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Baker

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  1. Baker
  2. Baker
    Indeed, Great work 👍
  3. Baker
    Oops. as a resident of the eu i am not allowed to view this
  4. Baker
    I think wood is better than plastic for ships with a wooden hull. Although some of us can do amazing things painting plastic models. Building a wooden hull is more difficult than a plastic one. But once past this point, the rest isn't much harder than a plastic model. And, wood or plastic, rigging takes the same amount of time.
  5. Baker
    Thanks. It is best to give the bulkheads a dark color. Then it is sanding off the excess material, except for the parts in the dark color. And regularly testing with a plank until the shape of the hull is correct The rest is practice, experience and "fingerspitzengefühl"
  6. Baker
    First prize 😉 👍 A very nice model Ondras
  7. Baker
    In the meantime, i have looked at where and how wales planks keel etc.. come. Planks (oak) in the lower part of the hull were 10 cm thick. Respect to the builders 500 years ago for getting this done The position of the wales and decks on section 1 3 5 6 8 and 10 The stern has also been studied. Although not proven but also not disapproved. two stern chasers will be provided to be continued, thanks for following
  8. Baker
    Fillerblocks All filler blocks are glued Sand evenly with the angle grinder 😇 After a few minutes Dust, dust, dust. Never do this indoors 😷😉 The final sanding was done by hand. The base for the hull is ready. With all the extra plywood and filler blocks, this is a solid base that will not warp later. What is already noticeable is the pointed shape of the bow. I did not expect this at all from a carrack and certainly not from one of this size
  9. Baker
  10. Baker
  11. Baker
    Fantastic work, well done!
  12. Baker
  13. Baker
  14. Baker
    Nice work and good that you are having fun with this model. But . These don't go over the mast top but under it.
  15. Baker
    the description is "a la billings"... mast : 26 pieces...
  16. Baker
    if I remember correctly. First impression. Pieces with this shape are intended for the lower parts of the fore and main mast. so, you should have 2 like this. otherwise you may have one too many.
  17. Baker
    I fill the open spaces between the bulkheads with fillerblocks when I make a scratch model. The reason is (was) that I did not have a correct frame drawing. Due to the thickness of the filler blocks, there is a lot of margin for sanding errors here and there. The first coarse sanding is then done with the vertical sanding disc (Goes quickly and without much effort). I will not do this with a kit model with 2 layers of planking, only a few at the bow and stern.
  18. Baker
    An example from a great modeler
  19. Baker
    The French text translated into Dutch Onder de elementen wordt genoemd "een kleine brajart" van 20 voet lang, 4 inch in diameter en 6 inch in toon. Ik veronderstel dat dit mastelement onder een naam die ik niet kende een luchtboog is die het mogelijk maakt een fok te vestigen, zijdelings met de wind mee of met volle reikwijdte en bij goed weer. Fok in English = fore sail It can be a curved yard for the fore sail (20 feet long 4 inch in diameter and a curve from 6 inch) To be able to make full use of the fore sail in good weather. There is no guarantee that this is the answer 😇😉
  20. Baker
    Now that the bulkheads have approximately the right shape, it is time to add the extra supports between them Then the bulkheads and the supports are chamfered now my favourite part, fillerblocks These will be installed in the hull part below the cannon deck Number 1 in place Thanks for following
  21. Baker
  22. Baker
    Great work All the extra details bring more life to this kit
  23. Baker
    Good luck and enjoy 😉
  24. Baker
  25. Baker
    Great model Much, much better dan 70% 😉

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