Trussben
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Everything posted by Trussben
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I see your from Sequim woodartist? its been a several years since I was last over that way, We almost bought a house on Bell Hill at the time, The Oasis bar still open? -
Yes I certainly did, glue the bulkheads and maybe spacers between them all in place before going near it with sandpaper, you will do that when you "fair" them roughly before adding the gunport cills.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Completed Chapter 7 with the completion of the Chain pumps and their associated cranks. I won’t install the elm tree pumps until much later as I’m bound to knock them off. Just a little bit of sanding to do on the QD beams and knees to flatten them down for their margin planks and then to install the QD carlings.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Nice Progress.
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Thanks for all the likes and nice comments. I’m making good progress on the QD beams and knees, all the way down to where I now have to start fitting the chain pumps in place. The pumps were built as per the instructions without much issue along with the Capstans, columns, Main Jeer Bitts and Gallows. Lets see how this final part of chapter 7 goes!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Looks great Chuck, I think at this larger scale the rigging doesn’t look “too much” as it sometimes does on the smaller scales.
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Thanks Chuck You make it easier with your designs and parts.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Hi Allen just caught up on your log, did you complete getting your hawse holes to size? on my Pegasus I got a small drill though without any breakout/splits in the wood and then I switched to Taper Pin reamers, I think I had to use 3 or 4 in overlapping and increasing size to get to final dimension. instead of cutting the wood, the reamers basically file the holes larger so much less chance of tear out or splitting. ben
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Coming along Very nicely!
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Completed the Aft Bulkhead and installed the QD beams behind it. You can see I used the laser cut door handles from Chuck, I think they look much nicer than the normal knobs. Now on to the next Bulkhead. ben
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Work has restarted on Chapter 7, all of the beam positions were checked again and numbered 1-30, #25 was permantly installed and I have started adjusting the bulkheads and doors into position, I really happy to be back building again. ben
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Well the move was completed after our new home was built on Oak Island. The new model workshop/office is far smaller than my previous one at only 13x13 but I’m using shelving and other things to maximize space which is ongoing. Winchelsea is now waiting for me to start Chapter 7 on the Quarter Deck hopefully in the next couple of weeks as soon as I find all the parts!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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You can also get large plans printed and shipped to you online, on paper or mylar if needed. https://blueprintsprinting.com/account/
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Long drive from OKI
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So the move is completed, I'm working on getting my new workshop together - BOTH Pegasus and Winnie survived the move with no apparent damage ( better result than my last move ).
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I love your design process for those Lockers and rudder trunk, I have to remember that when I do those for Pegasus.
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Very nice touches Chuck.
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Looks awesome Chuck.
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Chapter 1 looks awesome Chuck - really looking forward to this model.
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As for your question According to "Steel" and the "Shipbuilders repository" table of scantlings, a 32gun frigate of the time would have had 11 1/2" wide framing, with a room and space of 27 3/4" So you would have a line of treenails in a row with a gap between them of just under 2.5" ( 11.5 + 11.5 + 2.375 + 2.375 = 27.75 ). On my cutaway section on my Winnie I simplified that to 11" frames with 3" gaps inbetween. Also if you look on the Plans - Chuck showed a section midships above the wales with a treenail pattern that you could just copy. Hope that helps - that would be a lot of treenails to make!
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