FriedClams

Transom
Here are a couple of photos of the transom backing taken after the hull was cut away from the base and before the top three courses of hull planking were put on.  The tab that secured it to the building base hasn’t been removed yet.  You can see the temporary jig holding the transom backing to the required curvature.  Now with the hull planking on but still running past the transom, I am able to remove the temporary jig and apply the three transom boards that will make up the outer surface of the transom.
 
 

First I cut the boards from the basswood sheet leaving extra material to sand and fit each board.  Unlike the transom backing where the wood grain is vertical, these boards are cut so the grain is horizontal.
 
 Test fitting these outer boards was rather tedious and fiddly because I couldn’t cut the hull planking flush until the outer transom boards were on.  They also had to be pre-bent against the grain to fit the curvature of the transom backing.  One at a time they were fitted, held in position with clamps and glued with very thin CA.  A few drops of the CA applied to the upper edge of each board were all that was needed to secure them.  The watery CA raced down between the two wood surfaces, effectively creating a two-layer plywood.
 

At this point the base tab was removed and the hull planking trimmed and sanded flush.
 
 

Marking the water line was simple by placing the model back onto the base.  The irregularity of the cuts when the boat was separated from the base allowed it to key back into place exactly and perfectly level.
 


  

 

There are several problems with the keel, stem and area around the sternpost that need to be corrected.  They will be addressed on the next post.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Gary

Transom
Here are a couple of photos of the transom backing taken after the hull was cut away from the base and before the top three courses of hull planking were put on.  The tab that secured it to the building base hasn’t been removed yet.  You can see the temporary jig holding the transom backing to the required curvature.  Now with the hull planking on but still running past the transom, I am able to remove the temporary jig and apply the three transom boards that will make up the outer surface of the transom.
 
 

First I cut the boards from the basswood sheet leaving extra material to sand and fit each board.  Unlike the transom backing where the wood grain is vertical, these boards are cut so the grain is horizontal.
 
 Test fitting these outer boards was rather tedious and fiddly because I couldn’t cut the hull planking flush until the outer transom boards were on.  They also had to be pre-bent against the grain to fit the curvature of the transom backing.  One at a time they were fitted, held in position with clamps and glued with very thin CA.  A few drops of the CA applied to the upper edge of each board were all that was needed to secure them.  The watery CA raced down between the two wood surfaces, effectively creating a two-layer plywood.
 

At this point the base tab was removed and the hull planking trimmed and sanded flush.
 
 

Marking the water line was simple by placing the model back onto the base.  The irregularity of the cuts when the boat was separated from the base allowed it to key back into place exactly and perfectly level.
 


  

 

There are several problems with the keel, stem and area around the sternpost that need to be corrected.  They will be addressed on the next post.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Gary

Transom
Here are a couple of photos of the transom backing taken after the hull was cut away from the base and before the top three courses of hull planking were put on.  The tab that secured it to the building base hasn’t been removed yet.  You can see the temporary jig holding the transom backing to the required curvature.  Now with the hull planking on but still running past the transom, I am able to remove the temporary jig and apply the three transom boards that will make up the outer surface of the transom.
 
 

First I cut the boards from the basswood sheet leaving extra material to sand and fit each board.  Unlike the transom backing where the wood grain is vertical, these boards are cut so the grain is horizontal.
 
 Test fitting these outer boards was rather tedious and fiddly because I couldn’t cut the hull planking flush until the outer transom boards were on.  They also had to be pre-bent against the grain to fit the curvature of the transom backing.  One at a time they were fitted, held in position with clamps and glued with very thin CA.  A few drops of the CA applied to the upper edge of each board were all that was needed to secure them.  The watery CA raced down between the two wood surfaces, effectively creating a two-layer plywood.
 

At this point the base tab was removed and the hull planking trimmed and sanded flush.
 
 

Marking the water line was simple by placing the model back onto the base.  The irregularity of the cuts when the boat was separated from the base allowed it to key back into place exactly and perfectly level.
 


