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bruce d

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Everything posted by bruce d

  1. Hello Docker and welcome to MSW from the UK. I also look forward to seeing your build log, it is a spectacular subject.
  2. "The body of the carriage recoils and is run out guided by a groove in the slide, which is pivoted at its outboard end; trucks at its inboard end make it easy to traverse the mounting. If the pivot pin was located inside the gunport – called the ‘inside principle’ – the port could be smaller, but those over the channels might pose a danger to the shrouds from blast; the alternative ‘outside principle’, with the pivot stepped on the outboard edge of the sill, required a larger port, making the crew more vulnerable when reloading." source: https://weaponsandwarfare.com/2020/10/14/the-true-frigate-1748-1778-part-iii/
  3. Welcome to MSW, Mark. It looks like you are off to a good start, looking forward to seeing your log of this working boat.
  4. Nice models! Welcome to MSW from the UK.
  5. Hello rudybob and welcome to MSW from the UK.
  6. John, welcome to MSW from the UK.
  7. Gene, welcome to MSW from the UK.
  8. Rob, welcome to MSW from the UK. I believe the bug bites early, and look forward to seeing your projects.
  9. And they would have jumped at the chance since everything they did was chargeable. What a good and practical point, I'm surprised it hasn't been addressed before (at least to the best of my knowledge).
  10. Very sorry to hear this, Mark, but it sounds like you are tackling the problem the right way. Take it easy, catch up on Netflix and Master and Commander.
  11. Not everybody will agree, but .... File/grind a chisel point on the edge of a box-cutter blade. Put the fret on a piece of hardened glass or smooth steel and then use the chisel-point to shear the connecting tab. Press straight down, worry it a bit and it will leave a clean edge. I used to cut hundreds of etched pieces at a time (in another life, not part of any hobby) and this was the method that gave the best results time after after time. It works for brass and nickel silver, stainless steel too but keep the chisel sharpened. FYI, if you try wood or a cutting mat instead of a steel/glass support there is every chance of distorting the etched piece. There are other ways and I am sure they will be pointed out, so take your pick 🤐.
  12. Johann, sorry to hear the news. Take care, your model is beautiful and we can wait.
  13. Hello Peter, I will be interested in what others have to say since this sheathing is seldom represented on models. You may find the text around page 34 and 35 in this document helpful: TAR in keel construction.pdf
  14. I think he meant a spacer to change the interenal diameter from the FET saw blades 10mm Correct. I made mine but they are available on Ebay. For clarity, the spacer fits into the bore of the new blade and slides onto the arbour. It doesn't have to be tight, just a good sliding fit to keep the new blade dead centre on the arbour.
  15. Hello Dlowder, and a warm welcome from the UK to MSW (a bit after the event but ...) I have a weak spot for cross-sections so hope to see your Victory.
  16. I have seen a table saw with a black rectangle neatly drawn with a Sharpie around the blade area. Inside that rectangle was a smaller red one. If the shop foreman saw anyone with their fingers inside the red border they were, shall we say, 'reminded' of the rules (and their expendable status as employees!)
  17. Hmmmmm. I believe you may find some in stock in USA but I didn't make a note of where. Interesting product, is it possible to re-purpose any of their deck sets that were made for specific vessels?
  18. Alex, have you tried these guys? Planking Spread Sticker Wood Sheet (width 1.0mm) for Wood Sailing Ship (40x15cm Sheet) (bnamodelworld.com)
  19. Happy New Year, hope the Tiger is lucky for you!
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