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Everything posted by bruce d
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Mark, I have no idea why sometimes wood/plywood just decides all on it's own to develop a wriggle. It seems to be more common in thinner pieces. See my Mediator log for my own version of this aggravation. However, i have seen wood develop dark spots after bits of swarf from filling ferrous metals was allowed to rest on the surface long enough to begin oxidizing. After the process began it continued despite the rusting iron having been removed. Hope this isn't the problem because as far as I know there is no cure. I like what you are doing, will keep watching.
- 505 replies
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- vanguard models
- Sphinx
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Byrnes saw fence advice sought
bruce d replied to geneinmurphy's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Others may have something concrete to offer but I would suggest a thorough cleanout of the mating surfaces where the fence grips the table. Unless it has been damaged the fence should (as you know) automatically align at 90 degrees so if it isn't then something is in the way, possibly just a bit of crud stuck in a bad spot on the fence gripping surface. HTH Bruce -
USF Essex by mtbediz - FINISHED - 1:50
bruce d replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Wonderful model, Mustafa, well done. -
Archaeological_evidence_of_the_foremast.pdf
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High torque, really low speed drill
bruce d replied to Brinkman's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
What Mark said. -
I will experiment but it looks like a good way to hold a profile scraper instead of a bevelling blade.
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I intend to raid the scrapbox and make one, looks like a useful gizmo. Thanks!
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
bruce d replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Cool find. Now I want one.- 475 replies
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Brian Lavery wrote a detailed account of how the French Invincible (74) was captured and taken into service as HMS Invincible. This was in Warship 38 & 39 published in 1986.
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Really like the look you have achieved with contrasting wood and painted pieces. The carvings are impressive, hoping for more images up close. Bruce
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On the use of steel parts in modelmaking
bruce d replied to starlight's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
For smaller workpieces try an EPNS spoon or fork from the local yard sale. They are usually well worn and cheap so whatever electroplated silver is left can be wire brushed away. -
On the use of steel parts in modelmaking
bruce d replied to starlight's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Spot on, Roger, one and the same -
Preac thickness sander
bruce d replied to bushman32's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Ron, ebay is your friend here. Get some accurate measurements from the dead one and with a few minutes stabbing away at the ebay listings you will be able to recognize a replacement. On the other hand if there is an engineering supply house within easy reach then ignore me and go straight to them ( as grsjax says in post above). Good luck! -
On the use of steel parts in modelmaking
bruce d replied to starlight's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
If your interest is in using steel for structural purposes, I believe Roger has explained the less troublesome alternatives in the post above. On the other hand, if it is because you want something to look like steel then bear in mind that it's highly unlikely anything on an ocean going craft would have been left in a bare-metal finish: it would have been painted. Still, if you need something to look like natural steel there is a way. Use nickel silver, which despite the name contains neither nickel or silver. It is an alloy, available in sheet form and is used most often in jewellery and cutlery making (it is the NS in EPNS). Of course this is just speculation since I don't know how you were considering using steel in your model. HTH Bruce -
On the use of steel parts in modelmaking
bruce d replied to starlight's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
... and ferric metals will cause discolouration in wood.
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