john2013

Thanks for looking in Jorgen, I'm quite impressed with the Vallejo paint, it has great consistency, thins beautifully, and very economical to use.
I initially bought three bottles, unsure how much Cheerful would take, but I've still got plenty left from the first bottle.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

I have done exactly what you did and I also ended up with the Vallejo flat red:)

Thank you Katsumoto for kind words and others for likes. 
I choose different path with this model (considering my 1st post in this build), which will be 99% scratchbuild.
Your comments & likes mean a lot to me.

Post 65
Returning outboard
Side steps and Channels
Surprising how much time producing these seemingly innocuous little fittings take.
There are three of these each side aligning with the inboard steps.
They are formed from 3/32" x 3/32" Boxwood strip as indicated by Chuck.

5762
I decided to mill the profile rather than use the 'scrape' method but I first had a practice on slightly larger stuff.

5764

5770
Ready for fitting.
I fit them in the order of top, bottom, and middle, taking care not to damage the moulding when removing a section to allow the top step to fit in.

5773
The 'iron' stanchions are only temporarily fitted at this point to help align the inboard and outboard steps.

5779
The question has already been discussed on Chuck's log as to why no fourth step. My eye screams at me that one should be there, along the line of the top moulding strip.
Only three are shown on the NMM original plans, so three it is, but my eye still screams at me.

5787
 
Channels
These are made from 5/32" x 5/32" strip as indicated by Chuck.
Having marked the profile  I used the little miller to produce the shape.

5790(2)

5797
The end profile was formed used a scalpel and mini round file.

5801
I decided to leave cutting the slots until later when I had a better idea of the Chainplate angles.

5804
Little by little getting there.
 
 
B.E.
05/02/2019
 

Zappto,
 
Looking Great.
She is really turning out beautiful.
Looks like your close to completing her!
 
K

I have attached the stern Facia followed by the stern counter. Facia has been sanded down to match ply gun port strips.
 






The triangular corners have been filled and shaped. Done so first planking can terminate up against the filler and second go over it.

Swivel Mounts
The most interesting and potentially most tricky feature along the Quarterdeck rails are the swivel gun mounts. A little bit of work to do here as replacements to match those on the Foc’sle are required.
There are five running along each side and they follow the sheer line getting shorter as they go aft, but maintaining a level top line.
At least I had worked out the method of making the mounts when I did the Foc’sle swivels.
These mounts also need to be worked in conjunction with:-
The Roughtree Rail (Quarter Rail)
The kit provided part for this is quite substantial scaling to 12” wide and 3¾” deep. It is designed to fit in notches in the provided swivel mounts.
Steel reckons it should be 6” wide and the ffm suggests it was bolted to the swivel mounts, so the kit version is probably a simplification to aid construction.
This was in effect a safety hand rail so 12” width seems excessive and looks heavy to my eye. A rail of the proportions adjacent to the Gangway looks more in keeping.
I decided to keep the provided rail but reduce it in width so that the swivel mounts fitted into notches in the rail rather than have recesses cut into the mounts into which the rail would fit. (as per the kit arrangement)

The difference in width of the Roughtree rails can be seen here.
The rail was next pva’d onto the supports; this needs to be fixed in order to take off the heights of the mounts.

I fixed the foremost mount first to get the run of the rail correct, then numbers three and five followed by two and four.

I had a slight concern that the fixing arrangement wouldn’t be as rigid as the kit set-up but my fears were unfounded.

So the Quarterdeck swivel mounts are all made and fitted; not such an onerous job as I first thought.

The reduced in width rail looks far better to my eye.
I also decided to make the rail endings a little more stylish rather than simply use a piece of walnut strip angled downwards.

These were carved from a bit of Mr Rabone’s ruler.

To complete the basic fitting of the mounts the iron bolts were secured thro’ the mounts and into the hull which gives added stability.

 

The thinned down rails are evident in this shot.

This all but completes the work on the Quarterdeck, time to move back to the hull.
B.E.

