Ian_Grant
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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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According to the English translation page on my old instructions, that barrel is a matchtub ie for lit matches I presume. Quite why there would be only one is another question. Looking splendid Bill !!! -
Hi David; thanks for the reply. Yes, it is something to ponder. I thought about cloth and resin over the smooth hull before applying walesetc; on the other hand this is a made-up hull (ie, there were no plans available) and my hull displacement calculations and estimated total weight were a little uncertain so I'm trying to keep weight down. In my case, the skin is all 1/32" plywood with joints over framing members; if it was planked I'd definitely use cloth and resin on the exterior, and resin on the interior. I hadn't heard of TotalBoat before, I've always used West System which as far as I know only has one type of resin. Thanks for the reference; I will read up on TB's resin varieties. I notice that the finishing resin has wax in it but they say it can be painted; that's a little unusual. Will post later and report on whatever I end up doing.
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Thank you. 🤙
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We're off on a bucket-list trip tomorrow so I thought I'd post the ship status. I added the thicker plywood containing the ports for the lower oars, and also the main wales. Transition from the ram up front getting more refined. The extreme stem is now a flat surface with two holes for aluminum rod "pins". The actual ram will be 3d-printed with matching holes. The real ship's wales went right into the ram casting to distribute the shock of impact along the entire fabric of the ship. This will be simulated with angled projecting "ears" on the ram to match the wales (same for the stem). Next step is to add the external keel. Too bad as the flat bottom has been handy to have, but I don't want to be adding it after the perhaps fragile outriggers are on the sides. Wouldn't mind painting the bottom too, before adding the outriggers. I made a start at sanding/filling. Hull actually feels pretty good considering. Does anyone have a recommended product to "caulk" the cracks where two surfaces meet? eg the wales and the hull? On house trim I'd just use latex painter's caulk and be done with it. Not sure if this would be suitable on a model boat on water........ Hope to hell this thing actually moves on the water!!! 🙄 😬
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First layer aesthetics don't really matter. Yours looks clean and fair, so it's great!
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It's only that valuable if someone pays that for it. 🤪 There are ridiculous price ranges on amazon.ca for specialized books too, ranging from reasonable to astronomical. Always bugs me.
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On my model, I frapped the guy pendant and flying jibboom guy tackles around themselves since they are rarely adjusted. I belayed the traveling guy to a timberhead on the front rail since it would need to be adjusted every time they moved the jib traveler. Made sense to me. 🤔 Note Longridge calls it the "traveling guy" in the text describing the guys (pp 227-228) but it is labelled as the "jibboom guy" on pg266.
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I forgot to mention that successive seizings move gradually further aft as the shrouds move higher up the mast, to keep things neat. It's noticeable in the picture.
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Hi Vitus, A length of thread is looped around the mast head, above the top. The resulting two lengths are clenched together tight against the mast with a seizing very close to it; that gives you a shroud pair. Usually the starboard forward pair is first, then the port forward pair is wrapped around the mast, seized, and pushed down against the first pair, from above. Then the starboard 3rd and 4th shroud, and so on. At the end you have a series of wraps around the mast stacked in a neat vertical array. Have a look at the picture below, from Longridge. The shrouds are seen just above the top, in two colours to indicate the alternating port/starboard shroud pairs. This is an 18th century ship ("Victory", in fact), but this aspect is the same even for wire rigging.
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Hi Bill, your modified show guns with new wheel and trunnion positions look great! Nice job.
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Words fail me......stupendously imaginative scene....water looks fantastic, love the wave crest frothing....bottle mouth dripping looks great....how can you ever top this, I don't know.
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Hi members, I'm making a model for RC operation on the water. I skinned it in plywood with all joints on framing; I don't want to f/g the outside. I do plan to spar varnish before scuffing and painting. There are outer wales and a few trim pieces to apply to the outer hull. I don't want cracks to show along the their edges. If it was room trim, I'd use painter's caulk then paint over. Can I use this for a hull which will see water? Is there something better?
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Nice work, Rookie.....🤙
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Yes that's correct. I would ignore the Heller rigging notes judging by that new diagram. I know I ignored their notes in my old Heller Victory instruction sheets. Longridge is your bible for Victory.
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The stays through the dolphin striker are, from top down, the inner martingale (Longridge pg 227), outer martingale (pg227), flying martingale (pg 227), and fore royal stay (pg 224). The martingales all belay with purchases to the port or starboard knighthead, each of which has three eyebolts on its front face. See Plan 10 on pg 266 for notes. Plan 10 shows that in addition to the martingales, the fore topmast stay, fore topmast preventer stay, and fore topgallant stay also belay on the knightheads. Longridge states that the fore royal stay can belay to the forestay collar, or a knighthead; but as he already has three lines to each knighthead he apparently decided it must belay to the collar.
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Whew! Hope your drug arrives quickly, and that you are home soon! 🤙
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My opinion - that ring is too big. Just my opinion.
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I think that sheet is a "Hellerism"; running it past five cannons through the centres of the openings seems crazy. On the other hand you'd want a lot of length in order for many men to clap on when hauling. On yet another hand they wouldn't be able to with cannons standing there. I half remember someone talking about changing some of the belay points on his SR, and that in the instructions one of the big kevels is empty and made more sense to use than what the instructions stated. Sorry I can't be more specific, I of course haven't started this ship yet.
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Sorry to hear that; get well soon! To seize the a shroud at a deadeye, I wrap it round at the correct length, then clamp it at the deadeye edge with, again, a mini toothless alligator clip. I then apply the seizing thread with an overhand knot; it's thin enough to slip in between the clip and the deadeye. I then wrap both legs of the seizing around to the back of the deadeye and do another overhand knot. Then remove the clip and again wrap the two shroud threads and one leg of the seizing using the other leg, finish with an overhand knot or two, dab of glue, and trim the ends. Not really cricket compared to reality but at 1/100 it looks fine to all but the most discerning modelers.
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You're allowed to cheat at 1/100 scale! I start a seizing by tying an ordinary overhand knot, then use one leg to wrap both the other leg and the lines being seized, ending in another overhand knot. A spot of glue, snip the ends and you're done. One can sometimes seize the shroud pairs off the ship, around a suitable diameter dowel, then slip them over the mast head before adding the cap, be it lower or topmast. If one needs to seize at the masthead, I use a mini alligator clip (the type with no teeth) to hold the loop together while I seize. For singleton shrouds (called "swifters" I believe), you can cheat (again) by using the knot below to add both sides at the same time with one length of thread. Where they cross, I've interrupted the one that is below the other. This looks very effective on the mast, much like two properly formed swifters. By tugging at the two loops as you tighten it you can "move" the shrouds forward or aft on the mast. Thanks to "Blue Ensign" who published this on the old Pete Coleman Victory Model website.
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Did you mean the seizing of the shroud pairs at the masthead? Or the seizing at the deadeyes?
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