  

 

There are several problems with the keel, stem and area around the sternpost that need to be corrected.  They will be addressed on the next post.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Gary

Thanks Keith
 
Lining OFF
Beginning the sawdust phase, I cut the bulkheads out with my scroll saw leaving the piece large (cutting to the outside of the template line.)  I do this because I have no skill with the saw and cannot keep to a line.  I then use a bench top disc sander and work back to the template outline.  This works great with the convex edge and I use a Dremel sanding drum for the inside curves.
 
I glue these forms to the platform base and attach the keel/stem.  Before the keel went on, I cut a rabbet on the stem.
 

 
Using a batten to see how the bulkheads faired, I found a problem.  Station #8 was too small and #7 was ridiculously too large.  Looking back at the body plan it’s hard to see how I missed it.  But, that’s the point of going through the fairing up process.  So, I built up #8 and went after #7 with a file.
 

 
Based on photos and drawings, the planking widths for this vessel seem to vary in the 5” to 7” range.  I have a stash of stripwood that scales to approximately 6.5” wide x 1.75” thick so decided to use those.  Because station #7 has the longest edge length of any bulkhead, it will be the location where the planks are at there full width.  From here they taper to the stem and taper back to the stern.  It will require 23 courses of planks per side.
 
There will be 4 belts per side of 6 planks each.  Belt #1 beginning at the keel will have only 5.  From station #7 back to the stern, 4 planks are lost in belt #1.
 
I measure the length of each station edge and check it against what my CAD drawing says it should be.  Knowing how many planks will be required, I generate the following plank width tick mark strips for each bulkhead edge.
 
  
 
The width of the planks at the bow is just under 5.25” which satisfies the “not less than half” plank width guideline.  No steelers or drops are needed.
 
The strip marks are temporarily taped on the bulkheads and a batten strip is used to get a general sense of the curve following the tick marks.
 

 
Happy with the way it looked, I transferred the tick marks to the stations with pencil and temporarily attached thread at each belt as a final check to see how the plank courses run.  After a few minor modifications, I was ready to start planking. 
 

 
Planking
The coloring and weathering the model will receive will not only reveal but also accentuate the planking on the hull, so I won’t be using any filler or putty.  On a previous model, I planked the hull somewhat haphazardly, knowing that I was going to slather Bondo on it and sand it smooth.  I’m happy with the way the model came out, but it would have been more realistic with the planks showing through the paint.
 

 
I set up a little jig to hold the stripwood firmly in place as I slice the taper into it - then sand to fit

I begin planking at the keel with the garboard and lay on two belts of planks on one side.  Each course is tapered on the upper edge of the planks so that each successive course starts with a straight edge.
 
Each course of planks is made from a single strip of wood.  After it is tapered and test fit, it is then cut to simulate the butt ends of two individual boards.  The joints are reinforced on the reverse side. 
 
Two more belts are added to the other side.

 

 
Then the last 4 belts are added minus the top three courses.
 


 
At this point, I cut the hull from the platform.
 

 

 
The next course of planking requires the scuppers.
 

 
Finally, I sand the hull and finish it off with a soft brass wire brush.  The wire brush removes the sanding shine and any cross grain scratches and in general sort of unifies the look.  It will also help with the weathering later on.
 
These final photos were taken in full direct sunlight in hopes that the effect of the wire brush can be seen.  A few final licks with 800 grit paper will take the remaining wood fuzz off. 
 

 

 
This post brings me up to date in real time on this model.  
 
Thanks for taking a look.
 
Gary
 
 

Transom
Here are a couple of photos of the transom backing taken after the hull was cut away from the base and before the top three courses of hull planking were put on.  The tab that secured it to the building base hasn’t been removed yet.  You can see the temporary jig holding the transom backing to the required curvature.  Now with the hull planking on but still running past the transom, I am able to remove the temporary jig and apply the three transom boards that will make up the outer surface of the transom.
 
