will be adding white highlights to the sails for some more definition.
 

Little more progress on the first level rooms and the second level deck. 
 
I always get nervous about the integrity of gluing things that hang off/have potential to be bumped. So I added a little reinforcement. I drilled small holes and then put a brass pin with superglue inside of the “stabling box” and then lined up the holes on the wall, drilled, and used wood glue for the box against the wall with superglue on the brass pins. I used this technique on my previous build and everything held up great. 

Going over reference material for the sail build in "Historical Ship models book"; I'll be incorporating the data from these page to add detail enhancements to keep the model looking as professional as possible. One troubling item is the color of the sails, if hence; when I have them completed and the color is to non historic, I'll simply go back to the build board and go only with pure white sails with the detail lines and accessories  added. 
 
Will need some input from everyone on this as now it seems the color maybe to much for the sails. Since the Alabama was out to sea for long periods of time it seems logical that the sails were a off light brown from exposure and wear but all the historical drawings of her do seem to indicate they were just a dirty white in color. What's yawls thoughts? Would like to hear them for a consensus in the color.
 



 
 

The first boat is finished. With the hull done, the rest was pretty straightforward. I sanded the outside to a reasonable finish, though the planks are too thin to completely remove the clinker-like artifacts, and painted it white. Inside, I added more ribs (also using the planking shears for a consistent, if not attractive, appearancew). I used the thin planking strips for this, as the 1/16" square stock is way too thick to look realistic and got crimped down to the narrower thickness during bending anyway. I then laid a new floor of three planks to hide the ugly braces they tell you to add along the keel for planking (unnecessary in my opinion), then added various seats and details. I then carved rails from the wider stock supplied in the kit. Internal coloration used careful washes of thinned paint and/or dry rubbed pastels. Final details involved making oarlocks and something for the boat to sit on. I didn't add the rudder or make oars as I'm going to say these were stored out of the weather. See four photos below of the finished boat, including one of its intended final location:




So that's done. But don't change the channel just yet! Coming up next, I build boat #2 using the various lessons I learned from boat #1, to see if I can get a better result and a smoother set of instructions for others. I've already identified several improvements that are working well as I get started on this. When it's done, I'll write up a concise and comprehensive set of suggestions for anyone who decides to tackle one of these despite the warnings.