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bruce d

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Everything posted by bruce d

  1. bruce d
    Hello Gus, As Ron said they are legal. Also, they have good customer service. The owner is an enthusiast. HTH Bruce
  2. bruce d
    Hello Alexis, The blue on the brass is left over from the etching process. It was called 'resist' and was the barrier between the etchant and the area of brass that was not to be etched. You may be able to remove it without sandpaper but it is not possible to be certain without knowing exactly which product they used. The blue film was able to 'resist' the powerful etchants so of course it does not just peel off. There are 'etch resist strippers' available for people who make their own printed circuit boards but there is no guarantee that these modern products will work on this old blue product. Very few of the old products are still used because they used aggressive, nasty chemicals so modern resist uses different strippers. Try cellulose thinners if you can, also the type of solvent used by plumbers to bond PVC tubing. If this doesn't work, I am afraid it is time to start sanding. Good luck! HTH Bruce
  3. bruce d
    Job done, now to wait a year. After cutting I sealed the ends with PVA and cleared a bookshelf in my study. Recently I said in another post 'I have too many vices'; well, look at picture #2 and see that I put some of them to use. 😇 Many thanks to all for the advice.
  4. bruce d
    Hello Tom, In case it affects your decision, she was sheathed with wood in the first part of her career when known as Bethia. She was then sold and renamed Bounty and refitted to prepare her for the breadfruit mission. She went straight to the refit after purchase. So, Bounty was coppered but during her time as Bethia she was not. HTH Bruce
  5. bruce d
    My understanding is that the Carron company presented demonstrations of their new product and sought feedback. It had good selling points, such as lower crew requirement and faster rate of fire, and I recall nothing (it has been a while since I read up on it) concerning problems caused by recoil. Before long, Captains wanted this weapon on their vessels. Izzy, can you share the documentation that specifically relates to the Carron policy?
  6. bruce d
    🎼 Always look on the bright side of life 🎼
  7. bruce d
    Hi Mike, I got a 'log-in-required' message when I tried it.
  8. bruce d
    Superb.
  9. bruce d
    Regarding the earlier point about hiding the identity of fireships, I believe one of Cochrane's legitimate complaints about the leadership on the night of the attack on Basque Roads was that the fireships were too far from the target. They were recognised by the French in time to react. See Clive in post#2. Clearly the element of surprise is lost if the fireship stands out either by appearance or actions.
  10. bruce d
    ... and another Spanish gunboat dated 1797. http://ao.sa.dk/ao/data.ashx?bid=31921484
  11. bruce d
    Bit late but ... https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/85102.html This type of gunboat was still in use a few years later in the Barbary wars. Sorry, no book 🙁
  12. bruce d
    Ah! It is not visible to my eyes. Thank you.
  13. bruce d
    Hello Christian, May I ask how the moulds are attached?
  14. bruce d
    👍 Oh boy Allan, your timing is amazing. Thank you. I have nearly completed thawing out my 'on-hold-for-the -winter' build and planking is on my mind. I will judge whether my deck is a success or not by the 'invisibility factor' of where hatches, capstans etc. meet the planking. The goal is to avoid hatches and fixtures appearing to sit on top of the deck or look like they are sitting in a cavity cut out of the planks. Also, a symmetrical run of the planks. In other words, the same issues your post raises. I have a plan but am fully prepared to use the eraser so will be watching this thread. Couldn't find an emoji of someone rubbing their hands in anticipation, so thanks again. Bruce
  15. bruce d
    Thanks to you both. This just about covers my questions. Regards, Bruce
  16. bruce d
    Left middle finger, age nine. Lesson not learned, did it again and again. Still do it.
  17. bruce d
    A very attractive ship, and it is nice to see a French subject. May I ask what wood are you using? Bruce
  18. bruce d
    Hi all. Last week we cut down a healthy sycamore tree. I have set aside some good straight lengths (enough for six lifetimes) of varying diameters and the rest is seasoning for firewood. What is the best way to season the pieces I am keeping for modelmaking? Storage facilities are limited: I could put a couple of small lengths in the garage but the only place I have for the rest is under shelter outside. So, leave it as cut? Remove the bark? Or what? I have found contradictory instructions online and think the MSW collective experience will produce the best answer. Thanks in advance, Bruce
  19. bruce d
    It would help a lot to know exactly how you are doing the cutting. What is the set up on the table, whether you are using the fence alone, have you checked the fence is square etc. It's a Byrnes. 👍 The answer is somewhere in the details ...
  20. bruce d
    Hello Ron, The Hyuda spec includes a variable speed 200w motor. This sounds like a good thing but what it doesn't mention is the drive system. Proxxon ads always boast of their toothed drive and the Hyuda doesn't mention any thing about this part of the saw. It might be a good idea to find out what drive the Hyuda offers, especially since it has a variable speed function. The only grumble I ever heard directly from a Proxxon FET owner was that it didn't have enough power. When I saw what he was trying to do I understood the problem. The FET is not a miniature sawmill for oak and ebony, so don't overload it. I may get another FET one day strictly to get the tilting blade feature which the Byrnes does not have. HTH Bruce
  21. bruce d
    Hello Skully, that is a nice looking model, I like how you have created textures with the wood. Well done 👍
  22. bruce d
    Hello Lolol, and welcome to MSW. That is a beautiful piece of history, I wonder if there is a story behind it? May I suggest you post in the new members section and introduce yourself? It is here: https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/ Regards, Bruce
  23. bruce d
    Absolutely. I used a couple of slitting saws with a home-made spacer to fit the spindle.
  24. bruce d
    Search 'Byrnes' on this site and you will find a lot of hits and an overwhelming mass of positive feedback. I used to have a Proxxon FET, now I have a Byrnes. The Byrnes is the best saw for modelmaking in the world. However, I have to say that the FET is a good saw and was more than adequate for every job I threw at it. Also, it has a tilting blade feature. If you are able to get a Byrnes saw and want the best, go for it. The FET is cheaper and a lot of very good models have been made using it. I may get another FET one day if the price is right just to get the tilting blade feature. You can PM Jim Byrnes from this forum. His username will come up in some of the hits when you search 'Byrnes'. I am sure some of the more experienced members will add their endorsement of the Byrnes, but the FET should not be ignored. Hope this helps, Bruce
  25. bruce d
    Is there an advantage to using the wax? I have used it in the past for furniture but never considered it for modelmaking. My impression, based on the product I used, is that it would be tricky to control for the tiny cavities and seams associated with planking. If there is a practical reason for using the wax instead of glue/dust mixture, I would be interested. It could give quite a few colour possibilities.

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