petervisser

I didn't like the look of my blue PE oars and I had to do something about them, as they were too prominent on deck of the DoK. I de-charred the also supplied ones from pear wood, rounded them cautiously with sanding paper and files and gave them a coat of Wipe on Poly, followed by blue for the blades and gold for the handles.
Now I like the look and it was well worth the extra effort to tear off the PE oars, rip of the seat planks, clean them from CA and repaint them.
The supports were glued to the deck, but the boat will be removed, as it may is in the way, while rigging.
Next is cleaning of the bench and then, it's rigging time .

Cheers Rob
 

 

 

 

 

Almost there with the Cutter. I painted the hull flat white, the seats flat red and the rudder, rows and stripe flat blue, all airbrushed with Tamiya's XF colors.
The gratings, which are made from PE, were primed, airbrushed with Desert yellow and then received a oil color treatment with a flat brush and whit spirit, to emulate a wood finish. Last was a coat of clear matte. The colors were chosen to match the DoK's colors. Some minor touch ups and fitting the rows, hooks and anchors and this little side project can be called done.
 
 
 

 

 

 
Cheers Rob

Hi Guys. It's been a while but I'm still plugging away. Albeit slowly. I finally got around to fitting the decoration to the hull. It's a part of the build that I had been struggling with. The parts that came with the kit included two plastic molds of the name and scroll work for the bow and a decal with the name, port of registry and scroll work for the stern. Nothing too inspiring to attach to the model. I then searched around for suitable replacements, first acquiring the brass fitting sheets that come with the Sergal kit which is 1/78 scale. Although the scale is very similar to my model I found the name boards and scroll work to be a bit oversize. Then I discovered that Artesina Latina also does a Cutty Sark model at 1/84 scale and they sell fittings seperately on request. Bingo! A perfect solution. I decided to use the scroll work pieces that came with my kit to provide some relief and added detail to the bow. I simply sanded off the scroll work to make the pieces smooth. A bit of paint, and presto, they were installed on the model. The decoration arrived from AL and were then also added to the model. The scroll work on the stern meant that the wood strake around the hull had to be modified to accept the decoration, but the sacrafice is worth it I think. I also added some white styrene strips to the bow decoration to jazz up. Here are some pic's of the result...
 



 

I finished all breech lines and started with the gun tackles. For these I am using the 0.008’’ line from Chuck’s Syren company, served with a 100wt beige silk thread (image 1a), and the Syren 2mm single sheave boxwood rigging blocks. I opened up the holes in the blocks a little (77 drill), sanded the corners slightly with a fine sand paper and mounted each block on a wire loop to facilitate the handling of these tiny objects (image 1b). For hooks I went with the photoetched 3mm hooks from Dafi (http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en.html#anker7). All parts needed for a hook-block assembly are shown in image 2c. Images 2 and 3 present the assembly sequence for a tackle and image 4 shows the finished result. For rope coils I used a variation of an idea from Richard (kscadman). Image 5 shows my jig which allows making rope coils right beside the gun. It also allows varying size and shape of these coils. I want to avoid for these coils to look all identical and ‘too perfect’. The first completely rigged carronade is shown in images 6 – 8. I still have to see whether I stick with this process for the remaining 17 guns . . . 

 
Thomas
 

 
Image 1
 
 

 
Image 2
 
 

 
Image 3
 
 

 
Image 4
 
 

 
Image 5
 
 

 
Image 6
 
 

 
Image 7
 
 

 
Image 8
 
 
 
 

Thank you very much for the like!
 
I provided the rear deck with all the pins..



Added Kevel blocks to the rear deck..



And the final spray, the inner railing..


Cleaned the holes in the gretings and waxed the rear deck..


 

Hi Guys. It's been a while but I'm still plugging away. Albeit slowly. I finally got around to fitting the decoration to the hull. It's a part of the build that I had been struggling with. The parts that came with the kit included two plastic molds of the name and scroll work for the bow and a decal with the name, port of registry and scroll work for the stern. Nothing too inspiring to attach to the model. I then searched around for suitable replacements, first acquiring the brass fitting sheets that come with the Sergal kit which is 1/78 scale. Although the scale is very similar to my model I found the name boards and scroll work to be a bit oversize. Then I discovered that Artesina Latina also does a Cutty Sark model at 1/84 scale and they sell fittings seperately on request. Bingo! A perfect solution. I decided to use the scroll work pieces that came with my kit to provide some relief and added detail to the bow. I simply sanded off the scroll work to make the pieces smooth. A bit of paint, and presto, they were installed on the model. The decoration arrived from AL and were then also added to the model. The scroll work on the stern meant that the wood strake around the hull had to be modified to accept the decoration, but the sacrafice is worth it I think. I also added some white styrene strips to the bow decoration to jazz up. Here are some pic's of the result...
 



