Overworked724
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Everything posted by Overworked724
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Looks about right!!! My primary weapon was the finger clamp and old episodes of MASH while I waited for the carpenter’s glue to set. 🤣 -
Justin, I think your cap rail turned out sparkling. Tricky fit that. I think it looks splendid! Very clean build so far! Like how nicely your wales turned out, too.
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See my build. Had same problem...just went with it. 👍🏽
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You can apply tung oil after you’ve sanded. But you can add coats later after finishing too. Tung oil is versatile. 😎
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Yes...I’m a romantic.
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No...I’m not dead. Just busy. Work hitting me from all sides. Glad to be busy...wish I could afford to retire. The Admiral would love to throw me in the ‘Shipyard Brig’ and feed me under the door like the Count of Monte Christo! 🤣 But she’s happy knowing I’m in the shipyard...where all worldly stress melts away to be replaced by stresses of a different kind.... Where time stops in the shipyard as it proceeds at its normal pace outside the door. My personal little universe of impossible problems followed by brilliant solutions...of horrible failures followed by miraculous recoveries...of stupid ideas born out as ingenious discoveries... ...This royal throne of an armchair nautical historian, this sceptered workbench, this studio of majesty, this seat of Poseidon’s memory, this other Eden, this demi-paradise, this galleon built by History just for me, a bulwark against infection and the hand of worldly concerns, this little heaven, this precious bay set in the silver sea of troubles, and serves as a defensive moat for this beloved house against the envy of less happier people... My blessed plot... My earth... My realm... My...SHIPYARD!!!! (compliments to Shakespeare’s Henry II)
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Bloody Awesome!!! Seriously...I think I just peed a little in my excitement. That is simply brilliant!
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Looks like a similar ratio I used. I used Tamiya red and Tamiya desert yellow at about 5:1. You get that nice deeper reddish maroon. Like blood. Looking good!
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I wish I’d added a bit more. You can always sand down extra meat. Something you can’t do if there is a gap. I did have a slight gap at the terminus of the stern planking where the counter begins. It made it more difficult to lock in the planks and also can lead to a misshapen area which needs wood filler and sanding. (Which mine did). I would read other logs and meditate a bit on the planking book, but in the end, I think you’ll make the best decision for your ship. She’s looking very trim! 👍🏽
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Outstanding! Yep....filing the bell was a nice idea. That piece really shines!
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Flat screen TV with satellite dish!!! (Kidding) brilliant work!!!!!
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Toothpicks for the win! I used them on the Sultana in same way. Nice modification!!!! Looks beautiful.
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Yeah...I took my time with the transom...especially when it is finally glued in place. Until you get the bulkhead planking in position and glued along the sides (after you have trimmed it to shape) it just screams, "Break me!!!". LOL Also a bit of advice is to add as much support wood between those frame as possible to increase the strength of it so you can sand it without as much fear of breakage. I actually did the same thing - assembled it off the ship and added it as a single piece when I was ready. It worked out well. Looking good!!!
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Yep...taking note for future. Much much more realistic looking in terms of scale. Well done. Clean work!!!
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Hey...I’m not a whelp expert, but those whelps look pretty darned good!!! 👍🏽
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Thanks, Justin! Actually, I feel like I have a slow motion build! But I am really enjoying the Syren so far!
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Hehe. Just kidding! 😂 Those microblades worked well for me. They take about 200 passes but it gives you a clean cut!
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Oh wow...no. Do not use a powered Jig Saw!!! 😊 There are fine toothed saw blades which you can get from MicroMark and other sites which you can clamp into an exacto blade handle. Removing these sections is actually very easy if you have the smaller blades. Then finish off with fine sanding. At least that’s how I approached it. 👍🏽 https://www.micromark.com/Saw-Blade-010x40-TPI-Package-of-4
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@Justin P. Outstanding! As @NovaStorm Robin said...one tricky piece done! If you have any tips or tricks you used then please post them. I’d be interested as well. We are always learning from each other. Your build looks beautiful thus far!
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Nice job, Will! Those itty bitty parts can be really difficult. You really did a nice job with the detailed carving.
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@Matt D Thank you! I was very happy with the end result. Four key things I learned on the transom cap rail adventure. 1. Using a ‘bending block’ to shape the cap made the job much less stressful. After I got the shape (those sharp bends are troublesome), I let it sit on my ‘transom shaping block’ for a day. Then rewet the entire strip in hot water before putting on the transom for final shaping...This step was cake as it molded to the transom shape easily, then let it dry there for a couple days. 2. 1/16” strip was just too thick. I think thinning down is almost a must (3/64” was a pretty good fit...) 3. Pins...gotta use em. Trying to align and glue the cap rail on your transom (especially a single piece cap) is simply impossible without a guide which the pins provide! A touch of filler in the tiny holes is all that’s needed after setting it in place. Pins for the win. 4. Basswood for the transom cap rail is really difficult. I tried 4x using basswood strips and each one snapped. I then switched to cedar and made 4x caps of varying thicknesses and not one snapped. Take that at face value as it’s only my experience. 😆 Notice that I’ve not painted anything yet. I figure I would attack it all at once after the inner bulkheads are finished. I’ll probably make but not install my cap rails until after I’ve put in the deck...jury is out on that decision. Moving on to inner bulkheads.....😎
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I really had a tough time getting 1/16” cap rail to fit snugly around the transom. Finally decided to trim it a bit...think my cap rail was about 3/64” thick but it still looked like a good dimension for the rail. Again, using the cedar makes bending those sharper corners a bit easier. Not certain if I’ll use the same thickness for the bulkhead cap rails...we shall see. I did a single piece. Chuck’s suggestion to do the transom cap rail in sections (2 parts) seemed more difficult to me somehow as I have no background on how that is done. So I used pins in predrilled holes to center the single rail around the transom and had no major issues. I touched up the uneven edges after gluing in...then a touch of wood filler around the edges where there were some gaps, and then sanding again. And....moving on!! 🇺🇸👍🏽
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