The finished model
 





 
 
 

These stairs are made of wood, some parts on the model are wooden mainly for greater solidity, but I try to use paper as most as possible.

Beautiful work Doris! I wish I would have learned your technique with clay prior to carving my decorations from wood on Soleil Royal as I think I would have been more successful using that medium instead of wood. I think I will attempt your way on Royal Louis when it is time as you have been a great source of inspiration and the results speak for themselves.

B.E., I did not have the time to look in for a while, so I just realized that your Pegasus is finished. Congratulations! What a fantastic model! You did an outstanding job! And the same is true for your build log. It will serve a lot of modelers as a guide when building their own models. At least I know it is and will be true for me. Thank you!
 
Best regards,
 
Thomas

Thoughts about Pegasus
This post concludes my build of seven years, and one I have thoroughly enjoyed, as I have enjoyed sharing this journey with my fellow modellers on MSW.
The  beauty of this model is that it is large enough for detail but not so big that it raises any serious display issues. It is also highly decorative and is placed in the period before the Nelson chequer and austerity removed much of the decoration from Georgian ships.
Victory models are the ‘posh’ end of Amati a bit like Lexus and Toyota, and the basic kit produces an attractive model of this pretty bijou Frigate.
Thanks are due to Chris Watton who designed the kit, and to Amati who produced it. Even so, most commercial kit manufacturers make simplifications to extend the appeal to a greater range of modeller ability, and include somewhat out of scale and generic fittings and Amati is no exception.
Much of the enjoyment for me has been in enhancing the kit by use of different materials and fittings and bashing it about a bit with a fair amount of scratch building.
Apart from the basic skeleton and some of the brass etch, very little of the kit provided material and fittings have been used, and I am quick to gloss over the additional costs involved.
Outside sourced materials and fittings.
Boxwood strips and section
http://www.originalmarquetry.co.uk/product_details_335.htm
Rigging blocks and associated attachments
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
http://www.model-dockyard.com/
Rigging line.
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
http://home.foni.net/~agondesen/left.htm
Guns
http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=023
Anchors
http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Fitting_Front.htm
lantern
https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
Dowels- Ramin for lower masts
Various suppliers - check online
Additional brass etch.
http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Fitting_Front.htm
Scratched modifications
Stern Gallery style and decoration.
Great Cabin interior.
Beneath the Foc'sle deck.
Foc'sle rail and belfry.
Quarterdeck rails.
Head works and Cat heads.
Capstans, Gallows, and pumps.
Hatch Coamings
Swivel gun posts.
Masts and yards.
Scratched additions
Galley Stove, Galley Chimney.
Binnacle, Steering stanchions, and Tiller.
Rudder head Cover, Rudder coat.
Clerestory Style Companion top.
Hatch railings, Gang planks, Fish Davit.
Pinnace and Long Boat.
Swinging Booms, Flag staffs and Ensigns.
Reference Works.
For references I primarily used Steel and the Fully Framed book series by David Antscherl, cross referred to Lees, and Marquardt.
Particularly in relation to Masting and Rigging I used Steel to work out the dimensions and line sizes.
http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/
 I am quite pleased with the end result of my build and there are only a  couple of things I would have done differently were I starting now.
1) I would have reduced the width of the first(Bridle) port to make it narrower than a standard gun port.
2) I would have included the bands of top and butt deck planking on the upper deck.
 I would also hope to improve the finish in some of the areas where my knowledge exceeds my skill to carry it out.

I will finally post some completion photo's in the next few days. 
 Thank you all for following along.
 Blue Ensign
8th April 2017.

Outstanding B.E. Love the stand/cradle. Looking forward to seeing her finally in her case.

Just finished uploading all the previously-photobucket images to MSW. Apologies to anyone who couldn't see the pictures. And every best wish to any who are setting out to build this wonderful model!
 

Nice

Hello,

thank you all for your positive feedback.
After a long time back and forth I have for the following execution of the
gooseneck decided.

