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Ian_Grant

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Everything posted by Ian_Grant

  1. Ian_Grant
    Ah, j'adore Paris! Bonne journee!
  2. Ian_Grant
    A small amount of alcohol, like "a tot of rum for this fine crew!".
  3. Ian_Grant
    First layer aesthetics don't really matter. Yours looks clean and fair, so it's great!
  4. Ian_Grant
    It's only that valuable if someone pays that for it. 🤪 There are ridiculous price ranges on amazon.ca for specialized books too, ranging from reasonable to astronomical. Always bugs me.
  5. Ian_Grant
    Errata on my last post - see correction in red. Sorry for the confusion!
  6. Ian_Grant
    On my model, I frapped the guy pendant and flying jibboom guy tackles around themselves since they are rarely adjusted. I belayed the traveling guy to a timberhead on the front rail since it would need to be adjusted every time they moved the jib traveler. Made sense to me. 🤔 Note Longridge calls it the "traveling guy" in the text describing the guys (pp 227-228) but it is labelled as the "jibboom guy" on pg266.
  7. Ian_Grant
    I forgot to mention that successive seizings move gradually further aft as the shrouds move higher up the mast, to keep things neat. It's noticeable in the picture.
  8. Ian_Grant
    Hi Vitus, A length of thread is looped around the mast head, above the top. The resulting two lengths are clenched together tight against the mast with a seizing very close to it; that gives you a shroud pair. Usually the starboard forward pair is first, then the port forward pair is wrapped around the mast, seized, and pushed down against the first pair, from above. Then the starboard 3rd and 4th shroud, and so on. At the end you have a series of wraps around the mast stacked in a neat vertical array. Have a look at the picture below, from Longridge. The shrouds are seen just above the top, in two colours to indicate the alternating port/starboard shroud pairs. This is an 18th century ship ("Victory", in fact), but this aspect is the same even for wire rigging.
  9. Ian_Grant
    Hi Bill, your modified show guns with new wheel and trunnion positions look great! Nice job.
  10. Ian_Grant
    Words fail me......stupendously imaginative scene....water looks fantastic, love the wave crest frothing....bottle mouth dripping looks great....how can you ever top this, I don't know.
  11. Ian_Grant
    Hi members, I'm making a model for RC operation on the water. I skinned it in plywood with all joints on framing; I don't want to f/g the outside. I do plan to spar varnish before scuffing and painting. There are outer wales and a few trim pieces to apply to the outer hull. I don't want cracks to show along the their edges. If it was room trim, I'd use painter's caulk then paint over. Can I use this for a hull which will see water? Is there something better?
  12. Ian_Grant
    Nice work, Rookie.....🤙
  13. Ian_Grant
    Or maybe a short piece of clear tubing?
  14. Ian_Grant
    Yes that's correct. I would ignore the Heller rigging notes judging by that new diagram. I know I ignored their notes in my old Heller Victory instruction sheets. Longridge is your bible for Victory.
  15. Ian_Grant
    The stays through the dolphin striker are, from top down, the inner martingale (Longridge pg 227), outer martingale (pg227), flying martingale (pg 227), and fore royal stay (pg 224). The martingales all belay with purchases to the port or starboard knighthead, each of which has three eyebolts on its front face. See Plan 10 on pg 266 for notes. Plan 10 shows that in addition to the martingales, the fore topmast stay, fore topmast preventer stay, and fore topgallant stay also belay on the knightheads. Longridge states that the fore royal stay can belay to the forestay collar, or a knighthead; but as he already has three lines to each knighthead he apparently decided it must belay to the collar.
  16. Ian_Grant
    Whew! Hope your drug arrives quickly, and that you are home soon! 🤙
  17. Ian_Grant
    My opinion - that ring is too big. Just my opinion.
  18. Ian_Grant
    I think that sheet is a "Hellerism"; running it past five cannons through the centres of the openings seems crazy. On the other hand you'd want a lot of length in order for many men to clap on when hauling. On yet another hand they wouldn't be able to with cannons standing there. I half remember someone talking about changing some of the belay points on his SR, and that in the instructions one of the big kevels is empty and made more sense to use than what the instructions stated. Sorry I can't be more specific, I of course haven't started this ship yet.
  19. Ian_Grant
    Sorry to hear that; get well soon! To seize the a shroud at a deadeye, I wrap it round at the correct length, then clamp it at the deadeye edge with, again, a mini toothless alligator clip. I then apply the seizing thread with an overhand knot; it's thin enough to slip in between the clip and the deadeye. I then wrap both legs of the seizing around to the back of the deadeye and do another overhand knot. Then remove the clip and again wrap the two shroud threads and one leg of the seizing using the other leg, finish with an overhand knot or two, dab of glue, and trim the ends. Not really cricket compared to reality but at 1/100 it looks fine to all but the most discerning modelers.
  20. Ian_Grant
    You're allowed to cheat at 1/100 scale! I start a seizing by tying an ordinary overhand knot, then use one leg to wrap both the other leg and the lines being seized, ending in another overhand knot. A spot of glue, snip the ends and you're done. One can sometimes seize the shroud pairs off the ship, around a suitable diameter dowel, then slip them over the mast head before adding the cap, be it lower or topmast. If one needs to seize at the masthead, I use a mini alligator clip (the type with no teeth) to hold the loop together while I seize. For singleton shrouds (called "swifters" I believe), you can cheat (again) by using the knot below to add both sides at the same time with one length of thread. Where they cross, I've interrupted the one that is below the other. This looks very effective on the mast, much like two properly formed swifters. By tugging at the two loops as you tighten it you can "move" the shrouds forward or aft on the mast. Thanks to "Blue Ensign" who published this on the old Pete Coleman Victory Model website.
  21. Ian_Grant
    Did you mean the seizing of the shroud pairs at the masthead? Or the seizing at the deadeyes?
  22. Ian_Grant
    Thank you Marc. She's looking pretty rough to this point; I just hope I can do the finer work and the finishing with more elegance.
  23. Ian_Grant
    I agree. That hull is beautiful! As are the masts and rigging, obviously.
  24. Ian_Grant
    Kit bashing an x-wing fighter..... 😃 You've come a long way Bill!! 😏
  25. Ian_Grant
    Yes, they do add a lot to the model. I remember being thrilled too. Good job taping the bee lines! Nice model!

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