 

First I cut the boards from the basswood sheet leaving extra material to sand and fit each board.  Unlike the transom backing where the wood grain is vertical, these boards are cut so the grain is horizontal.
 
 Test fitting these outer boards was rather tedious and fiddly because I couldn’t cut the hull planking flush until the outer transom boards were on.  They also had to be pre-bent against the grain to fit the curvature of the transom backing.  One at a time they were fitted, held in position with clamps and glued with very thin CA.  A few drops of the CA applied to the upper edge of each board were all that was needed to secure them.  The watery CA raced down between the two wood surfaces, effectively creating a two-layer plywood.
 

At this point the base tab was removed and the hull planking trimmed and sanded flush.
 
 

Marking the water line was simple by placing the model back onto the base.  The irregularity of the cuts when the boat was separated from the base allowed it to key back into place exactly and perfectly level.
 


  

 

There are several problems with the keel, stem and area around the sternpost that need to be corrected.  They will be addressed on the next post.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Gary

Thanks Keith
 
Lining OFF
Beginning the sawdust phase, I cut the bulkheads out with my scroll saw leaving the piece large (cutting to the outside of the template line.)  I do this because I have no skill with the saw and cannot keep to a line.  I then use a bench top disc sander and work back to the template outline.  This works great with the convex edge and I use a Dremel sanding drum for the inside curves.
 
I glue these forms to the platform base and attach the keel/stem.  Before the keel went on, I cut a rabbet on the stem.
 

 
Using a batten to see how the bulkheads faired, I found a problem.  Station #8 was too small and #7 was ridiculously too large.  Looking back at the body plan it’s hard to see how I missed it.  But, that’s the point of going through the fairing up process.  So, I built up #8 and went after #7 with a file.
 

 
Based on photos and drawings, the planking widths for this vessel seem to vary in the 5” to 7” range.  I have a stash of stripwood that scales to approximately 6.5” wide x 1.75” thick so decided to use those.  Because station #7 has the longest edge length of any bulkhead, it will be the location where the planks are at there full width.  From here they taper to the stem and taper back to the stern.  It will require 23 courses of planks per side.
 
There will be 4 belts per side of 6 planks each.  Belt #1 beginning at the keel will have only 5.  From station #7 back to the stern, 4 planks are lost in belt #1.
 
I measure the length of each station edge and check it against what my CAD drawing says it should be.  Knowing how many planks will be required, I generate the following plank width tick mark strips for each bulkhead edge.
 
  
 
The width of the planks at the bow is just under 5.25” which satisfies the “not less than half” plank width guideline.  No steelers or drops are needed.
 
The strip marks are temporarily taped on the bulkheads and a batten strip is used to get a general sense of the curve following the tick marks.
 

 
Happy with the way it looked, I transferred the tick marks to the stations with pencil and temporarily attached thread at each belt as a final check to see how the plank courses run.  After a few minor modifications, I was ready to start planking. 
 

 
Planking
The coloring and weathering the model will receive will not only reveal but also accentuate the planking on the hull, so I won’t be using any filler or putty.  On a previous model, I planked the hull somewhat haphazardly, knowing that I was going to slather Bondo on it and sand it smooth.  I’m happy with the way the model came out, but it would have been more realistic with the planks showing through the paint.
 

 
I set up a little jig to hold the stripwood firmly in place as I slice the taper into it - then sand to fit

I begin planking at the keel with the garboard and lay on two belts of planks on one side.  Each course is tapered on the upper edge of the planks so that each successive course starts with a straight edge.
 
Each course of planks is made from a single strip of wood.  After it is tapered and test fit, it is then cut to simulate the butt ends of two individual boards.  The joints are reinforced on the reverse side. 
 
Two more belts are added to the other side.

 

 
Then the last 4 belts are added minus the top three courses.
 


 
At this point, I cut the hull from the platform.
 

 

 
The next course of planking requires the scuppers.
 

