bruce d
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Everything posted by bruce d
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Looking good. Can I ask what wood you are using for the frames and keel? Or did I miss it?- 433 replies
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A warm welcome from the UK Stama, it is always a pleasure to hear from a real sailor. Please keep us informed when you start building. Regards, Bruce
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Exactly my thoughts. I also have some tung oil which isn't tung oil. It is quite old and doesn't say much on the tin about what else is in there so I would not dare use it on a model. Maybe furniture, but not a model. The video does a good job of explaining the variations, thanks. The reason I homed in on the example you posted is because of the colouring. I would like to knock the 'pink' off of the Swiss pear stock I have. Having confidence I can get the result I want would free me up to use t in areas that will be left bright. As you say, we have some chemists so perhaps there is more to come? Bruce
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I like the look of the right hand example. My one and only half-hearted attempt to add a finish to some Swiss pear was in the hopes of getting the effect you have achieved. With decent weather returning I will be back in the shop and doing a few more experiments, it would be good to know what substitute product over here would give the same effect. Must admit to being stumped by the product name & description if it isn't tung oil. So, a question if you don't mind: what is the Formby's if it isn't tung oil?
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What Bob said. Also, since I'm here, there are a couple of specific points that might underline why I would steer you toward the Unimat SL. First, it is exactly what a small workshop needs all rolled into one. It can be moved around easily. Around 90%+ of what you will need from a lathe/mill for a model ship build can be handled by a DB/SL with a milling column, appropriate cutting tools, a decent 3 jaw chuck and a tailstock chuck providing you have another way of cutting wood to size. The circular saw attachment works very well with a bit of practice but a dedicated saw is better so I hesitate to include it in the 'must-have' list. If you find you need further attachments, they are available. Secondly, they are cheaper in the UK than North America. They hold their value also. One last point: IMHO, to consider a CNC option seems almost like changing the subject. In practice, there would be such a steep learning curve that it would take you away from building the model. CNC is very popular with certain types of model engineers and quite often their background has exposed them to the dark art of setting up and programming but for most people it is hard work and does not always work out as planned. Just my opinion, you will know what feels like the best for you. HTH Bruce 👍
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Hello Ken, welcome to MSW. It is a great place, I look forward to seeing your Syren. Bruce
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Staing the obvious, it appears that the shaft was forced into an undersized collet. Possibly this is not the case and something damaged the correct collet once in place (think of pliers, perhaps mole-grips, you get the idea). Either way, if you do get the collet off, put it straight in the bin. It will never fly again. The collet chuck (nut) may be OK but don't count on it. Since th collet is doomed, soak it in WD40 or or some penetrating oil and then use whatever tools you have to coax it off. The priority is to do no harm to the shaft. HTH
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Is the projecting stub the end of the flexible shaft?
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Druxey: watching this like a hawk and enjoying it. I know I could wait and see, but can I ask about your plan for the stern? Comparing your last photo in #23 above ... ... with the stern shapes in this photo ... ... I take it the shapes do (or will) match. It may be the photos but the subtle hint of tumblehome on the museum piece isn't obvious to me in the plug. Go on, tell me it's there and I am just not seeing it 🤐. Great job so far, looking forward to the next instalment. Bruce
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Before you do anything at all, post a picture. Trust me, my grandfather was a blacksmith. 😁
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... like finding something that leads to someone else building a model!
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https://archive.org/ If it is new to you, be prepared to spend waaaaaaay too much time exploring 🤐
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Pazar caique by mhmtyrl - 1:48
bruce d replied to mhmtyrl's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Mehmet, you have made a great weathered appearance. It has the look of a real working boat. Well done. 👍 -
Ebay is a good research tool. I found 200+ hits for '37lb monofilament' but since it was the Ebay UK site you probably will do better with your local service. There are quite few brand names. As to colour, at .4mm I would expect clear works best. I had black, green and clear available so tried them on some test pieces. Black screamed, the green looked green, but clear was very discreet, sort of 'now you see me-now you don't'. My test pieces were a bit bigger, also I fiddled around with coloured glue but only half-heartedly. Worth a try. HTH Bruce
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Allan, have you considered 37lb monofilament fishing line? 37lb = .4mm
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All the best, take care care of yourself. 👍
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Retired and ready to build my first model!
bruce d replied to lraymo's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome to MSW. It is no surprise that there are a few (!!!!!) other retired folks here so just get comfortable and settle in. Looking forward to a build log, have fun 👍. Bruce -
Ships vs Boats
bruce d replied to Mike from Aus's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
It is a General Purpose vehicle = Jeep 😉 -
There is an unstarted Corel 1/98 Victory 'loft find' on Ebay with a starting price of 99p. Search item number 133720479160 Nothing to do with me, no links, no promises Bruce
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New to the community and wooden models
bruce d replied to Harland Wolff's topic in New member Introductions
Hello Harland Wolff (is there a message in that name? 😉), welcome to MSW from Sussex. It is a great place to learn and get support with those new tasks you will encounter. Hope we see a build log from you. Bruce -
Were the guards actually intended to resist that type of impact? I assumed (I know, assumed = guessed) that the metal guardsover and around skylights spanned wooden slats/beams and their function was to add additional protection, not do the heavy work. This is based on a contemporary model, details long forgotten. It had a metal grating across the skylights clearly in the role described above, cutting out the minimum of light while offering protection against most whoopsies. HTH Bruce
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Alan, the Admiral and I just watched this together and we both give it a massive thumbs up. Many thanks!
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I am going to butt in here. If the MDF is wetted and then clamped as you have shown, drying will be problematic. The only place for the moisture to escape is the exposed edges. This method can bite, and I am speaking from experience. May I suggest you get room temperature air circulating across those wetted surfaces? HTH Bruce
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Hand Saw Recommendations
bruce d replied to Jonathan_219's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you, Mike, for that useful and colourful description. It makes perfect sense. Welcome to the forum, sounds like you have the skills many of us wish for. Why not post an introduction in the 'new members' section? https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/ Regards, Bruce
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