 

My chapter 11 parts arrived and work is now well under way. I began by assembling and installing the channels. I found that applying the spray adhesive to both pieces created a much better bond than applying to only one piece. I also found it very helpful to slip a couple of deadeye strops into the channel slots while I was gluing and positioning the channel pieces to ensure proper alignment.
 
After the channels were in place I moved on to the channel straps. Following the suggestion to use pliers heated over a candle to make the bends in the straps worked out great.
 
Now it’s on to the deadeyes. 
 
Bob
FullSizeRender.MOV

Thank you very much Patrick!!
 
I lined the back deck with lapped boards..

 

Deck with gratings ground..



Deck sanded..


View below the rear deck..
 

Thank you @rwiederrich. Yes, I have to do a walk into the kitchen to turn the boat these days... Ethalion is still sat at the other end of the bench, so not enough room to slide Stefano round the corner to see the other side these days... 
 
While the weather is so exceptionally fine, it seemed like a good moment to take some photos of the whole... Bearing in mind that so much of it is only placed in place at the moment, Stefano's not looking too shabby
 
At some point, I shall try and get some reasonable photos of Ethalion and Stefano side by side - that really would be a fascinating comparison, but Ethalion is protected behind dust covers at the moment, so it will have to wait.

Finally. Enough focus and concentration have returned to allow me to complete the making, installation and rigging of the quarterdeck guns. While the results are not all that I hoped for, I am absolutely delighted to be back at work on Winnie again and making progress. 
 
Recovery is a slow process, particularly at my age, but I am far more optimistic about being able to complete this project than I Iwas when I  last posted. On to chapter eleven, when the parts become available.
 
Bob6

Hi Guys. It's been a while but I'm still plugging away. Albeit slowly. I finally got around to fitting the decoration to the hull. It's a part of the build that I had been struggling with. The parts that came with the kit included two plastic molds of the name and scroll work for the bow and a decal with the name, port of registry and scroll work for the stern. Nothing too inspiring to attach to the model. I then searched around for suitable replacements, first acquiring the brass fitting sheets that come with the Sergal kit which is 1/78 scale. Although the scale is very similar to my model I found the name boards and scroll work to be a bit oversize. Then I discovered that Artesina Latina also does a Cutty Sark model at 1/84 scale and they sell fittings seperately on request. Bingo! A perfect solution. I decided to use the scroll work pieces that came with my kit to provide some relief and added detail to the bow. I simply sanded off the scroll work to make the pieces smooth. A bit of paint, and presto, they were installed on the model. The decoration arrived from AL and were then also added to the model. The scroll work on the stern meant that the wood strake around the hull had to be modified to accept the decoration, but the sacrafice is worth it I think. I also added some white styrene strips to the bow decoration to jazz up. Here are some pic's of the result...
 



 

Next up, fairing the bulkheads. This is something that needs special attention in order to have a smooth looking hull. I have always used a couple of sanding blocks (a wide one and a narrow one) made by Exacto which work really well. By running the sanding block lightly the length of two bulkhead (keel to deck) it bevels the edges. I bevel two bulkheads at a time, then move on to the next one and bevel that pair. In this way every bulkhead is fair to the one immediately fore and aft of it. Using a shot piece of plank I check the beveling of three bulkheads in order to see the results.
 
Here's a couple of photos showing what I mean.
 

 

Hi Guys. It's been a while but I'm still plugging away. Albeit slowly. I finally got around to fitting the decoration to the hull. It's a part of the build that I had been struggling with. The parts that came with the kit included two plastic molds of the name and scroll work for the bow and a decal with the name, port of registry and scroll work for the stern. Nothing too inspiring to attach to the model. I then searched around for suitable replacements, first acquiring the brass fitting sheets that come with the Sergal kit which is 1/78 scale. Although the scale is very similar to my model I found the name boards and scroll work to be a bit oversize. Then I discovered that Artesina Latina also does a Cutty Sark model at 1/84 scale and they sell fittings seperately on request. Bingo! A perfect solution. I decided to use the scroll work pieces that came with my kit to provide some relief and added detail to the bow. I simply sanded off the scroll work to make the pieces smooth. A bit of paint, and presto, they were installed on the model. The decoration arrived from AL and were then also added to the model. The scroll work on the stern meant that the wood strake around the hull had to be modified to accept the decoration, but the sacrafice is worth it I think. I also added some white styrene strips to the bow decoration to jazz up. Here are some pic's of the result...
 