 
Finally, I sand the hull and finish it off with a soft brass wire brush.  The wire brush removes the sanding shine and any cross grain scratches and in general sort of unifies the look.  It will also help with the weathering later on.
 
These final photos were taken in full direct sunlight in hopes that the effect of the wire brush can be seen.  A few final licks with 800 grit paper will take the remaining wood fuzz off. 
 

 

 
This post brings me up to date in real time on this model.  
 
Thanks for taking a look.
 
Gary
 
 

Hello Keith,
 
I just wanted to stick my head in to say what wonderful progress your making on your schooner.  Your process is well thought out and meticulously executed.  The log is a pleasure to follow and educational as well. Thanks for sharing this with us.
 
Oh - and yes I am envious of your sophisticated sanding devices that you chose to shamelessly flaunt back on post #136.
 
Gary

She’s coming along beautifully John!  An interesting subject, so cleanly crafted.
 
Gary

Beautiful work on this Launch Michael.  The lantern is wonderful and your engine is true craftsmanship to say the least.  Thanks for sharing your work methods, approach and techniques.
 
Gary 

She’s coming along beautifully John!  An interesting subject, so cleanly crafted.
 
Gary

She’s coming along beautifully John!  An interesting subject, so cleanly crafted.
 
Gary

Hello Keith,
 
I just wanted to stick my head in to say what wonderful progress your making on your schooner.  Your process is well thought out and meticulously executed.  The log is a pleasure to follow and educational as well. Thanks for sharing this with us.
 
Oh - and yes I am envious of your sophisticated sanding devices that you chose to shamelessly flaunt back on post #136.
 
Gary

Hello Keith,
 
I just wanted to stick my head in to say what wonderful progress your making on your schooner.  Your process is well thought out and meticulously executed.  The log is a pleasure to follow and educational as well. Thanks for sharing this with us.
 
Oh - and yes I am envious of your sophisticated sanding devices that you chose to shamelessly flaunt back on post #136.
 
Gary

Hello Keith,
 
I just wanted to stick my head in to say what wonderful progress your making on your schooner.  Your process is well thought out and meticulously executed.  The log is a pleasure to follow and educational as well. Thanks for sharing this with us.
 
Oh - and yes I am envious of your sophisticated sanding devices that you chose to shamelessly flaunt back on post #136.
 
Gary

She’s coming along beautifully John!  An interesting subject, so cleanly crafted.
 
Gary

Another small update - the last transom is in and a filling piece has been fitted under the transoms.  This will be the last update for a while as I won't be in the museum for the next two weeks.
 
John
 

 

 

Thank you Keith and John for looking in on my build and for your supportive comments - I appreciate it.
 
And thanks to everyone for hitting the like button.
 
Gary

Hello Michael and John.  Glad to have you looking in. 
 
Some CAD Work
The hull dimensions come from an article by Charles S. Fox published in Ships in Scale magazine (Volume XII, No.1. 2001.)  The article and plans are cursory and give little in the way of details, but is a good place to begin.  The boat is 45’ in length, which equals 11.25” in 1:48
 

This build begins as most POB models do with developing bulkhead stations.  So first I photograph the plans, straighten, clean and brighten them in a photo editor and then import into CAD.  After more adjustments, I scale the images and trace the body plan onto a separate layer.  I then make corrections, apply some line smoothing and mirror the bulkhead halves.
 


 


 

This model is being built upside down, so each bulkhead will have a tab included to reach the platform base.  The length of the tab will of course be different for each station.
 


 

In profile it looks like this.  As per the drawing, each station is 5’ apart.
 


 

The body plan lines are to the top of rail, but I’m redefining that point as the top of stanchions.    The aft deck is 18” lower than that point, so those bulkhead templates are modified to reflect that.  So for example,  #7 station ends up looking like this.
 


 

Finally, I need a way to cut the completed planked hull away from the base.  A horizontal cut through each bulkhead that can be reached with a Dremel cut off saw will do the trick.
 


