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tkay11

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About tkay11

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    Kentish Town, London, UK

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  1. I bought a refurbished Proxxon MF70 from Axminster at a great price and used it with aProxxon x-y table I had bought for a Proxxon MB140 drill stand. Although people have said that the mill is inefficient at drilling, I have found it so good at drilling that I now use it exclusively for drilling as well as milling. It is just a little slower, but that doesn't bother me. It is very accurate with the correct adjustments. My tungsten carbide drill bits have never broken with it when I use it as a drill. I had to adjust the MB140 to mill accurately with a finer height adjustment (see here on MSW) but could only use it as a mill with great care, which led me to the MF70. It's a great tool, much loved by European and other ship modellers with wonderful results. It is also much modded to include CNC, change of motor etc. I won't go that far as it is entirely satisfactory for my use. In fact I am such a poor modeller compared to the masters who use it that I will never use it to its full capabilities. I will never blame my tools for shoddy workmanship! It is certainly much less costly than the bigger mills and has lasted me several years so far. Anyway, everyone has their own requirements and I just thought to slip in my experience. Enjoy and master whatever your choice! Tony
  2. Wonderful and beautiful. Lovely to see such beauty and craftmanship combined. Thanks Tony
  3. This is a really nice technique, Wefalck. Could easily be applied to wooden bases, but I'm intrigued by the machining of the acrylic. Thanks very much. Tony
  4. Very nice and neat, George. I love those Seahorse blocks, and have switched to using them. Excellent for 1:96. Tony
  5. I remember the discussions about the windlass for the Sherbourne. In its case the drawings did show a windlass. But that of course was much earlier (1763) than yours. Tony
  6. Looking forward to the illustrations and the rest of the guide. Great idea. Thanks Tony
  7. I alo thoroughly recommend the Sherbourne. There are several detailed builds on this forum, going back to 2012, some of which go into the modifications that might be made based on the original National Maritime Museum. It was my first model and one which, after a lot of interactions with other members of the forum (especially @Gregor and @Stockholm tar), I made a lot of alterations and ended up making many of the parts for myself. After that I quickly went to building directly from plans - something which opened up a whole new area of satisfaction. This forum is a wonderful place to provide help every step of the way, and a great many modelers of cutters with detailed advice. Cutters are a very good introduction to form, function and rigging. Just ask whenever you are stuck. Tony
  8. @GregorThanks, Gregor. Yes indeed, that whole experience was very pleasurable and productive. I often think back to it. So I really look forward to your new build log. I also look forward to your rigging plans for the Topaze whenever you get to it. There are some problems with the rigging diagrams in Boudriot's book on the Jacinthe, notably the rigging of the gaff throat and peak halyards, so it will be nice to see what you make of them. I have just started the rigging for my own Jacinthe and have been working out my own solutions using Marquardt's book on Rigs and Rigging. Tony
  9. Thanks, @Kevin. All I get from the link is: Was habe ich da im Februar nur geschrieben: Knie als Rohlinge ausgesägt... Immerhin, sie sind angepasst und eingesetzt: IMG_0545.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) IMG_0543.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) IMG_0542.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) Und noch etwas Abendstimmung: IMG_0547.jpeg - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte) Bis bald, LG Gregor It may be that I have to join the forum, or something other that blocks the images for me in the UK. Tony
  10. Sorry, @Gregor, but the images on the German site seem to be no longer available. Tony
  11. That’s really excellent, George. Thanks very much for the diligent and accurate work! Very helpful indeed. I’m just getting my head round stropping the 2mm (1.8mm) blocks; the grooves are a bit shallow to prevent slipping but they are correct and consistent in size, and as it is quite possible to strop them I prefer them to my own rather rough attempts. All the same I appreciate and agree with the comments about being thoughtful concerning what is pleasing for each modeller. I’m not a fanatic about accuracy in size, but having consistency is pleasing. Tony
  12. That's very useful, George. Thanks. Could you provide the Seahorse 3mm block sizes? Tony
  13. Just to give measurements of the 2mm blocks, as near as I can with these fiddly things: Height - 1.83mm Width - 1.4mm Thick - 0.8mm Sheave holes - 0.4mm Ø If I take block height as 12 x rope diameter, this would be suitable for 1.83/12 = 0.153mm Ø rope, which would be the equivalent of 15.3mm Ø rope when at a scale of 1:100. Similarly, a rope size of 0.4mm Ø would need a block 4.8mm high. It would be interesting to know if others agree with these calculations, and, if they have the measurements of other blocks from Seahorse, to know what those are. Cheers Tony
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