mikeaidanh

The picture below shows pretty much all the tools I use for building plank on frame hulls.  The saw is a jewellers saw and the knives are surgical scalpels - generally better quality than hobby knives.
 
The list as shown in the photo is:-
Proportional dividers
Six inch steel rule
Pencil
Six inch three cornered file
Jewellers barrette file
Jewellers three cornered file
No. 4 scalpel with No. 22 blade
No. 3 scalpel with No. 11 blade
Sanding stick
Jewellers saw with various blades depending on work being done
 
You don't need the proportional dividers at the top for your solid hull, but you may need a heavier file or rasp for the heavier cutting work.
 
I think the basic advice is - only buy tools as you need them - otherwise you'll end up spending a lot of money and having a drawer full of tools that you never use.
 
John
 

Try to find rubber tipped tweezers. They work awesome with soft wood and smaller pieces.

One of the problems I encountered when I started modelling was which type of wood did what, and what did it look like. As I searched amongst various wood suppliers for the characteristics of different woods I realised that this kind of information could prove very useful to others in a similar predicament. Hence, in my previous life as a member of MSW I submitted this article hoping others would find it interesting. As all the original files were lost when the gremlins invaded MSW I am posting it once again.
Modelling Woods backup.doc

Old boy,
 
There is a PDF file, which is downloadable, in the MSW Articles and Downloads section:
 
http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Rigging_and_Sails/ScaleSails.pdf
 
I used this as a guide when making furled sails for my Oneida model, which can be found in the completed model gallery.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/94-us-brig-oneida/
 
Regarding sail 'cloth' materials silkspan is, as far as I'm aware, still manufactured and available. That is what I used on my Oneida sails. It is available in three different weights. I used the lightest weight version as it is thinnest, and thus rolls into the tightest furled sail.
 
I happen to really like furled sails on a model as a way to present the model as a 'sailing ship' without obscuring too much of the rigging details.
 
All the best,
 
Elia

Great tool! Good for transferring dimensions from scale plan to model. Take care of the nice sharp points as they are great for "pricking off" measurements direct to your timber.
 
Mike.

Hi.
Having seen a few people on this site put LED's into there models I thought it would be nice to have a flickering candle lamp for the period ship.
Its cost is low and the effect is real.
The brightness and the duration of the flickering are randon on each candle.
I found this on the Arduino page and its is freeware IE no lisence to use.
I used surface mount LED's as they are very small and easy to put into almost any scale of model.
Step by Step instructions below.
 
Equipment needed :-
 1  Arduino nano chip. Source  Ebay  261232492487
Very thin wire (Copper will hold its shape after bending). Insulated or un insulated will do.
6  SMT 1206 White LED’s . Source  Ebay   121077374673 or you could use 3mm LED’s (much bigger).
6  Resisters 820 Ohms.  Grey, Red, Brown.
1  Battery holder for 4 AAA batteries.
4  Batteries AAA  Rechargeable.
1  Simple On/Off switch.
 
1 orange shopping bag. For the colour.
Computer with USB.
Total cost £18
 
Step 1 Download the Arduino  software from :- http://www.arduino.cc/  Second Tab click the Download.
A little way down the page click on Windows Installer and it will install the Environment.
Now click the Getting started to the Right of the Windows Installer.
Agree with the download (varies with Windows version) and click to install.
It will ask if you want to install the drivers Yes install.
Next click the Chip you are using ”Arduino Nano”. There are two types check the type you have.
 