 

The keel and stem are taken from the drawing and traced.  It is cut into two pieces and arranged to take advantage of grain strength, then rejoined and installed as a single unit.  Later in the build it will be incised to imitate/suggest actual joinery.
 


 

The bulkhead and keel templates are printed onto full sheet labels (blank 8.5 x 11 copy paper with an adhesive reverse side and peel off backing.)  The bulkheads are cut from 3 mm craft plywood.  The templates are arranged so the straight mounting edge lies along the factory edge of the 3 mm plywood.  The transom (station #9) is cut from 1/16” basswood sheet.  This is necessary because the transom has a gentle convex arc and the plywood is too stiff.  The transom will be held in that shape with a temporary form and will eventually have an outer plank layer. The keel/stem is cut from 1/8” basswood.
 
The next post will be the lining off and a compression (not a skip over) of the complete hull planking which will bring this log up to where I am today in real time.
 

Thanks for taking a look.
 
Gary

Thank you Keith and John for looking in on my build and for your supportive comments - I appreciate it.
 
And thanks to everyone for hitting the like button.
 
Gary

Thank you Keith and John for looking in on my build and for your supportive comments - I appreciate it.
 
And thanks to everyone for hitting the like button.
 
Gary

Thanks Keith
 
Lining OFF
Beginning the sawdust phase, I cut the bulkheads out with my scroll saw leaving the piece large (cutting to the outside of the template line.)  I do this because I have no skill with the saw and cannot keep to a line.  I then use a bench top disc sander and work back to the template outline.  This works great with the convex edge and I use a Dremel sanding drum for the inside curves.
 
I glue these forms to the platform base and attach the keel/stem.  Before the keel went on, I cut a rabbet on the stem.
 

 
Using a batten to see how the bulkheads faired, I found a problem.  Station #8 was too small and #7 was ridiculously too large.  Looking back at the body plan it’s hard to see how I missed it.  But, that’s the point of going through the fairing up process.  So, I built up #8 and went after #7 with a file.
 

 
Based on photos and drawings, the planking widths for this vessel seem to vary in the 5” to 7” range.  I have a stash of stripwood that scales to approximately 6.5” wide x 1.75” thick so decided to use those.  Because station #7 has the longest edge length of any bulkhead, it will be the location where the planks are at there full width.  From here they taper to the stem and taper back to the stern.  It will require 23 courses of planks per side.
 
There will be 4 belts per side of 6 planks each.  Belt #1 beginning at the keel will have only 5.  From station #7 back to the stern, 4 planks are lost in belt #1.
 
I measure the length of each station edge and check it against what my CAD drawing says it should be.  Knowing how many planks will be required, I generate the following plank width tick mark strips for each bulkhead edge.
 
  
 
The width of the planks at the bow is just under 5.25” which satisfies the “not less than half” plank width guideline.  No steelers or drops are needed.
 
The strip marks are temporarily taped on the bulkheads and a batten strip is used to get a general sense of the curve following the tick marks.
 

 
Happy with the way it looked, I transferred the tick marks to the stations with pencil and temporarily attached thread at each belt as a final check to see how the plank courses run.  After a few minor modifications, I was ready to start planking. 
 

 
Planking
The coloring and weathering the model will receive will not only reveal but also accentuate the planking on the hull, so I won’t be using any filler or putty.  On a previous model, I planked the hull somewhat haphazardly, knowing that I was going to slather Bondo on it and sand it smooth.  I’m happy with the way the model came out, but it would have been more realistic with the planks showing through the paint.
 

 
I set up a little jig to hold the stripwood firmly in place as I slice the taper into it - then sand to fit

I begin planking at the keel with the garboard and lay on two belts of planks on one side.  Each course is tapered on the upper edge of the planks so that each successive course starts with a straight edge.
 
Each course of planks is made from a single strip of wood.  After it is tapered and test fit, it is then cut to simulate the butt ends of two individual boards.  The joints are reinforced on the reverse side. 
 
