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bruce d

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Everything posted by bruce d

  1. Can't remember if this has come up before but there is a single drawing in the Danish museum identified as Queen 1769, number D207: Data on D207 is sparse but here it is:
  2. From American Blacksmith, volume 6 (1906): a how-to guide and a bit of historical background.
  3. For what it is worth ... I have a set of Stuart 10v reversing gear drawings if anybody wants them. The drawings are adequate to make the RV mechanism from scratch for the 10v, D10 or I believe the Score (all Stuart Turner items based on the same castings). PM me if interested. free to good home. Bruce
  4. Looks gorgeous. All that 'faffing around' was worth it. Stuart used to (still do?) sell machined sets of this RG, ready to bolt on, but it still needed the meticulous setting-up process you describe. 👍
  5. The file is being drawn across the end grain. It would dig in and tear the wood if used in the opposite direction. May I suggest a quick practice with any old scrap wood laying around? Pretty sure it will be clear and become natural as soon as you get started. HTH Bruce
  6. from "The Woodcarvers of Nova Scotia" by George E G Maclaren.
  7. Hello Slugger, welcome to MSW. 👍
  8. Hmmmmm. I'm intrigued now. May I suggest an email to Pen & Sword? admin@pen-and-sword.co.uk They must know the source.
  9. If it isn't with the image or at the end of the chapter, it is usually a separate table at the back of the book with the acknowledgements/index/reference notes. The passage may have a heading like 'picture credits' or some other wording like 'image sources' but once you start looking it will jump out at you. Not often but sometimes the picture credits are sneaked in at the front of the book before the 'contents'. There is no single format but I'm sure you'll find it. HTH, Bruce
  10. Thank you for a useful and thought-provoking presentation.
  11. I found this bit of trivia in an article on cooperage in rural Britain. It makes perfect sense but still came as 'news' to me: Kinda makes you wonder what the coopers did on the return journey once their lovingly made barrels were filled with rum? Maybe added to their hard-drinking reputations?
  12. Juddson, a very important question when choosing a mill is 'what do you want it to do?'. The mills discussed so far are all good tools for the jobs they were designed to do. However, if you stray a little outside the intended application you may quickly find difficulties: for example, milling scarfs in wood is possible on most model makers mills but not all could handle the stress of machining castings to make a small steam engine. The Unimat SL/DB lathe with the milling column has been used by engineers, watchmakers and model engineers and I have milled cast iron, wood, nylon, steel and brass on mine. There are still plenty of accessories available, new and second-hand, to tailor the tool to your needs. Collet chucks, flycutters etc are still in production. To a lesser degree the same comments apply to the Unimat 3 range. I don't know where you are but they are always available in UK or Europe on auction sites. Yes, I know you didn't ask about lathes but in this case the subjects overlap. Just my opinion, most makes of mills have a fan club and I am sure the other 'teams' will speak up! HTH, Bruce
  13. Two ideas tested and passed in my shop: 1, a pencil as previously discussed but without an attached eraser, just a slip-on wedge shaped type. Works a treat, totally expendable. 2, a flexible sanding block, like this... .. either whole or sliced up to suit the workpiece. Very grippy, also expendable. Like Mark, I got an on-the-job lesson about the attached standard type of eraser but fortunately it was a little less dramatic. 🤐
  14. Hello Dave and welcome to MSW from the UK. Looking forward to seeing these pictures, perhaps the mods will talk you through the process? Regards, Bruce
  15. Very nice setup and very good timing: I have been playing around with fixtures to make a moulding and will now go straight to your method, thanks. One question, if you don't mind? Did you try reversing the arrangement so the cut-off moulding was not between the workpiece and the guide?
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