Overworked724

@Justin P. sure thing. No promises! I’m spitballing here! 🤣 I think I got my stash of plywood at Hobby Lobby or some other kraft shop...but they do sell it on Amazon. 1/64” birch sheets, Midwest Products 5240. It‘s a bit pricey...but a 12” x 24” sheet would be way more than enough to cover the deck.

Sanity check as a minor diversion to the tedium of the interior bulkhead planking. My plan is to lay down a false deck and use thinner wood (1/32” or 3/64”) for my planking/margin. My hope is the false deck will give me greater stability and purchase while laying down the deck as well as nibbing and joggling at the bow. Took a sample of 0.5mm birch ply and a ~3/64” cedar plank. Went ahead and glued them and measured total thickness as almost perfectly 1/16” (0.0625”). Can’t get much closer. Quite Lucky that! 👍🏽 Laid it up against the bulkhead to check distance to the sills above the deck. Relieved to see the gap between deck and sill is a comfy 1/8”. Should be sufficient room for the waterway and carronade swivel bracket without making it proud above the sill. Moving on...

Many thanks @Gahm@WalrusGuy@CPDDET!!!! Much appreciated!!!

Well. The bottom of the ship didn’t fall off! 🤣 So that’s a win. 👍🏽

It’s not an issue really. I just glued it along to top edge to lock it in place (even though I didn’t really need to...). I plan to put in a thin support deck to make it easier to do the deck planking. So I had set the fillers slightly lower than the tops of the frames initially anyway. 👍🏽

Glacial pace...good grief, I hate work but love my paychaeck. =-/ Got done with rough planking the interior port side. Realized I’d needed a slightly wider plank along top edge to cover the upward swish on stern and bow...used 7/32” plank along top edge. But still needed a shim on the bow portion. Basically I wanted to ensure that the interior wall was a bit higher that the outboard side so I can fair top of the bulkheads to level without eating into the wood of the shear strake. I am trying to ensure I get a nice level cap rail...so I'm trying to make it less difficult for when time comes to prep and lay down to cap rails. Bow... You can see the very slight dip on the interior edge nearest the stem after I put in the last plank along the interior top edge. (Can you see the 'surprise'? I didn't notice until later!) Added a shim along the front top edge.... Then I sanded down with a dremel barrel sander and ensured the inner bulkhead was slightly elevated than the outer. Stern...(hey...the double block looks pretty nice) Midships...fixed blocks are slightly depressed...sanding in my future! Port side done...Overall - the rough interior planking looks ok. With some final sanding and some touch up filler, she'll be ready to paint....Good Lord willing. Plus one surprise!!! A truly WTF moment.... Sometime recently, a port side filler block near the bow 'sunk'!!! Well....s**t. =-( Just threw on some glue and continued on...the filler blocks are not my concern and I won't need them for deck planking. 😃 Moving on to the starboard side!!

I say go for it. It’s your build! But I do agree that you should make some trial nails as well as trial swatches of planks to get the rythm and work out kinks. Another thing to consider is ensuring you can reproducibly drill the trunnel holes without issue. So that’s the other half...Tamiya tape and an awl is what I used to premark the holes. But everyone needs to refine their techniques. 👍🏽

Takes forever...binge watching Netflix helps. It’s practice for coppering the hull. 🤣

Looks fantastic! PVA glue or CA to lock the rail in place?

Sure. The whole explanation is in my build log (see post #251).

Longboat looks fantastic, Will. Wouldn’t worry too much about the sills. Once you e got the carronade sleds, tackle and rigging, rope coils and whatnot....you will be lucky to see the trunnels in the deck planks! 😂 Enjoy your. Trip, shipmate!

Looking good!

I just measured using a caliper and straight edge with a drafting pencil (sharp as hell point). Once the line was drawn, I placed the plank against the edge of a wider plank of the same thickness as a backstop. I took a small metal ruler and glued 800 grit sandpaper to the back. Then I put the metal ruler along the top of both pieces lining up the edge of the rule with the cutting mark. The sandpaper keeps them from moving. Then I used a #11 blade and ran it gently down the line a few times...the lighter you press the more strokes is required but you don’t run into issues with the blade catching any cross grain and screwing up your cut. Then I just cleaned up the cut edge with 1000 grit sanding pad. Later on I managed to get an old plank clamp but I thought the above method gave me consistent results. Think there’s probably some great methods out there...but I had the same problem. Good luck!

Still pecking away at the interior bulkhead planking. Work has been distracting these past few weeks but thought I would send a couple pics. The fixed sheave blocks actually look fairly decent when viewed from the exterior of the ship. The trick is getting good clean interior planking around them after they have been set in with glue. You can see (red circles) that I’ll still need to sand down the bulkheads about 0.5mm or so after I’ve completed the planking. This will also ensure the sheave blocks are flush on both sides. Sigh....more sanding in my future. Moving on!

Is that a mini lathe?

Interesting building board! Did you make it or was it manufactured?

Looks great, Jamie! Coming along very nicely. The sanding never seems to stop, does it? 😃

A shipmate from my ship model club was liquidating some of his stock. I jumped at it...but I was on a waitlist for good unfigured Swiss Pear from Gilmer Woods. It’s rare but they are pretty good. I get boxwood from them.

Yep. It almost cycles through a 90 degree angle from vertical at the stern to mid ships then back to vertical. I used those soft plastic clothes pins a lot as well as the modified binder clips. Made it easier.

I finally got a stash of Swiss Pear wood! It’s like an early Christmas!!!! My desk furniture awaits my Christmas Holiday break!

Yes I did. If it has a ‘curl’ or upward swish at the bow, you will get crowded quickly and the planking becomes quite difficult.

I think the 0.025 rope from Syren looks great. Nice job on the long guns!

Pg 10 of my build. Great stuff. I used my patented finger tip applicator (finger) on most applications. 🤣

I put in the my blog a few pages on. Great stuff.

Awesome!!!