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Overworked724

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Everything posted by Overworked724

  1. Bloody nice work for your first try, Robin. From what I've seen, carving the reliefs is delicate work...I think it adds a ton of warmth and realism to the model. SOOOO much better than the brittania pieces.
  2. Thank you, Thomas! (But I have yet to attack the black stuff. 😣). Step by step!!!
  3. Hi Will - what method are you referring to? Is there a post # and build log you are referring?
  4. Spent some time finishing up painting the upper edges of the gun port sills. No more red paint for a while thank the Lord. Got the rough prep of the bow margin planks done. Not a bad first try. Moving on...
  5. Totally true. If not for the poor planking job and tons of obvious wood filler, I would forego the coppering. But, as I’ve never done it before, I figure it’s a great learning opportunity. 👍🏽😊
  6. Right!? Too bad I’m going to stick copper all over it. 😂 I just wanted to ensure I had the smoothest foundation before putting on the plates.
  7. Well, some slow progress between meetings. I did manage to put a couple coats of wipe on poly on the ship. I mean I know the surface isn’t perfectly smooth, but a couple light coats of poly with sanding in between really smoothed out the surface. 👍🏽 Moving on....slowly...
  8. Beautiful work! I’m amazed you were able to sand the shell so thin. I was terrified of going through!
  9. Well, I tried that but couldn’t find a clean way of doing it without crimping the foil. I saw the video a few times which I posted earlier and tried it that way. But I always ended up crimping the trailing corner as I peeled the paper. Guess it’s all in the technique. 🤔
  10. Tried applying and sanding some wipe on poly (sanding between 3 coats) to assess how well the self adhesive copper plates adhere to the wood. Works really well. Very smooth surface. Like a baby’s butt. 🤣 Used a 1/2” dowel with double sided adhesive scotch tap as my ‘peeling’ foundation. Comes of fairly clean and uncurled. Tried a simple swatch with blank plates. You can see the plate where I sort of ‘peeled’ the plate away From the backing by hand (circled in yellow). The crimping of the foil happens quick and can’t be undone. Nice thing is you can remove the paper backing and reuse.
  11. Not certain what you mean, Kurt? You mean to put on the floor? Again - I am NOT a airbrusher or a painter in general. (But I think I did a pretty good job on my makeshift airbrush hood...)
  12. Finally created my make-shift fume hood! Not a modeling pic but was fun to make. 🤣 My wife made some draught snakes to seal up the window gaps for when I actually get it set up for external exhaust. 😊More pics to follow. Moving on...👍🏽
  13. Beautiful detail, Dave! Crisp work. Hope I can come close once I get to my own fittings and deck furniture!!!
  14. Been working trying to setup a safe painting hood...been fun. The windows don't open vertically, they open horizontally, so trying to put in an exhaust outlet is a bit of a bugbear. Think I have a workaround though. In the interim, I've decided to try to get my airbrushes working...which will take time. I'm going to try and be a bit more careful on the trim work here...as I simply don't trust myself with black paint. Took a break and cut the remaining deck planks, false keel, and waterways sections (1/16" square strips - need to file them still) from boxwood. I still need to make my margin planks as well, but I have a nice paper template to aid me in my endeavors on that arena..might attack them this week. The laser cut basswood margin planks (bow sections) that came with the kit don't fit cleanly and even if they did I couldn't use them as they would not match the deck planking. I am thinking to coat the underside (up to the water line) with a few coats of wipe on poly to seal the wood and give good purchase for the adhesive copper plates. After some fine sanding, the underside should be ready for the coppering - and I'd prefer do that than paint anything more than I absolutely have to!!!! I'll try this off the ship with some test basswood first - but have a pretty good feeling this will work ok. So that will be next on the agenda while I experiment with the painting hood and some airbrush techniques. Once the poly is on, I'll be ready to start painting the exterior areas black - including the cap rails which I will install last. I'll need to do some wood filling/sanding and touch up painting to clean up the caps after the install. Then the deck.... I've decided that I will put my deck in before the coppering. I'm not certain it matters - but I can take breaks during the deck to bang out (literally) my plates over the holiday break and will hopefully be ready to start coppering shortly after I've completed tree nailing the deck....which at the rate I'm going should be sometime in 2022... That's the plan anyway!
  15. No real reason other than I wanted to challenge myself a bit. It's not fully historically accurate as I did double on the butt joints only - and did single every where else! It's a bit more work...but I liked the effect. 😃
  16. I actually liked doing the nails. Once you have all the holes drilled, it’s sort of a mindless repetitive task that’s oddly relaxing. I recently discovered audio books and I just camped in my shipyard and listened to books. Hours passed...felt like minutes. 🤣
  17. Still looking pretty good. Remember that when you have the door on the outside and all the fittings and cannon set in on the interior, the minor asymmetry probably won’t be that noticeable. You are moving right along!!! You’ll pass me soon!
  18. That looks familiar! 😃 It gets quicker. I ended up pressing like 7 or 8 blocks then cutting off the ends for the nails. It went quick. I also found tapping them dislodged many of the nails and they just fell out. Make sure you 'flatten' the end of the push pin so you don't fray one end of the nail. You can just sand down the point. For glue I diluted white Elmer's PVA glue with water (1 glue : 2 water)...then I just gripped the nail with a flat tweezers, dipped in the end into the glue, and slid it into the hole...used cuticle trimmers to get a nice flush cut when I went to trim the nails off. Looking good! Works well with basswood too. But I can't take credit...this was another modeler's idea...I just used it. I'm sure your results will be fantastic!
  19. Good question @Justin P.! If you look at my build log post #131 I describe what I did to make a fine scraper. The Dodeco carbon discs are perfect for cutting metal. You can trim up a thousand scrapers of various patterns and sizes and it take a few seconds. You can use steel scraper edges or a flat razor blade to make one. Hope that helps!
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