Overworked724

Looks like a similar ratio I used. I used Tamiya red and Tamiya desert yellow at about 5:1. You get that nice deeper reddish maroon. Like blood. Looking good!

Wally, what wood did you use for the binnacle?

I wish I’d added a bit more. You can always sand down extra meat. Something you can’t do if there is a gap. I did have a slight gap at the terminus of the stern planking where the counter begins. It made it more difficult to lock in the planks and also can lead to a misshapen area which needs wood filler and sanding. (Which mine did). I would read other logs and meditate a bit on the planking book, but in the end, I think you’ll make the best decision for your ship. She’s looking very trim! 👍🏽

Outstanding! Yep....filing the bell was a nice idea. That piece really shines!

Flat screen TV with satellite dish!!! (Kidding) brilliant work!!!!!

Toothpicks for the win! I used them on the Sultana in same way. Nice modification!!!! Looks beautiful.

Yeah...I took my time with the transom...especially when it is finally glued in place. Until you get the bulkhead planking in position and glued along the sides (after you have trimmed it to shape) it just screams, "Break me!!!". LOL Also a bit of advice is to add as much support wood between those frame as possible to increase the strength of it so you can sand it without as much fear of breakage. I actually did the same thing - assembled it off the ship and added it as a single piece when I was ready. It worked out well. Looking good!!!

Yep...taking note for future. Much much more realistic looking in terms of scale. Well done. Clean work!!!

Hey...I’m not a whelp expert, but those whelps look pretty darned good!!! 👍🏽

Thanks, Justin! Actually, I feel like I have a slow motion build! But I am really enjoying the Syren so far!

Hehe. Just kidding! 😂 Those microblades worked well for me. They take about 200 passes but it gives you a clean cut!

Oh wow...no. Do not use a powered Jig Saw!!! 😊 There are fine toothed saw blades which you can get from MicroMark and other sites which you can clamp into an exacto blade handle. Removing these sections is actually very easy if you have the smaller blades. Then finish off with fine sanding. At least that’s how I approached it. 👍🏽 https://www.micromark.com/Saw-Blade-010x40-TPI-Package-of-4

@Justin P. Outstanding! As @NovaStorm Robin said...one tricky piece done! If you have any tips or tricks you used then please post them. I’d be interested as well. We are always learning from each other. Your build looks beautiful thus far!

Nice job, Will! Those itty bitty parts can be really difficult. You really did a nice job with the detailed carving.

@Matt D Thank you! I was very happy with the end result. Four key things I learned on the transom cap rail adventure. 1. Using a ‘bending block’ to shape the cap made the job much less stressful. After I got the shape (those sharp bends are troublesome), I let it sit on my ‘transom shaping block’ for a day. Then rewet the entire strip in hot water before putting on the transom for final shaping...This step was cake as it molded to the transom shape easily, then let it dry there for a couple days. 2. 1/16” strip was just too thick. I think thinning down is almost a must (3/64” was a pretty good fit...) 3. Pins...gotta use em. Trying to align and glue the cap rail on your transom (especially a single piece cap) is simply impossible without a guide which the pins provide! A touch of filler in the tiny holes is all that’s needed after setting it in place. Pins for the win. 4. Basswood for the transom cap rail is really difficult. I tried 4x using basswood strips and each one snapped. I then switched to cedar and made 4x caps of varying thicknesses and not one snapped. Take that at face value as it’s only my experience. 😆 Notice that I’ve not painted anything yet. I figure I would attack it all at once after the inner bulkheads are finished. I’ll probably make but not install my cap rails until after I’ve put in the deck...jury is out on that decision. Moving on to inner bulkheads.....😎

I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail. Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. And....moving on!! 🇺🇸👍🏽

Ok...interesting use of duct tape on the sanding sticks! 👍🏽 That’s a keeper idea for future!

Nice job so far on the ship’s boat! 👍🏽Really clean!

The brass lettering came with the kit. Got the ultra thin birch plywood from Hobby Lobby. The boxwood trim I made myself as I am trying to get away from basswood. 😆

My first was the Sultana. The detailed practicum was invaluable...but this forum was priceless. See my build log in the links below. But remember to have fun!!! Welcome!

Working on transom cap rail. Before I start painting, wanted to figure out how I’ll mount the name plate. Decided for a simple option. Cut some really thin 0.4mm birch plywood into a strip slightly wider then the brass letter height. Paint it black. Then mounted the letters on the plywood strip. I’ll mount the top trim piece, then the name plate section, followed by the final trim piece. Although the center section is bowed outward somewhat in the pic below, the letters will not sit proud beyond the width of the boxwood trim pieces. It should look something like below... Nice thing here...once the transom is painted, mounting the trim pieces and wood strip with the name will be infinitely easier than trying to stick those tiny letters directly on the transom. 👍🏽

Not gone....just distracted by my Syren!

Uh Oh....I see a slight scratch on the 3rd board starboard of the main mast hole! I think you might need redo the entire deck! (kidding) Remind me again - is your deck made of pear or boxwood? And did you prestain it? It looks fantastic!

Exactly! I still go back and forth between my building board and keel clamp...its good to have options.

Love my keel clamp. I actually attached it to a rectangular base of 3/4" plywood. It's as solid as a rock...and I can move the entire assembly with ship attached with confidence rather than leave it clamped on the edge of the desk. Great investment.