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Ian_Grant

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  1. Ian_Grant
    As I start the bow skinning I have to use smaller pieces of ply to divide the compound curves into smaller, weird quadrilaterals and trapezoids. Spacing between framing members is also smaller so I can't fit clamps to the inside, therefore I started using small ply battens and air-nailing temporarily to the frame through the ply. I put masking tape on the battens so they wouldn't end up glued on. The first couple of pieces went ok but on the third most of the 23ga pin nails snapped when I tried to pry them back out. I've reverted to 18ga which won't snap, but could splinter bulkheads if I miss centre, sigh. Trying to shoot most of them into wales and stringers. It's not a pretty sight and it's too bad the resulting holes will be bigger than the 23ga, but I'm sure the filling/smoothing stage will hide all sins. Here's a piece I just added. It's slow going: template the next piece using clear vellum paper, bandsaw out, test fit and adjust, glue on, wait 25 minutes to remove the battens, pull any remaining 18ga brads, scrape off glue squeeze-out before it fully sets, then on to the next.
  2. Ian_Grant
    So cute! Looks like she didn't get the curly poodle fur; my wife loves Cavaliers but so far we've always had retrievers 😵. Which keep you going........we're older now so maybe a cavalier will be next.......hadn't heard of cavapoos but will ask my wife about them (she's a vet).
  3. Ian_Grant
    Glen, will you be able to cut the heads off without damaging that wonderful painting?
  4. Ian_Grant
    Or a Spitfire. (Supermarine I mean; not Triumph!) 😉
  5. Ian_Grant
    Marc has a rival!
  6. Ian_Grant
    LOL! It's 1/32" "bending plywood". It has a core and two face layers, with a preferred bending axis. A local specialist hardwood/plywood place sells it in 50" x 50" sheets, or half sheets one of which I bought. It's pretty thin, but firms up when in a bend. I plan to epoxy the inside, same as my old RC boats, which will strengthen and waterproof it. Still wondering about epoxying the outside; may depend on the weight after skinning/epoxying. Might just spar varnish the outside then sand before painting. Come to think of it may just spar varnish inside too to avoid the fumes.
  7. Ian_Grant
    Fairing completed, apart from a lingering wobble along the starboard stern bulwark which I will fix later. I added pieces of pine between bulkheads bow and stern, at deck level, before fairing. First two pieces of the ply skin glued in place, without a single cuss word 🤙. These were the easy two, wale-to-wale on the lower hull where the cross section is constant, requiring bending along only one axis. Plan is to do bow and stern in three bands: keel to wale, wale to deck level, bulwark. Horizontal seams will be covered by the outer wale, or trim pieces. Next pieces of ply midships will run from wale to outrigger bottom and contain holes for lower oars. Then I'll need to build the outriggers and a ventilation course above them. Not sure how to do that, yet. I wish now I hadn't made the keel quite so tall in section. Would have saved some weight and made more space. I expect many cuss words will be employed during bow and stern skinning.
  8. Ian_Grant
    How much does she charge?
  9. Ian_Grant
    Bill, another thing that can be done on these bulwarks is to score the missing planking lines across the blank background around the carvings. Easy to say, harder to do. 😄
  10. Ian_Grant
    Glen, you keep saying "will need to be attached inside the bottle".........it's going to be an epic insertion process!
  11. Ian_Grant
    Further on Hackney's diagram, I didn't annotate everything at the time so here is more info: 31 = eyebolt for use by Fore royal backstay 32 = eyebolt for use by main royal backstay 33 = eyebolt for use by mizzen royal backstay 34 = eyebolt for strop to single block on fore topsail yard halyard 72 = " " " " " main " " " 80 = " " " " " mizzen " " " (starboard only) Longridge has full text descriptions of all these, of course.
  12. Ian_Grant
    You might be able to do that if you rotate the ladders 90 degrees?
  13. Ian_Grant
    Good work. I'll reiterate that I really like your deck plank painting.
  14. Ian_Grant
    Longridge shows them in the big fold-out plans 6 & 7 and mentions them in the individual text descriptions of the routing of affected lines. Unfortunately he doesn't have a detailed drawing of the channels. Here's a picture from Noel Hackney's little book (much under-rated IMHO) showing deadeyes and blocks on each channel. The numbers are reference numbers for rigging lines; you can see my annotations. Hope this helps.
  15. Ian_Grant
    Same here.
  16. Ian_Grant
    My old printed instructions show the same. It does seem odd, even though you'd only have to step off to one side as you came up. Thanks Bill for raising all these issues to get answers before I ever touch my SR!! 😃
  17. Ian_Grant
    Bill, I think there is some confusion about the term "cambered". Cambered does not mean "raised above deck level", it means "having a convex surface". After Marc glued two layers of gratings together, he sanded a side-to-side curve on the top as he showed in his photo with the sanding block in the background. The grey 2nd layer is tapered to zero thickness along the side edges.