And I oriented myself primarily to contemporary drawings.
I hope that it is reasonably acceptable.



 

Thanks for the kind words Thomas and thanks also to the "likes".
 
Bob

Thanks for all the kind comments guys and gal - they are always appreciated .
 
Moving upward, another platform with 6 binoculars among other things :





 
Next came the Foremast. To roll the legs I used a piece of brass tubing lined with thin card to give the right diameter :

 
A #16 drill was the perfect size for the inner diameter. I glued the seam a little at a time, moving the mast in and out to prevent any excess glue from sticking to the card liner :

 
The three legs glued together :

 
The mast fitted to the bridge, along with railings and ladders :





 
The Fore Control Top sits above the bridge. Cutting the flimsy base for it took some care :


 
PE Radars came with the aftermarket stuff. Here they are ready for paint :




 
Radars fixed to the top :

 
Railings and antennae fitted, and the top permanently fitted to the bridge :


 
Danny

I agree....with regard to the laser cutter it is the alignment of the optics but also how clean they are.  A dirty/scratched lens and mirrors will also hurt the overall effect.  It is great that they have one though....very nice resource.  I just ordered a bunch of parts for mine because I have been lucky over the last four years.  Its only now showing signs of needing some TLC.  I just ordered a new laser tube, lens and power supply among a few other things.  $1700......but its well worth it.  I am all thumbs with this electronic/electric wiring stuff though, so I am very nervous about doing the revamp.  Should be running as good as new when its fixed up.  But I have to look for someone who can assist me with it who knows their way around a machine like this.  I have a few engineers and electronics guys in mind...but they dont know I just volunteered them for duty yet.

Thanks zappto & to everyone for the "likes".
 
Mark

Mike, John - Thank you for comments, and others for likes .
 
My goal is to "paint with wood" - using pearwood,  boxwood and Ebony.
Plan "A" was to use black stained pear as simulated ebony (wales & other black parts). Now I proceed to plan "B" - to actually use Ebony. After several tests with different dyes, stains, etc. nothing really "catch" the look of real Ebony. 
 
Currently I am working on wales from Ebony - still experimenting on scrap wood, but results are good .
 
 

The eight midship panels are completed. To accomplish this I created a template to capture the correctly sized rectangle. 1/16” wide maple strips were sanded and coated with Wipe-On-Poly prior to cutting the mitors. A jig was created to size, assemble, and glue the panels. After they were assembled, another sanding and coat of WOP was applied.
 
The “fancy” profile was omitted. Many logs I viewed showed folks adding this detail, but at 1/32” thick almost none could produce a profile as clean as in Chuck’s prototype. Mike Y had the cleanest profile, btw. I created a scraper and tried it out, but even with hard maple it was difficult. I decided to save the hours on this detail and move forward. (It’s extremely tiny with the naked eye, but looks huge in photos.)
 
Next task is to figure out the configuration of the rear panels. I will try a modification: one longer panel instead of two shorter panels. Another template will be made to see how it looks.
Steve

I am now belaying some of the rigging to the bitts at the foot of the foremast. I have done and undone various lines a number of times. It occurred to me that there is a problem if the various lines are belayed piecemeal without an idea of just how many lines have to be done, and in what order it is best to do them.  In the case of the foremast bitts, they are very crowded indeed. The belaying points shown in the plans are spread over 4 sheets.
 
 The following drawing gives an idea of just how crowded they are, and, I hope, how best to plan the belaying. The belaying points are shown numbered, and the plan numbers are shown in parenthesis. This may help some other poor souls who share my frustration.

Hey sam, grats on wedding plans, missed that when i read that post.
 
(Just checked mail,, invite not here yet) lol
Best of luck to you both, 👍👏

May as well take advantage of extra pairs of eyes to set your mind at ease.  I'm sure you'll give her a secure berth on her trip to the meeting.  I know one fellow here on MSW had to make a quick stop on a similar adventure and the results were unfortunate.
 
I'm no expert but the run of the planks looks very good.