Overworked724

Well, my lack of experience is showing. Spent way to much time overthinking the cap rails and order of attack. Decided to stay with cedar for the caps. The bow requires finesse and some hand shaping. Went straight with Chuck’s practicum and made the long run portions just back from the bow curvature out of a straight piece of cedar stripping. Wetted and am force bending those to make installation easier. One area I’m deviating from the practicum is installing the molding after install. I’d rather not mess with that so plan to precarve the molding shape in the outer edge of the rails then sand/clean them up before installing. ...that’s my plan anyway...😂

Cedar cuts easy but if you have any cross grain it makes it difficult. I’m trying to use a #11 blade. Good grief. 🤣

Well, making cap rails are easy in principal....not in practice. The grain of the cedar is problematic in making a clean edge on the curved part near the bow. Considering I have a cheapie scroll saw that bounces all over the counter under high revs, my options for tools in making these are limited...😤 Moving on to an evening glass of wine. 🍺

Ah!!! I have a plan for my cap rail. I'll share some pics on my build log tonight. Thought occurred to me how to make the cap rail template for each side to accurately reflect the entire dimension without too much hassle. With regards to the scuppers - don't sweat it. I tried to go too complicated. Simple is best. You just don't need to puncture the hull...you can got part way through with a 1/16" drill bit and call it good. 😃

I went all the way through. My original (finger quote) "plan" was to use copper tubing to fit into the scuppers but it was just too difficult to gauge accurately. This was why I was doing this now versus after painting and planking the deck. But...best laid plans so to speak....The scuppers will be as they are...dark holes! LOL The holes which popped through the other side will be below deck level or covered by the triangular piece which makes up the waterways.

Thanks, Robin! 🤫. But it’s going to be glaring at me every time I look at it! The admiral looks at my Sultana and says, “It’s perfect!” ...and I see so many things I messed up or covered up! 🤣 I can see now...my Syren will be no different. But that’s our hobby! Gotta love it. 👍🏽

Ok. Wood ‘filler’ is forgiving. Wood not so much. 🤨 Redrilled the errant scupper on starboard side. It’s passable but not perfect...but the chainplates will obscure any imperfections. I’ll note a deviation here from the plans. There should be 5 scuppers in a row on each side starting back from the second sweep hole near the bow. I skipped the hole adjacent to the main mast because I put a butt joint directly beneath that sweep hole on both sides. Symmetry for the win...not. It would have looked like crap if I drilled the scupper in the middle of a butt joint...and the steps/rails near that sweep made putting it in off center a non-starter. Head Bang #1!!! Note to future self...read the bloody plans. Ah, well...artistic license for the win!!! Moving on...

Well...was bound to happen.... Was drilling the holes on the exterior bulkhead for the scuppers. Slipped and gouged one of the holes pretty badly. I could have clean it up best I could and lived with it...but since I screwed up I thought I would test the old adage “Wood is forgiving!”...a phrase so many of my fellow modelers are fond of saying. Surgery for the mulligan attempt went like this... ...we’ll see how my repeat attempt to drill out that scupper works before I say the adage is true. 😣 ...Going to bed.

Hi Red. You can also go down in size to a smaller gauge needle if those holes are too overwhelming. How are you making your holes? Seems like the grain is being stretched a bit when looking at your stain swatches. Could be the angle of the photo too.

Hi Red As a treenail advocate (😆) I tend to go for broke and say "Do your thang!" In truth, the use of putty filler makes me nervous. I've seen putty not press in deep enough, and upon sanding, can end up giving you gaps/pop outs/empty holes, especially after sanding. Also - it's a mess. I like the cleanness of a simply nail, once trimmed and sanded, it will not come out, and will give a warm look. It could also be I just suck as using putty for nails...I've tried, but it didn't look very good. I think a softer look is better as it keep the model from looking like it has freckles. You can accomplish this in a number of ways, but as you are using a light wood, a light stain on the nails/wood will makes the nails clearly visible but not overwhelming. Also, over time as the stain dries, the effect of the nails standing out will soften. So I lean towards #3. Whatever your choice, I find doing treenails as both monotonous and relaxing. Do a bit at a time and you get great pleasure out of the slow progression. It's almost like tying the half hitches to make the ratlins on the shrouds...they never seem to end...but each one is progress.

Absolutely wonderful job, Justin. I am not too sure if you are right about your doing the cap rails out of order. I’m actually planning to do the same...saving the cap rails for last. My intention was to prep and paint the cap rails off the ship. Once on, there would be some minor touch up work. Enjoy your Thanksgiving!!! Patrick

A dusty Sunday! Got the bulkhead tops roughly sanded and squared up. ...and finally attacked the sanding of the interior bulkheads. I find that using a rolled up fluffy bath towel twisted double and held with a couple rubber bands makes the perfect sanding cradle. My main weapon of choice in sanding is an adhesive backed 120 grit rotary sanding pad doubled up on itself. I trimmed it to shape to allow me easy access across the entire inner bulkhead. Nice thing is it’s thick and holds its shape if you bend it to give it good curvature to reach those curvy areas near the bow. ...and...more bonus pics... Moving on!!!!

