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tkay11

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About tkay11

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    Kentish Town, London, UK

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  1.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: Albatros by Dr PR - Mantua - Scale 1:48 - Revenue Cutter kitbash about 1815
  2.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: Albatros by Dr PR - Mantua - Scale 1:48 - Revenue Cutter kitbash about 1815
  3.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: Help with depicting extra line on bitts
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  5.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: Help with depicting extra line on bitts
  6.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: methods for serving a thin rope
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  8.    tkay11 reacted to a post in a topic: Le Pourquoi-Pas? 1907 by Greg Davis - FINISHED - Constructo - 1:80 Scale - i.e., Why Not?
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  11.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Windlass on 1815 Revenue cutter
  12. tkay11
    Very nice and neat, George. I love those Seahorse blocks, and have switched to using them. Excellent for 1:96. Tony
  13. tkay11
    I remember the discussions about the windlass for the Sherbourne. In its case the drawings did show a windlass. But that of course was much earlier (1763) than yours. Tony
  14. tkay11 started following Blocks: wood, card or 3D resin? , MV Mountwood by MikeBerk - FINISHED , Building Small-Scale Clinker Boats and 3 others
  15.    Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic: Building Small-Scale Clinker Boats
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  20. tkay11
    Looking forward to the illustrations and the rest of the guide. Great idea. Thanks Tony
  21.    daHeld73 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Pandora 1779 in 3D
  22.    daHeld73 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Pandora 1779 in 3D
  23.    daHeld73 reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Pandora (1779) CAD build log
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  25. tkay11
    Have you used <ancre.edition@gmail.com>? Tony
  26. tkay11
    I alo thoroughly recommend the Sherbourne. There are several detailed builds on this forum, going back to 2012, some of which go into the modifications that might be made based on the original National Maritime Museum. It was my first model and one which, after a lot of interactions with other members of the forum (especially @Gregor and @Stockholm tar), I made a lot of alterations and ended up making many of the parts for myself. After that I quickly went to building directly from plans - something which opened up a whole new area of satisfaction. This forum is a wonderful place to provide help every step of the way, and a great many modelers of cutters with detailed advice. Cutters are a very good introduction to form, function and rigging. Just ask whenever you are stuck. Tony
  27. tkay11
    @GregorThanks, Gregor. Yes indeed, that whole experience was very pleasurable and productive. I often think back to it. So I really look forward to your new build log. I also look forward to your rigging plans for the Topaze whenever you get to it. There are some problems with the rigging diagrams in Boudriot's book on the Jacinthe, notably the rigging of the gaff throat and peak halyards, so it will be nice to see what you make of them. I have just started the rigging for my own Jacinthe and have been working out my own solutions using Marquardt's book on Rigs and Rigging. Tony
  28. tkay11
    Aaah! Thanks @davyboy!
  29. tkay11
    Thanks, @Kevin. All I get from the link is: Was habe ich da im Februar nur geschrieben: Knie als Rohlinge ausgesägt... Immerhin, sie sind angepasst und eingesetzt: IMG_0545.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) IMG_0543.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) IMG_0542.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) Und noch etwas Abendstimmung: IMG_0547.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) Bis bald, LG Gregor It may be that I have to join the forum, or something other that blocks the images for me in the UK. Tony
  30. tkay11
    Sorry, @Gregor, but the images on the German site seem to be no longer available. Tony
  31. tkay11
    That’s really excellent, George. Thanks very much for the diligent and accurate work! Very helpful indeed. I’m just getting my head round stropping the 2mm (1.8mm) blocks; the grooves are a bit shallow to prevent slipping but they are correct and consistent in size, and as it is quite possible to strop them I prefer them to my own rather rough attempts. All the same I appreciate and agree with the comments about being thoughtful concerning what is pleasing for each modeller. I’m not a fanatic about accuracy in size, but having consistency is pleasing. Tony
  32. tkay11
    That's very useful, George. Thanks. Could you provide the Seahorse 3mm block sizes? Tony
  33. tkay11
    Just to give measurements of the 2mm blocks, as near as I can with these fiddly things: Height - 1.83mm Width - 1.4mm Thick - 0.8mm Sheave holes - 0.4mm Ø If I take block height as 12 x rope diameter, this would be suitable for 1.83/12 = 0.153mm Ø rope, which would be the equivalent of 15.3mm Ø rope when at a scale of 1:100. Similarly, a rope size of 0.4mm Ø would need a block 4.8mm high. It would be interesting to know if others agree with these calculations, and, if they have the measurements of other blocks from Seahorse, to know what those are. Cheers Tony
  34. tkay11
    I've just received my order for 2mm blocks from Seahorse Poland. I have to agree with George and others that they are excellent. I am amazed at the detail at this small scale and I can't imagine that improving the detail with a new machine would be worth it. I just had to wait a bit for our slow customs in the UK. Tony
  35. tkay11
    I'll second the request for cleats. I find making them at 4x1 mm much trickier than 2mm blocks. But I admit it could be my finishing skills! Tony
  36. tkay11
    Can you provide a link for the Seahorse 3D printed blocks? I tried an online search but just came up with models of seahorses! Tony

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