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dgbot

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by dgbot

  1. The traditional glue is contact cement which can be messy. Several members of my modeling clubs swear by CA. Which ever you use make up a test sheet first to see if you like it. David B
  2. Make sure that you do as much work as possible before you intall the for deck. A club member is working on the same model and found that installing all of the rigging details and bolts at the bow makes it easier to get the stays done. David B
  3. Looking good but be careful using steel wool. It can leave small particles on your deck and my cause some rust spots to form. David B
  4. There are several models to choose from. As mentioned before you have Harbor Freight and MIcro Lux. Then there is Taig, Sherline, Enco, Jet etc. I bought s Sherline used years ago and have been happy with. You have to remember that you get what you pay for. Enco and Jet are for heavy industrial us. And are built for it. Taig And Sherline are for The home shop machinst, jewelers. etc. It depends on what you are going to do with it. My motto has always been to get the best itiem that you can afford. That way you know what to expect. David B
  5. Impressive joinery. One small mistake and you have to start all over again. Bravo on your patience and steady hand. David B
  6. Having a small mill can be nice. But if you do not have the training it can be a very expensive drill press. If you know what you are doing it can do many things. David B
  7. I also use Elmer's I find that it is the easiest filler to use.. David B
  8. A couple of years ago I bought this kit at a good price. I am looking at it again and I wonder of anyone has built it. David B
  9. Model Shipways and Blue Jacket have the best instruction manuals as far as I am concerned David B
  10. There are several tutorials about planking. Several of them can be found here. A single planked model means you have to take a little more care when laying your planks. Try to plan ahead and double check your runs. This will involve bending and shaping them to fit the hull . David B
  11. I have experimented with windshield wshing solution with good results. However if you can use the thinner recommended that is the best way to go. David B
  12. Two books come to mind that should help you. Tabletop Machining by Joe Martin and The Home Machinist's Handbook David B
  13. Does the Proxon run at a higher RPM to compensate for power? If so this mght be the problem. The jim Byrnes saw is a powerful beast. David B
  14. You can buy these blades from Thurston Saws, Or try MSC International. or Enco. David B
  15. I have to agree with all of the rest. Great job. Kudos! David B
  16. Great work Toni. what kind of finish are you going to use when you get to it? David B
  17. Great work on your A frame. And I like the look of your dredge guards. A great way of thinking outside the box. David B
  18. One of the things about this boat is all of the various models there were. You are going to have a lot of fun detailing and outfitting it. Keep up the good work. David B
  19. This book is a must have for anyone wanting to build a fishing schooner from the late 19c to 20c. David B
  20. As Wefalk said you need a dead flat surface for honing an engraver. I made mine from HSS tool steel and drill rod. After grinding them to the disired shape I made a fixture and used that to hone them. I turned down some dowels and used them for the handles. They are very easy to produce. and fun to use. David B
  21. For metal turning of brass I have made my own out of tool steel and put them in a handle. They do come in handy every now and then. David B
  22. I use both. metal to wood for CA and pva glue for everything else. PVA in my opion works better for wood. You might have to clamp the part but the end result is better and stronger. A CA joint has little shear strength and can be difficult to clean up if you use to much. David B
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