Robin, your deck really sets the bar! Beautiful work.

Gotta save up for one...been eyeballing a mini lathe for months. 😣

I agree. Love mine...turns your drill press into a mini milling machine!

@Justin P. A lot of folks in my ship model club use pinvises. I could never get use to them. Think it a matter of what you are comfy with! The tree nail process is described in my Syren build log (Post #251).

Made (another) faux deck with boxwood. Same thing...just used a section of 1/32” basswood sheeting and laid out some planks using pencil to simulate caulking. No butt joints this time, just some trunnels (cedar) for effect. After I cut the piece down to slide easily (but snugly) into the second deck area...I added a dollop of natural stain to bring out the trunnels and the color. To be honest...the cedar deck (right) is still pretty damned nice. But I do like the butterscotch hue and clearly defined round shape of the trunnels of the boxwood deck (left). I’m going with boxwood this time. But it’s nice to have a backup using cedar and that wood is always available (So thankful Chuck’s model company Syren always keeps stock!) Moving on...

What was the process? They look great!!!

Took a break from the build to make a few decisions. Decided that now that I have some nice Swiss pear wood to attempt my deck furniture, I decided to rethink the wood for the deck. I was going to use cedar, but really think The contrast would be a bit stark. A Swiss pear deck would look sweet, but really want to save it for other things. Since the deck gets brutalized a lot, I’ve decided to got with boxwood which is harder than cedar. I won’t even consider basswood...the crap I got in the kit made it to the firewood scrap bucket...it’s just waiting it’s turn to burn. I have a stash of boxwood I have never used before....so what the hell. I went ahead and calculated out the rough square area of the deck (overestimating by about 20% since I figured the area as if the deck were rectangular) and milled my 1/8” wide (0.4mm thick) boxwood deck planks. I think I should have enough. While I was doing that, I also made a little ‘plank edge jig’ to hold the planks when I need to clean up the edges or use pencil simulate deck caulking without smudging up other areas of the plank. I’m really just procrastinating. I needed a break from sanding...😣.

Looking good! I think you’ll find the micro-engraver I use is ideal. It’s not cordless, but that’s really not an issue. It’s light, thin, and very easy to adjust speed. I use it for everything. 👍🏽 The one I use also works with Dremel collets so you can adjust the engraver to fit even the tiniest drill bit. If you don’t have a collet assortment, you can order them on amazon for like 6$. Using the engraver with a mini drill bit will give you clean holes, but it will cut wood like butter...so you need to practice so you don’t pierce a bulkhead wall!!! 🤣

Well...COVID shutdown #2 is now in progress in Illinois. I'll refrain from political commentary or opinions on the matter, as my ship building hobby and the modeling community are truly an escape from real life! I'll just say that I pray you all stay sane, healthy, and happy during the Holidays - and that we all find 2021 to be a year where we can stand outside in the sun and feel normal once again. I think it's amazing how many build logs are helping me make decisions as I (very slowly) progress. I believe me and @Justin P. are at about the same stage in our builds. Good on you, Mate - your build is looking brilliant! The build logs from other Syren modelers - @NovaStorm @WalrusGuy @niwotwill @abelson @Gahm are continual sources of information and inspiration! As for me, I'm enjoying and learning and relearning from new Syren builds like @Redshadowrider & @Bill Gormley. I'd like to personally thank you all for your continual posts...they really are the fuel that helps keep the motor of a new modeler going. Keep up the great work and remember, it's marathon....not a sprint. Text update only. Completed the interior bulkhead planking. The sanding part is now in front of me to clean up the interior prior to painting....and I'm trying to think happy thoughts...like never having to sand again! But as I start the clean up work on the interior bulkheads, I'm thinking about the margin plank, nibbing/joggling the deck planks, the cap rails, the stern davits, the waterways along with the scuppers and haws holes for the anchor cables. Funny...the Admiral says I forget myself when I'm in the shipyard...and I do. My mind just gets filled with too many little side projects at are a ship model. LOL - what a great hobby! Moving on - with one small note ==> The fixed blocks are now locked into the bulkheads and I am very very happy with the additional time spent to make them! One tiny success...I'll take it. Moving on...damn the torpedoes!

@niwotwill Thanks, Will! Your recent difficulty made me reassess my decking plan to ensure my measurement wasn’t off!!!

Many people use a pin vise for drilling - I use a handheld rotary (engraving) tool (my build log post #71). I don't think I've ever used a pin vise. The way I make trunnel holes is using Tamiya tape to make a solid edge (line) to mark where I want to holes to line up. Then I use a pin which is mounted in a dowel as an awl to premark the spot for the drill. Then I stick in my micro drill bit and drill away. Pretty relaxing drilling the holes... Either way - I think your build is looking great!

I do the same....run it along the edge. The line is still there...the tung oil will make it pop!

@Justin P. sure thing. No promises! I’m spitballing here! 🤣 I think I got my stash of plywood at Hobby Lobby or some other kraft shop...but they do sell it on Amazon. 1/64” birch sheets, Midwest Products 5240. It‘s a bit pricey...but a 12” x 24” sheet would be way more than enough to cover the deck.