RGL
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Everything posted by RGL
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Thanks Cog, a black ship is harder than I thought. It makes the deck so stark it’s going to need sone work. -
So, highlights, dulling down with sea blue overspray of grey for paint fade. Chipping next it actually looks OK with the Mk1 eyeball.
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No, the practice hull in the foreground is just to see contrast. It has had a lot of coast over the last few years. I will highlight the hull plates and edges to bring out the details etched into the hull.
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Back to the boat. As I’m using chipping fluid I need a full day. 4 coats of chipping fluid, then a coat of black which makes every single detail disappear into a void. so for some shading I’ve tried dark iron, sea blue them dark grey. I’ve decided dark grey highlights and a very diluted sea blue to fade it.
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I’ve gotten a few things from 3D printers,, they’re amazing. Model Monkey has separated from Shapeways so their products are cheapest and in the US for you yanks. back to this, looking great with the details, I couldn’t go up to 1/200 as I couldn’t fit it in my study.
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Nah, I’ve just seen another shiny thing
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It’s just that he likes to be in the drivers seat
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It may not look like much but the base rust coat applied. Once I’ve applied a matte coat I can begin chipping fluids then start painting him black. That won’t be till next week when I’m off work again. My plan is to now start on some f the other hull structures that won’t need sever be weathering.
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So not much done today as gardening took priority. The Svestapol set has a heap of thin little steel railings that are used on her deck. Perfect for non slip footings that are used on the anchor storage area. the housings amidships, I’ve painted in the windows and masked them off. A day of primer then a base rust coat next. Hopefully I can make it look a bit better than the old rough kit it is now.
- 173 replies
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About 50/50 or until it is not opaque, it works a treat. Best discovery I’ve made in years. Trial it on on some frets that have been used.
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Ah! It’s like being married! I’ve told you this before!!!! this, thinned with this in the airbrush is the answer. Works really well and does not lose detail. I still like the rattle can for hull plates and big areas with no detail as it’s quick
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Cog, yes and yes. The primer is red Tamiya rattle can but I intend to prime all the PE with the airbrush then give it a further deep red coat then a clear coat to seal before using chipping fluids.
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Torpedo net shelves, boom arm brackets and torpedo loading hatch (for some reason it’s on the plans but never provided for or on the kit.
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Hull fittings, rings and rigging points for the torpedo net booms, anchor hawse replaced and a Thin brass rod for a handrail.
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So this arrived today apart from a small spelling mistake, it’s almost like a Flyhawk set, very good quality. Wafer thin deck, masking sheet for painting the fore deck. , barrels and 6 sheets of PE. then instructions in a booklet
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I think I can do some more when I do the waterline but I’ll need to add some rust then so it will dull it down. The alge would (I believe ) be nearer the waterline ...
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