 

Hello Dirk and welcome to this great site. I have built the Marie Jeanne by Billing a long time ago now. I really like the lines of this boat and it's colourful paint scheme. I ran across another site that had photos of the same model built by other modellers with totally different colourings. It was a treat to see! Anyway, all the best with your project. It was a fun build for me and I hope a fun one for you as well. Happy New Year!
Peter

Looking good!  Keep up the great work!

Hiya Scot. Welcome to the site. I'm in Victoria. How about you?

Hiya Scot. Welcome to the site. I'm in Victoria. How about you?

Greetings fellow modelers. 
 
A belated thank you to Keith, Kev, Andy and Ron, for your comments.  How has an entire month gone by unnoticed?
 
 
I am sure you are correct on this point Kev.  It wouldn't take more than one or two complaints from clients about a sore bottom for the guide operators to fix that.  Thanks for checking out my log and for the nice words.
 
 
Hello Ron.  Thanks, I didn't know about these epoxy rivet decal sheets, but I can think of many possible future uses.   
 
Finished

I've been working on this Rangeley model in fits and starts between outdoor projects and other activities.  But it is finally complete.
 
A couple of minor details have been added.  A fly rod and reel made of wood, brass and paper.
 

 
 
And a tackle box of wood, styrene and brass.
 

 
 
Exposed rock ledge is visible everywhere in Maine and I reasoned it would make an appropriate base for the model. 
 

 
 
Both ends of the boat got stern/bow lines.
 

 
 
I chipped high points off the rock until it sat flat without rocking and then attached felt feet to keep it from destroying our furniture.  Also, I epoxied a label to the underside.  The hull received a final coat of paint and everything was epoxied to the rock.


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to all for stopping to take a look and for the “likes”.   And I especially want to thank everyone who has left comments.  Your thoughts, suggestions and support are always greatly appreciated and I thank you so much.
 
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

Hiya Scot. Welcome to the site. I'm in Victoria. How about you?

Update
 
fitted the skylight, the mainsail sheet and the two uncompleted companionway hatches....
I`m trying to get the aft name sign and the port name reduced to the right size. The windows / excel tool allows to get the display in a rounded, bent shape, but only in a too large size. This is to compensate the tapered aft-section. I intend to print them on transparent self-adhesive foil and cut out the text for bringing it on to the hull surface. It looks like my printer has no built in decline function
 
 
 
Nils

 
 

 
 

Ranger is now completed. It's taken me well over 2 weeks longer than I expected due to illness, hospital etc!
 
This has been a beautiful model to build and very, very easy. Nothing here is at all taxing and she's perfect for anyone who's never built a model before, as are all the fisher kits. I do very much like this one though. I do find them easy after doing six of the fishers though! Anyway, here we go. These photos are very self-explanatory. 
 
 
 









 
 
Here she is, now finished. The little boat on deck does come with the kit too. 
 



 

Time for another update. I have continued forward on the deck with fittings and equipment. Nothing has been permanently mounted yet. I want to see everything together first, to check that the proportions looks good.
 
In this photo, we can see the top of the windlass. Nothing else of the area in front of the fore mast can be seen above the railing. I need to make an educated guess.

I have decided for something similar to the layout shown in the following photo. It is from another schooner from about the same time. It shows the windlass, a companionway and a hatch. There are also two bollards at the railing, similar to the photo above.

For the windlass, the kit contained some nicely made brass pieces.
 

However, I don't feel that the roll is accurate enough. So I decided to make my own pieces.


The result, thus far. There are still the handles, and the mechanism for turning the drum to install. Maybe I will wait with that for later, so I won't break them when working with other things.

I'm still thinking about redoing the windlass drum. It may be a bit too big. I will look at how it looks together with the rest and decide later...

Hi Everyone, today I am declaring that my Cheerful is finished. This build has been a lot of fun and a great learning experience.  A big thank you to all of the people who joined me on this journey and to those who have guided me along the way. Hopefully we can do it again one day. 


 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Just a few pictures to show the completed upper decks. 


Time to move on to planking the hull. Fingers crossed it goes well.

I've now completed the quarterdeck rail and the transom rail. I pretty much followed Chuck's instructions and sequence, including cutting down the transom frames before doing the quarterdeck rail. Not everything came out quite as straight as I would have liked. One change that I made from the sequence was to drill the holes for the gunport eyebolts and ringbolts before mounting the rail uprights, since I was sure that nothing good would come of trying to drill over and around the deck furniture and fixtures. I also added the eyebolts and ringbolts at the transom ports, as shown on the plans.
 
I had made up the fairleads, but somehow managed to vacuum them up and then compounded my stupidity by throwing away the laser sheets with the spares after completing the six needed. I will now have to scratch build them before moving on to the guns.
 
Bob