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Everything posted by Trussben
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ancre Le Gros Ventre by ChrisLBren - 1/36
Trussben replied to ChrisLBren's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice progress Chris! -
- 889 replies
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Hi All, I was having a lot of issues revolving around the QD Transom piece that I have now figured out and thought I would share with other SWAN-TFFM builders, not knowing if this has been recognized before. On page 11 of TFFM-Vol #2, there is a pattern supplied in 1:48 scale for you to use to cut out your blank with, however it appears it is not the correct size!! Let me explain that I tried using this pattern and kept finding it far to wide compared to my own Pegasus aft framing and I was starting to worry until I decided to check the pattern's width as compared to other drawings in TFFM. If you compare it VS the "elevation of counter timbers" drawing on Page #9 TFFM-Vol #2 you will find the pattern is approx 3 11/32" at its widest point but the drawing is just about 3 3/32" I decided to test it against another drawing on page #182 of TFFM-Vol #2, this shows the Quarter deck beam layouts but it also shows the QD transom on it, and this as well makes the Transom 3 3/32" wide. SO - I copied and made a template using the page #182 transom and this fit almost perfectly to my model. See some pictures below showing the difference in size and what my new one using page #182 looks like.
- 889 replies
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Hey Greg, Using a 1/16" router bit just leaves a slight round that just needs a quick swipe with a square file to remove. I would of used a 1/32" bit, but its cutting depth capabilities were not long enough to cut deep enough into 16" stock ( 15" + 1" for onion-skinning ). Ben
- 889 replies
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- 889 replies
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ancre Le Gros Ventre by ChrisLBren - 1/36
Trussben replied to ChrisLBren's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Nice to see you back building Chris! Looks like you have a good head of steam up now. I think we all know about trying to get free time for modelling. -
Very Very nice clean work there Steve.
- 99 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Now I’m trying to figure out the layout for the stern, I see that I do need to do a bit of fairing to the outer counter Timbers to make them and the inner framing a little thinner.
- 889 replies
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- 889 replies
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Looking really good, I enjoyed this part of the build.
- 840 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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No Greg, The frieze prints are in two parts, but I believe I can do a much better job second time around trying to make it as seamless as possible, and I still have the portside to start.
- 400 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Headworks on the starboard side almost complete, I think i will remove the hair bracket friezes and replace them to try to better match it all together so the seams are less visible.
- 400 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I’m sure your model will be as excellent as your scratch work is. Yes - Holly lower planking.
- 400 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thanks Rusty! Glenn - no secret, just many hours sanding it off using 120/220 sanding sticks and a few small diamond files.
- 400 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Cannons well on the way to completion, still no finish on them. The head parts were painted black ready to fit the head rails. All the windows in the stern and QGs have been installed along with their “glass”.
- 400 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Look at and use the plans to place those stern frames correctly, all the dimensions and angles can be taken right off them to do the job correctly. i.e the dimension from the level of the keel to the top of the frame height is one you can use, also the distance from one of the bulkhead top frames back to those stern frames is another. Its all right there.
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Unfortunatly I won’t be going now! Wife reminded me that we had prior plans for that week 🙄😞
- 400 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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