Run the Arduino software and use the information on selecting the Arduino Nano.
A small box area will appear. Copy and paste the Code below into the white area.
Next plug in the Arduino Nano into the USB and the computer will find the Arduino Nano.
Now under File in the Arduino Environment select File in the Top left corner move down to Upload and click.
The Arduino should flicker when uploading. And the Arduino Environment will display any messages relating to the uploading. You may need to change the COM port to get a successful upload.
That’s the programming Done.
Step 2.
The Arduino Nano Chip Has no Headers soldered in place.  This makes it easy for us to connect the LED and Power.
Refer to picture.
Connect the + on the battery box to the Switch
Connect the + from the switch to Pin No 27
Connect the Ground from the battery Box to Pin No 29
Now solder a resister into Pin’s numbers. 6.8.9.12.13. and 14.
Next you solder the SMT LED’s to the Wire.
You can test each one as you complete the soldering by connecting the Anode to the 5 volt power supply. And the cathode to the Unconnected en of a resister.
With the battery on the connected LED should flicker.
Repeat the same for all 6 LED’s.
Next we tear off strips of the Orange bag and wrap it around the LED. Do not buy Orange LED as the effect is not the same.
Mount the LED inside lanterns around the ship. Careful planning will hide all the wires.
The Anode of each resister can be connected to the same wire. Common Power.
The LED’s and wire can be built into the model as it’s rare for a Led to fail.
The Arduino Nano and the Battery box can be hidden in the base.
 
Code Below this line. ******************************************************
 
/*http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,7115.0.html
 * randomly flickering LEDs
 */
 
int ledPin[] = {
  3,5, 6, 9, 10, 11};              // pwm pins only
int ledState[6];                 // last state of each led
long randNumber;
 
void setup() {
 
    pinMode(ledPin[0], OUTPUT);   // Just tells the Arduino that this is a output
    pinMode(ledPin[1], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[2], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[3], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[4], OUTPUT);
    pinMode(ledPin[5], OUTPUT);
 
  randomSeed(analogRead(0));     // seed the random generator with noise from unused pin
    ledState[0] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[1] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[2] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[3] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[4] = random(20, 201);
    ledState[5] = random(20, 201);
}
 
void loop(){

    analogWrite(ledPin, ledState);     // set the pwm value of that pin determined previously
    randNumber = random(-70, 71);            // generate new random number and add that to the current value-40,41
    ledState += randNumber;               // that range can be tweaked to change the intensity of the flickering
    if (ledState > 200) {                 // clamp the limits of the pwm values so it remains within
      ledState = 200;                     // a pleasing range as well as the pwm range
    }
    if (ledState < 10) {
      ledState = 10;
    }
  }
  delay(100);    // the delay between changes
}
 

 
 
Any questions ..PLease ASK.
 
Regards Antony.

Mike---- If you Google "HMS Victory Ships boats" you will see the boat chocked on the walkway next to the  Victory that shows the ochre, black and white scheme. But as Druxey says, many colors were seen. Many Victory models, including one of mine, show green in use as well.......
john

My understanding is that ships' boats of the period had no standard color scheme. Often it was 'captain's fancy'; in other words, whatever the individual captain ordered. So you would be safe to use any of the standard colors of the day; ochre, blue, black and red. Or, as you've suggested, varnished. You're the captain!

There are two types of sellers....
 
1. Model Builders who just have some second hand tools, kits, etc and wish to sell them to other hobbyists.   You must be a member in good standing at MSW to post stuff for sale if you are in this category.....You must have 25 or posts on MSW as a member in good standing to post stuff for sale.
 
2. Commercial business....online stores  No advertising/self promotion is allowed on the forum.   If your business is interested in posting about your products or services, please contact admin (Chuck) about becoming a sponsor of this site.  As a sponsor you will be able to promote your products and services here in the the traders and dealers area as well as have a banner linked to your website along the right side of the forums main page.  Unless you are a sponsor of this site, All commercial business promotion is forbidden without permission from the administrators.
 
 
Those in category one......Please read.......If you wish to sell something here on MSW, please read and follow the rules given. We're not, by nature, a suspicious bunch. But over the years here and in other forums, people with something to sell have come in and offered various and sundry items. Not all have been honest. So please, follow these guidelines so that everyone has a pleasant experience.  You must have been a member that has 25 posts before you can post a topic in this forum.   
 
1) Post some pictures of the item.
2) Offer to give your phone number via PM.
3) Offer Paypal or some other secure transaction method.
4) Provide a price (given the different currencies, put the price in your currency).
5) Be sure to post your real name, location by city and country.
6) Do not post personal data such as addresses, emails, etc.  You will probably get spammed, etc. as this forum can be read by anyone including miscreants. 
 