Two more belts are added to the other side.

 

 
Then the last 4 belts are added minus the top three courses.
 


 
At this point, I cut the hull from the platform.
 

 

 
The next course of planking requires the scuppers.
 

 
Finally, I sand the hull and finish it off with a soft brass wire brush.  The wire brush removes the sanding shine and any cross grain scratches and in general sort of unifies the look.  It will also help with the weathering later on.
 
These final photos were taken in full direct sunlight in hopes that the effect of the wire brush can be seen.  A few final licks with 800 grit paper will take the remaining wood fuzz off. 
 

 

 
This post brings me up to date in real time on this model.  
 
Thanks for taking a look.
 
Gary
 
 

Hello Michael and John.  Glad to have you looking in. 
 
Some CAD Work
The hull dimensions come from an article by Charles S. Fox published in Ships in Scale magazine (Volume XII, No.1. 2001.)  The article and plans are cursory and give little in the way of details, but is a good place to begin.  The boat is 45’ in length, which equals 11.25” in 1:48
 

This build begins as most POB models do with developing bulkhead stations.  So first I photograph the plans, straighten, clean and brighten them in a photo editor and then import into CAD.  After more adjustments, I scale the images and trace the body plan onto a separate layer.  I then make corrections, apply some line smoothing and mirror the bulkhead halves.
 


 


 

This model is being built upside down, so each bulkhead will have a tab included to reach the platform base.  The length of the tab will of course be different for each station.
 


 

In profile it looks like this.  As per the drawing, each station is 5’ apart.
 


 

The body plan lines are to the top of rail, but I’m redefining that point as the top of stanchions.    The aft deck is 18” lower than that point, so those bulkhead templates are modified to reflect that.  So for example,  #7 station ends up looking like this.
 


 

Finally, I need a way to cut the completed planked hull away from the base.  A horizontal cut through each bulkhead that can be reached with a Dremel cut off saw will do the trick.
 


 

The keel and stem are taken from the drawing and traced.  It is cut into two pieces and arranged to take advantage of grain strength, then rejoined and installed as a single unit.  Later in the build it will be incised to imitate/suggest actual joinery.
 


 

The bulkhead and keel templates are printed onto full sheet labels (blank 8.5 x 11 copy paper with an adhesive reverse side and peel off backing.)  The bulkheads are cut from 3 mm craft plywood.  The templates are arranged so the straight mounting edge lies along the factory edge of the 3 mm plywood.  The transom (station #9) is cut from 1/16” basswood sheet.  This is necessary because the transom has a gentle convex arc and the plywood is too stiff.  The transom will be held in that shape with a temporary form and will eventually have an outer plank layer. The keel/stem is cut from 1/8” basswood.
 
The next post will be the lining off and a compression (not a skip over) of the complete hull planking which will bring this log up to where I am today in real time.
 

Thanks for taking a look.
 
Gary

Thanks Keith
 
Lining OFF
Beginning the sawdust phase, I cut the bulkheads out with my scroll saw leaving the piece large (cutting to the outside of the template line.)  I do this because I have no skill with the saw and cannot keep to a line.  I then use a bench top disc sander and work back to the template outline.  This works great with the convex edge and I use a Dremel sanding drum for the inside curves.
 
I glue these forms to the platform base and attach the keel/stem.  Before the keel went on, I cut a rabbet on the stem.
 

 
Using a batten to see how the bulkheads faired, I found a problem.  Station #8 was too small and #7 was ridiculously too large.  Looking back at the body plan it’s hard to see how I missed it.  But, that’s the point of going through the fairing up process.  So, I built up #8 and went after #7 with a file.
 

 
Based on photos and drawings, the planking widths for this vessel seem to vary in the 5” to 7” range.  I have a stash of stripwood that scales to approximately 6.5” wide x 1.75” thick so decided to use those.  Because station #7 has the longest edge length of any bulkhead, it will be the location where the planks are at there full width.  From here they taper to the stem and taper back to the stern.  It will require 23 courses of planks per side.
 