  18. Ian_Grant
    What a great production! I really enjoyed it, with a few comedic moments due to limitations of Lego parts. I never knew that about the aborted crew rescue. War is grim.
  19. Ian_Grant
    Marc, when I tried to order parts from Heller I first sent the form to their quoted email address; I got an enigmatic error message about their router not being "365" and unable to receive from "my domain". Subsequent efforts resulted in the same. I faxed it in instead and got an immediate reply followed shortly by the part in the mail. Do you have access to a fax machine? I used the one at my wife's vet clinic; only the medical field seems to still use fax. Or maybe Heller's router can connect to your "domain". After all you're in a different country than me.
  20. Ian_Grant
    I am reminded of an occasion when I went camping in my youth with a number of work buddies many years ago. After a lot of beer had been drunk it was time to light the campfire. We couldn't get the damp wood to fire up. SO,... someone poured camp fuel all over it and it was up to Paul to light it. He realized that the fumes were spreading, so his solution was to sprint at the firepit while striking the match, then leap over it, dropping the match in as he cleared it. There was an "whoomph" and a searing flame erupted from the pit and spread rapidly outward. Fortunately it stopped just short of the still-open Coleman fuel can.😬
  21. Ian_Grant
    Hull skeleton glue-up is complete. Thanks to members who posted shots of Lego used to square up bulkheads to keels! 😃 Fantastic idea and the Lego doesn't get stuck to the boat by the carpenter glue. Once bulkheads were all in I added the inner wales and bilge stringers, first using a rasp to fair the notch inner faces. Rather than hassle around with steaming or heating I laminated them - for first layer glued the notches in the ribs and used my 23ga pin nailer to fasten strip, then once dry glued on other layers using paper clamps to squeeze together. Those pins that came through the rib walls were then pulled out from the inside of the hull. The wales consist of a 3/32" cherry first strip, then pine. The stringers are all pine. When adding the first wale I found to my dismay that the strip didn't want to follow the notches I'd cut in the bulkheads at the stern; I'd maintained a constant "y" location above reference line but of course since the strip twists as it approaches the stern it wanted to curve in and up to follow the hull contours. Not news to those who plank models and I should have known better but oh well. Abandoning all pretense of finesse, I chucked a straight bit in my 1-1/4 HP router and cut new notches where I had marked. My reasoning was that the router base spanned several bulkheads so it would follow the convex hull contours, which it pretty much did. Still need to patch the unused notches. The hull was removed from the strongback to add the bilge stringers. It's now very rigid, although the reinforcing strap along the deck is still present. It and the upper portion of the midships bulwarks will be removed once the hull is skinned. I haven't quite worked out yet how to then frame in the sides above the oar outrigger. Today I got a 25" x 50" sheet of 1/32" plywood for skinning and some vellum paper to make patterns. Midships is a constant cross section so that should go fairly easy. It's only the first and last 14 or 16 inches which will be a chore probably requiring special words. 😆 The deck height is a nice straight line but somehow the elevation is 1/16" higher at the stern than at the bow. I noticed some sort of error at the bow originally but couldn't seem to pin it down. No one will know. Next: fairing everything; skinning; filling extreme bow and stern with solid. Just pushing a strip against the bulkheads they don't look too bad apart from #4 which needs a strip added along pretty much the entire port side for some reason. We'll see how it goes. Not much experience in this for a few decades.....🤪
  22. Ian_Grant
    I see I didn't complete my description of the cat stopper. It goes round the big cleat, then it too must be belayed somewhere. I used, again, the large timberhead. In practice, once the cat stopper was in place, going to sea, the cat tackle would be unrigged and stowed. I left both the tackle and the stopper on my port anchor, but I think I omitted the tackle on the starboard side; can't quite recall and that side of the case is against a wall. 😉
  23. Ian_Grant
    Bill, the SR is shaping up to be your masterpiece. Nicely done!
  24. Ian_Grant
    Hi Robert, your model is looking lovely! Can't recall which book I read it in, or perhaps it was Blue Ensign's log on the old Pete Coleman Victory site, but I used two lashings on the stock of the sheet anchor. The one on the upper arm goes down and is attached to an eyebolt on the underside of the channel. The one on the lower arm goes up and belays to a convenient timberhead. The obvious place to tie the cat tackle is the large timberhead at the end of the fore bulkhead, at least that's what I used. All those timberheads seem to have two or even three lines belayed on them. The cleat on the back of the cathead is for the cathead stopper, as seen here: well, as not seen here, the photo is cut off. The black cathead stopper goes through the anchor ring then up to the back of the cathead (as seen here) then round the big cleat (not visible).
  25. Ian_Grant
    I had the same distortion problem trying to fix the bent-up stern railing on "Preussen". Hot water didn't do it, so I went to boiling and all of a sudden the whole thing just curled into a mess. Of course, it was completely formed of thin cylinders.... Marc you can order extra parts from Heller for further experimentation.

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