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Everything posted by Overworked724
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Simply beautiful! You really set the bar!
- 949 replies
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- syren
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Beautiful work! I’m amazed you were able to sand the shell so thin. I was terrified of going through!
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- syren
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Tried applying and sanding some wipe on poly (sanding between 3 coats) to assess how well the self adhesive copper plates adhere to the wood. Works really well. Very smooth surface. Like a baby’s butt. 🤣 Used a 1/2” dowel with double sided adhesive scotch tap as my ‘peeling’ foundation. Comes of fairly clean and uncurled. Tried a simple swatch with blank plates. You can see the plate where I sort of ‘peeled’ the plate away From the backing by hand (circled in yellow). The crimping of the foil happens quick and can’t be undone. Nice thing is you can remove the paper backing and reuse.
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Beautiful detail, Dave! Crisp work. Hope I can come close once I get to my own fittings and deck furniture!!!
- 389 replies
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- bluenose
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Been working trying to setup a safe painting hood...been fun. The windows don't open vertically, they open horizontally, so trying to put in an exhaust outlet is a bit of a bugbear. Think I have a workaround though. In the interim, I've decided to try to get my airbrushes working...which will take time. I'm going to try and be a bit more careful on the trim work here...as I simply don't trust myself with black paint. Took a break and cut the remaining deck planks, false keel, and waterways sections (1/16" square strips - need to file them still) from boxwood. I still need to make my margin planks as well, but I have a nice paper template to aid me in my endeavors on that arena..might attack them this week. The laser cut basswood margin planks (bow sections) that came with the kit don't fit cleanly and even if they did I couldn't use them as they would not match the deck planking. I am thinking to coat the underside (up to the water line) with a few coats of wipe on poly to seal the wood and give good purchase for the adhesive copper plates. After some fine sanding, the underside should be ready for the coppering - and I'd prefer do that than paint anything more than I absolutely have to!!!! I'll try this off the ship with some test basswood first - but have a pretty good feeling this will work ok. So that will be next on the agenda while I experiment with the painting hood and some airbrush techniques. Once the poly is on, I'll be ready to start painting the exterior areas black - including the cap rails which I will install last. I'll need to do some wood filling/sanding and touch up painting to clean up the caps after the install. Then the deck.... I've decided that I will put my deck in before the coppering. I'm not certain it matters - but I can take breaks during the deck to bang out (literally) my plates over the holiday break and will hopefully be ready to start coppering shortly after I've completed tree nailing the deck....which at the rate I'm going should be sometime in 2022... That's the plan anyway!
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No real reason other than I wanted to challenge myself a bit. It's not fully historically accurate as I did double on the butt joints only - and did single every where else! It's a bit more work...but I liked the effect. 😃
- 369 replies
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- Syren
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I actually liked doing the nails. Once you have all the holes drilled, it’s sort of a mindless repetitive task that’s oddly relaxing. I recently discovered audio books and I just camped in my shipyard and listened to books. Hours passed...felt like minutes. 🤣
- 369 replies
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- Syren
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Still looking pretty good. Remember that when you have the door on the outside and all the fittings and cannon set in on the interior, the minor asymmetry probably won’t be that noticeable. You are moving right along!!! You’ll pass me soon!
- 369 replies
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- Syren
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That looks familiar! 😃 It gets quicker. I ended up pressing like 7 or 8 blocks then cutting off the ends for the nails. It went quick. I also found tapping them dislodged many of the nails and they just fell out. Make sure you 'flatten' the end of the push pin so you don't fray one end of the nail. You can just sand down the point. For glue I diluted white Elmer's PVA glue with water (1 glue : 2 water)...then I just gripped the nail with a flat tweezers, dipped in the end into the glue, and slid it into the hole...used cuticle trimmers to get a nice flush cut when I went to trim the nails off. Looking good! Works well with basswood too. But I can't take credit...this was another modeler's idea...I just used it. I'm sure your results will be fantastic!
- 369 replies
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- Syren
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Good question @Justin P.! If you look at my build log post #131 I describe what I did to make a fine scraper. The Dodeco carbon discs are perfect for cutting metal. You can trim up a thousand scrapers of various patterns and sizes and it take a few seconds. You can use steel scraper edges or a flat razor blade to make one. Hope that helps!
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