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bruce d

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Everything posted by bruce d

  1. bruce d
    👍 Fantastic.
  2. bruce d
    Mind if I look over your shoulder? BTW, I am sending you via PM the original PDF from which I took the article. There is no additional information there but you may want to see if the photographs can be enlarged any further for details.
  3. bruce d
    That is exactly what a 'service representative' said when I complained about an expensive machine that broke in the 1980's. Good thing I married a lawyer.🤐
  4. bruce d
    Beautiful work, Matiz.
  5. bruce d
    Hello Mauro and welcome to MSW from chilly southern England. Very nice engine, looking forward to seeing more of your work.
  6. bruce d
    Christian, I hope you show us your progress from time to time. Your work is so interesting, of course we want more! 👍 Best wishes, Bruce
  7. bruce d
    I can't help with your question but am sure someone will. In the meantime, hello and welcome to MSW from the UK.
  8. bruce d
    Also, this should be useful to understand the placement of a hance. From 'Naval Architecture' by John Knowles 1822:
  9. bruce d
    I was totally wrong. Turns out the cut-out, called a hance, indicates a step in the dimensions of the rudder. From Steel: This is pretty much in line with the comments from experienced members earlier in the thread.
  10. bruce d
    I thought that feature at the top of the rudder was to allow a yoke to be dropped in place for emergency steering.
  11. bruce d
    This may help. Below is a detail from a drawing showing how sternposts were connected to keels in Woolwich shipyard (circa 1820). The subject is a 74 gun ship. A bit later than your subject Don, hope it helps.
  12. bruce d
    My stash is complete, I can't see how I will need more. I know some of these old measuring sticks are collectable and steer away from them. The ones that really should have been thrown out because of wear & tear are good enough for harvesting. Oh boy, things ain't what they used to be. He sent you blanks?!?! Nowadays I would expect the response to be a law suit for snooping into trade secrets. The wood in my rulers marked 'boxwood' is harder than Castello. A broken yardstick from around 1900 is the hardest of the pieces I have so far cut.
  13. bruce d
    Hello Tony, you did not misunderstand my question 👍 but I am not the original poster. I think the OP wanted to know the same thing as me: if I am looking at an old ruler, how do I know if it is boxwood? It sure helps if it says 'boxwood' on the ruler, but otherwise, as far as I know, it is the hardness of the wood that distinguishes it from the softer Castello, and it is the grain that tells you it is an unamed hardwood. Both of these points say what it is not, neither is a way of confirming what it is. I have a stash of rulers. All the ones I got pre-lockdown, when I was able to fondle them in a shop, are the real deal. Most of the ones I got off fleabay are also proper old boxwood but a couple have sneaked through. One of them is hard, practically without a visible grain and very nice to cut/carve. However, the wood once exposed is a pink-ish colour and I just don't believe it is boxwood. So, to get back to @Smile-n-Nod's question and with apologies for the hi-jack, what is the feature of boxwood that distinguishes it from the rest of the woods and made it so popular with modelmakers in times gone by?
  14. bruce d
    Sooooo... how do we tell the difference? Is it only by comparing the hardness against Castello?
  15. bruce d
    Hello Ben and welcome from the UK. I look forward to your build log, have fun. Bruce
  16. bruce d
    Alex, I would suggest using fine wire wool instead of sandpaper. Be patient and you will probably get a surface finish that will be ready for painting.
  17. bruce d
    Please let us know how it works out for you.
  18. bruce d
    B.E., I did a double-take when I saw those weights. You are fearless. Looking good ✔️
  19. bruce d
    Hello Graham and a warm welcome to MSW. It looks like there may have been a hiccup with your picture, nothing is visible. What is the kit? Since you got it 'some years ago' it is possible it has been updated so if you have the manufacturers model number from the box that might help also. Regards, Bruce
  20. bruce d
    Nice job on the reversing gear. It all looks like a working piece of machinery. 👍
  21. bruce d
    Looking good 👍
  22. bruce d
    Hello Gus, As Ron said they are legal. Also, they have good customer service. The owner is an enthusiast. HTH Bruce
  23. bruce d
    Hello Alexis, The blue on the brass is left over from the etching process. It was called 'resist' and was the barrier between the etchant and the area of brass that was not to be etched. You may be able to remove it without sandpaper but it is not possible to be certain without knowing exactly which product they used. The blue film was able to 'resist' the powerful etchants so of course it does not just peel off. There are 'etch resist strippers' available for people who make their own printed circuit boards but there is no guarantee that these modern products will work on this old blue product. Very few of the old products are still used because they used aggressive, nasty chemicals so modern resist uses different strippers. Try cellulose thinners if you can, also the type of solvent used by plumbers to bond PVC tubing. If this doesn't work, I am afraid it is time to start sanding. Good luck! HTH Bruce
  24. bruce d
    Job done, now to wait a year. After cutting I sealed the ends with PVA and cleared a bookshelf in my study. Recently I said in another post 'I have too many vices'; well, look at picture #2 and see that I put some of them to use. 😇 Many thanks to all for the advice.
  25. bruce d
    Hello Tom, In case it affects your decision, she was sheathed with wood in the first part of her career when known as Bethia. She was then sold and renamed Bounty and refitted to prepare her for the breadfruit mission. She went straight to the refit after purchase. So, Bounty was coppered but during her time as Bethia she was not. HTH Bruce

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