Lastly, expect questions and do answer them.

If a hatch is to be displayed open on a period ship how were the hatch cover sections stowed and how was lifting tackle arranged?
Any ideas gratefully received.
 
Mike.
 
 

Hi Mike, I am building the AL kit and have found it to be pretty good. Couple issues: 1. The directions are sketchy. For example it will say "plank the hull". If you are a newbie like me, that encompasses 3 months work and a lot of help from Internet sources to do it correctly. 2. The nails provided are not brass, they are iron so will rust. I used bamboo trenails that mimic the ship and are to scale. 3. The plans and a few of the parts are not historically accurate, but using the Lavery book and other source material like the Admiralty plans you can work around it. 4. The cost of the kit is variable as it lists for $800, but I ebayed it for $450. I think I have a newer kit as it has a cd of the plans in it that others have not mentioned in their blogs in MSW 1.0 before it died. Feel free to message me if you'd like more info

For past and present HMS Pickle builders.
 
My wife, Carole, visited Madron church near Penzance in Cornwall recently and came across these images. I imagine this information is already common knowledge but just in case it isn't...........
 
Photography was difficult in the church hence the rather poor quality of the images.

For past and present HMS Pickle builders.
 
My wife, Carole, visited Madron church near Penzance in Cornwall recently and came across these images. I imagine this information is already common knowledge but just in case it isn't...........
 
Photography was difficult in the church hence the rather poor quality of the images.

Add me to the list of those on their second read.
 
I wonder if others, like me, have found the second reading more enjoyable than the first?
I am finding more detail than before and being in no hurry to turn the page I can dwell on any aspect of a story that takes my fancy.
 
The canon has been my constant companion for the last two years and I cannot imagine I shall ever tire of it.
 
I give you joy,
 
Mike.

There would appear to be a new naval battle going on here!

Thanks Kip,
 
I think my mind is made up now and i will opt for the Panart model as discussed. I am away from home for a couple of weeks from tomorrow and will know for sure when I return.
 
My thanks to you, and all others who responded, for your helpful suggestions.
 
Mike.

Someone might find this useful
 
http://www.animatedknots.com/knotlist.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com
 

There is at least one Dutch internetshop who has (part of) the MS-kits in their shop.
http://www.modelbouwdekombuis.nl/
 
Perhaps that lowers the transport-costs? Not sure whether they do UK deliveries
They take paypal as method of payment
 
Jan

Thank you Sarah,
 
I take your point re Model Slipway shipping costs and I will try to find a cheaper method.
 
Thank you, both of you, for your advice. I will be  away from home for most of the next 30 days but will mull it over and decide when i return. 
 
Mike.

I can't speak to the historical accuracy but I would think the Model Shipways Pinnacle would fit the bill:
 
http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS1458
 
Although if you are willing to try a 1:50 scale then I would go for the longboat since you get Chuck's amazing instructions with it:
 
http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS1457
 
Just a couple ideas.  I'm sure others will chime in with some options for you.  Good luck!

Hi Bob,
 
The templates are card stock.
 
IPA is Isopropyl Alchohol. You have given me an idea though. If we combine your !PA with mine then when mine is curing the cock up yours can be soothing the fevered brow. Recipe for success........or another cock up.
 
Mike.

Mike, when you get your burnishing tool don't just think of it for use on the scrapers. Yes, you should use it to put a 'hook' on the edge of the scrapers and do that from time to time, but also use it to hone a sharp edge like chisels, etc. I have used the same straight scraper for more than thirty years building furniture and it is still going strong  
The main difference is that with cutting tools you don't want to have a 'hook'. So you have to hold it almost parallel with the edge you are honing.

Look for LEDs with integral resistors, available in both 5v and 12v flavours, and save yourselves some work.

I think that, for loading, the individual hatch would be removed and stacked to the side.  It seems reasonable that some form of lift (probably not the right term) would be rigged from the mast forward of the hatch to lift and lower the barrels, crates and sundries into the hold.  I need to do a bit of digging to see what the layout on the Surprise was to see if that makes sense for loading barrels into the magazine.See the plate from Steel's The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, 1794 below for an example.