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tkay11

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About tkay11

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    Kentish Town, London, UK

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  1.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: 33' Royal/Admiral's Barge by James H – FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:48 scale - 3D-printed
  2.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: HM Schooner Ballahoo by georgeband - Caldercraft - Haddock drawings
  3. tkay11
    I'd agree with Phil. Do whatever you think best serves the ship you are building. Your logic is good. Have a good holiday! Tony
  4.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: HM Schooner Ballahoo by georgeband - Caldercraft - Haddock drawings
  5.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: HM Schooner Ballahoo by georgeband - Caldercraft - Haddock drawings
  6. tkay11
    I am sure that the more knowledgeable in the forum will have lots to say about this, but I thought I'd throw in Boudriot's instructions for the shrouds on the Jacinthe schooner of 1825. It does seem to say that all the shrouds were served as far as the catharpins. The measurements are in mm for the scale of the model at 1:48. "After fitting the softwood bolsters to the trestletrees the shrouds are got overhead in the following order for the foremast. The first eye has two short legs forming the fore winding-tackle pendants . The second has two legs , and forms the aftermost shrouds to port and tarboard. The third forms the remaining two shroud on the port ide. and the fourth the last two to starboard. In the case of the mainmast the order is as follows: first pair, pendants of the main winding-tackles; second pair, starboard hroud ; third pair, shrouds on the port side. The Ø of the deadeye is 270 (10") , Ø of the laniards 22. Winding tackle: fall Ø22 , blocks (upper blocks treble, lower blocks* double) 217 long (8"). The eyes of the shrouds and tackle-pendants are served with spun-yarn down as far as the catharpins. Ratlings Ø 8." Tony
  7.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: Research challenges
  8.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: HM Schooner Ballahoo by georgeband - Caldercraft - Haddock drawings
  9.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
  10.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: HM Schooner Ballahoo by georgeband - Caldercraft - Haddock drawings
  11. tkay11
    Very neat, George. I like the use of the laminated paper. Tony
  12.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: HM Schooner Ballahoo by georgeband - Caldercraft - Haddock drawings
  13.    Wishmaster reacted to a post in a topic: Allège d’Arles 1833 by tkay11 – FINISHED - scale 1:100 - POB - from Ancre plans by F. Fissore
  14.    Wishmaster reacted to a post in a topic: Allège d’Arles 1833 by tkay11 – FINISHED - scale 1:100 - POB - from Ancre plans by F. Fissore
  15.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: SS Blagoev ex-Songa 1921 by Valeriy V - FINISHED - scale 1:100 - Soviet Union
  16.    FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: SS Blagoev ex-Songa 1921 by Valeriy V - FINISHED - scale 1:100 - Soviet Union
  17.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Table-top drill press recommendations (Proxxon, Micro-Mark, others) or milling machine
  18.    No Idea reacted to a post in a topic: Table-top drill press recommendations (Proxxon, Micro-Mark, others) or milling machine
  19.    Mike Y reacted to a post in a topic: Table-top drill press recommendations (Proxxon, Micro-Mark, others) or milling machine
  20.    thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic: Table-top drill press recommendations (Proxxon, Micro-Mark, others) or milling machine
  21.    palmerit reacted to a post in a topic: Table-top drill press recommendations (Proxxon, Micro-Mark, others) or milling machine
  22. tkay11
    I bought a refurbished Proxxon MF70 from Axminster at a great price and used it with aProxxon x-y table I had bought for a Proxxon MB140 drill stand. Although people have said that the mill is inefficient at drilling, I have found it so good at drilling that I now use it exclusively for drilling as well as milling. It is just a little slower, but that doesn't bother me. It is very accurate with the correct adjustments. My tungsten carbide drill bits have never broken with it when I use it as a drill. I had to adjust the MB140 to mill accurately with a finer height adjustment (see here on MSW) but could only use it as a mill with great care, which led me to the MF70. It's a great tool, much loved by European and other ship modellers with wonderful results. It is also much modded to include CNC, change of motor etc. I won't go that far as it is entirely satisfactory for my use. In fact I am such a poor modeller compared to the masters who use it that I will never use it to its full capabilities. I will never blame my tools for shoddy workmanship! It is certainly much less costly than the bigger mills and has lasted me several years so far. Anyway, everyone has their own requirements and I just thought to slip in my experience. Enjoy and master whatever your choice! Tony
  23. tkay11 started following Brandenburg State Yacht 1679 by PvG Aussie - FINISHED - Scale 1/200 , SS Blagoev ex-Songa 1921 by Valeriy V - FINISHED - scale 1:100 - Soviet Union , Lancha Chilota by JacquesCousteau – Scale 1:32 – Chilean Coasting Sloop and 4 others
  24. tkay11
    Wonderful and beautiful. Lovely to see such beauty and craftmanship combined. Thanks Tony
  25. tkay11
    This is a really nice technique, Wefalck. Could easily be applied to wooden bases, but I'm intrigued by the machining of the acrylic. Thanks very much. Tony
  26. tkay11
    Very nice and neat, George. I love those Seahorse blocks, and have switched to using them. Excellent for 1:96. Tony
  27. tkay11
    I remember the discussions about the windlass for the Sherbourne. In its case the drawings did show a windlass. But that of course was much earlier (1763) than yours. Tony
  28. tkay11
    Looking forward to the illustrations and the rest of the guide. Great idea. Thanks Tony
  29. tkay11
    Have you used <ancre.edition@gmail.com>? Tony
  30. tkay11
    I alo thoroughly recommend the Sherbourne. There are several detailed builds on this forum, going back to 2012, some of which go into the modifications that might be made based on the original National Maritime Museum. It was my first model and one which, after a lot of interactions with other members of the forum (especially @Gregor and @Stockholm tar), I made a lot of alterations and ended up making many of the parts for myself. After that I quickly went to building directly from plans - something which opened up a whole new area of satisfaction. This forum is a wonderful place to provide help every step of the way, and a great many modelers of cutters with detailed advice. Cutters are a very good introduction to form, function and rigging. Just ask whenever you are stuck. Tony
  31. tkay11
    @GregorThanks, Gregor. Yes indeed, that whole experience was very pleasurable and productive. I often think back to it. So I really look forward to your new build log. I also look forward to your rigging plans for the Topaze whenever you get to it. There are some problems with the rigging diagrams in Boudriot's book on the Jacinthe, notably the rigging of the gaff throat and peak halyards, so it will be nice to see what you make of them. I have just started the rigging for my own Jacinthe and have been working out my own solutions using Marquardt's book on Rigs and Rigging. Tony
  32. tkay11
    Aaah! Thanks @davyboy!
  33. tkay11
    Thanks, @Kevin. All I get from the link is: Was habe ich da im Februar nur geschrieben: Knie als Rohlinge ausgesägt... Immerhin, sie sind angepasst und eingesetzt: IMG_0545.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) IMG_0543.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) IMG_0542.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) Und noch etwas Abendstimmung: IMG_0547.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) Bis bald, LG Gregor It may be that I have to join the forum, or something other that blocks the images for me in the UK. Tony
  34. tkay11
    Sorry, @Gregor, but the images on the German site seem to be no longer available. Tony

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