There will be 4 belts per side of 6 planks each.  Belt #1 beginning at the keel will have only 5.  From station #7 back to the stern, 4 planks are lost in belt #1.
 
I measure the length of each station edge and check it against what my CAD drawing says it should be.  Knowing how many planks will be required, I generate the following plank width tick mark strips for each bulkhead edge.
 
  
 
The width of the planks at the bow is just under 5.25” which satisfies the “not less than half” plank width guideline.  No steelers or drops are needed.
 
The strip marks are temporarily taped on the bulkheads and a batten strip is used to get a general sense of the curve following the tick marks.
 

 
Happy with the way it looked, I transferred the tick marks to the stations with pencil and temporarily attached thread at each belt as a final check to see how the plank courses run.  After a few minor modifications, I was ready to start planking. 
 

 
Planking
The coloring and weathering the model will receive will not only reveal but also accentuate the planking on the hull, so I won’t be using any filler or putty.  On a previous model, I planked the hull somewhat haphazardly, knowing that I was going to slather Bondo on it and sand it smooth.  I’m happy with the way the model came out, but it would have been more realistic with the planks showing through the paint.
 

 
I set up a little jig to hold the stripwood firmly in place as I slice the taper into it - then sand to fit

I begin planking at the keel with the garboard and lay on two belts of planks on one side.  Each course is tapered on the upper edge of the planks so that each successive course starts with a straight edge.
 
Each course of planks is made from a single strip of wood.  After it is tapered and test fit, it is then cut to simulate the butt ends of two individual boards.  The joints are reinforced on the reverse side. 
 
Two more belts are added to the other side.

 

 
Then the last 4 belts are added minus the top three courses.
 


 
At this point, I cut the hull from the platform.
 

 

 
The next course of planking requires the scuppers.
 

 
Finally, I sand the hull and finish it off with a soft brass wire brush.  The wire brush removes the sanding shine and any cross grain scratches and in general sort of unifies the look.  It will also help with the weathering later on.
 
These final photos were taken in full direct sunlight in hopes that the effect of the wire brush can be seen.  A few final licks with 800 grit paper will take the remaining wood fuzz off. 
 

 

 
This post brings me up to date in real time on this model.  
 
Thanks for taking a look.
 
Gary
 
 

Thanks Keith
 
Lining OFF
Beginning the sawdust phase, I cut the bulkheads out with my scroll saw leaving the piece large (cutting to the outside of the template line.)  I do this because I have no skill with the saw and cannot keep to a line.  I then use a bench top disc sander and work back to the template outline.  This works great with the convex edge and I use a Dremel sanding drum for the inside curves.
 
I glue these forms to the platform base and attach the keel/stem.  Before the keel went on, I cut a rabbet on the stem.
 

 
Using a batten to see how the bulkheads faired, I found a problem.  Station #8 was too small and #7 was ridiculously too large.  Looking back at the body plan it’s hard to see how I missed it.  But, that’s the point of going through the fairing up process.  So, I built up #8 and went after #7 with a file.
 

 
Based on photos and drawings, the planking widths for this vessel seem to vary in the 5” to 7” range.  I have a stash of stripwood that scales to approximately 6.5” wide x 1.75” thick so decided to use those.  Because station #7 has the longest edge length of any bulkhead, it will be the location where the planks are at there full width.  From here they taper to the stem and taper back to the stern.  It will require 23 courses of planks per side.
 
There will be 4 belts per side of 6 planks each.  Belt #1 beginning at the keel will have only 5.  From station #7 back to the stern, 4 planks are lost in belt #1.
 
I measure the length of each station edge and check it against what my CAD drawing says it should be.  Knowing how many planks will be required, I generate the following plank width tick mark strips for each bulkhead edge.
 
  
 
The width of the planks at the bow is just under 5.25” which satisfies the “not less than half” plank width guideline.  No steelers or drops are needed.
 
The strip marks are temporarily taped on the bulkheads and a batten strip is used to get a general sense of the curve following the tick marks.
 

 
Happy with the way it looked, I transferred the tick marks to the stations with pencil and temporarily attached thread at each belt as a final check to see how the plank courses run.  After a few minor modifications, I was ready to start planking. 
 

 
Planking
The coloring and weathering the model will receive will not only reveal but also accentuate the planking on the hull, so I won’t be using any filler or putty.  On a previous model, I planked the hull somewhat haphazardly, knowing that I was going to slather Bondo on it and sand it smooth.  I’m happy with the way the model came out, but it would have been more realistic with the planks showing through the paint.
 

 
I set up a little jig to hold the stripwood firmly in place as I slice the taper into it - then sand to fit

I begin planking at the keel with the garboard and lay on two belts of planks on one side.  Each course is tapered on the upper edge of the planks so that each successive course starts with a straight edge.
 
Each course of planks is made from a single strip of wood.  After it is tapered and test fit, it is then cut to simulate the butt ends of two individual boards.  The joints are reinforced on the reverse side. 
 
Two more belts are added to the other side.

 

 
Then the last 4 belts are added minus the top three courses.
 


 
At this point, I cut the hull from the platform.
 

 

 
The next course of planking requires the scuppers.
 

 
Finally, I sand the hull and finish it off with a soft brass wire brush.  The wire brush removes the sanding shine and any cross grain scratches and in general sort of unifies the look.  It will also help with the weathering later on.
 
These final photos were taken in full direct sunlight in hopes that the effect of the wire brush can be seen.  A few final licks with 800 grit paper will take the remaining wood fuzz off. 
 

 

 
This post brings me up to date in real time on this model.  
 
Thanks for taking a look.
 
Gary
 
 

Hello Michael and John.  Glad to have you looking in. 
 
Some CAD Work
The hull dimensions come from an article by Charles S. Fox published in Ships in Scale magazine (Volume XII, No.1. 2001.)  The article and plans are cursory and give little in the way of details, but is a good place to begin.  The boat is 45’ in length, which equals 11.25” in 1:48
 

This build begins as most POB models do with developing bulkhead stations.  So first I photograph the plans, straighten, clean and brighten them in a photo editor and then import into CAD.  After more adjustments, I scale the images and trace the body plan onto a separate layer.  I then make corrections, apply some line smoothing and mirror the bulkhead halves.
 


 


 

This model is being built upside down, so each bulkhead will have a tab included to reach the platform base.  The length of the tab will of course be different for each station.
 


 

In profile it looks like this.  As per the drawing, each station is 5’ apart.
 


 

The body plan lines are to the top of rail, but I’m redefining that point as the top of stanchions.    The aft deck is 18” lower than that point, so those bulkhead templates are modified to reflect that.  So for example,  #7 station ends up looking like this.
 


 

Finally, I need a way to cut the completed planked hull away from the base.  A horizontal cut through each bulkhead that can be reached with a Dremel cut off saw will do the trick.
 


 

The keel and stem are taken from the drawing and traced.  It is cut into two pieces and arranged to take advantage of grain strength, then rejoined and installed as a single unit.  Later in the build it will be incised to imitate/suggest actual joinery.
 


 

The bulkhead and keel templates are printed onto full sheet labels (blank 8.5 x 11 copy paper with an adhesive reverse side and peel off backing.)  The bulkheads are cut from 3 mm craft plywood.  The templates are arranged so the straight mounting edge lies along the factory edge of the 3 mm plywood.  The transom (station #9) is cut from 1/16” basswood sheet.  This is necessary because the transom has a gentle convex arc and the plywood is too stiff.  The transom will be held in that shape with a temporary form and will eventually have an outer plank layer. The keel/stem is cut from 1/8” basswood.
 
The next post will be the lining off and a compression (not a skip over) of the complete hull planking which will bring this log up to where I am today in real time.
 

Thanks for taking a look.
 
Gary