Tim Murphy

Please, who cares whether this is the correct rig or not! This is a damm fine model that I could never do. I admire Druxey’s skill that is the top of the hobby.
Lets not over analyze this model to death. It is a great piece of building!
Tim

Please, who cares whether this is the correct rig or not! This is a damm fine model that I could never do. I admire Druxey’s skill that is the top of the hobby.
Lets not over analyze this model to death. It is a great piece of building!
Tim

Please, who cares whether this is the correct rig or not! This is a damm fine model that I could never do. I admire Druxey’s skill that is the top of the hobby.
Lets not over analyze this model to death. It is a great piece of building!
Tim

Gary, the Northeast Ship Model Conference will be held this October 2nd, Saturday 2021 at the Port 'N' Starboard Banquet center, New London,CT.
It would be a real treat to see your Stonington Trawler at this show. It is one of the finest models that i have ever seen and should be showed.
It you are interested please note the web site address (www.usscmsg.org/nsmc). I hope to see you there.
Tim Murphy

Gary, the Northeast Ship Model Conference will be held this October 2nd, Saturday 2021 at the Port 'N' Starboard Banquet center, New London,CT.
It would be a real treat to see your Stonington Trawler at this show. It is one of the finest models that i have ever seen and should be showed.
It you are interested please note the web site address (www.usscmsg.org/nsmc). I hope to see you there.
Tim Murphy

It looks very good and modelers will use it for other sail models of this period.
It does not look rough! It’s quite presentable.
One question, why is it on the main deck? Should it not be on the lower berthing deck?

It looks very good and modelers will use it for other sail models of this period.
It does not look rough! It’s quite presentable.
One question, why is it on the main deck? Should it not be on the lower berthing deck?

They moved it up to the gun deck.  It was a real mistake to have it on the lower deck.  They did the same with the pumps.  This was indicated on the original draft and other primary notations.  Its another difference between the contemporary model.   Changes shown in red....I have a few of these showing the update.
 

 
Chuck

Sorry, To say the only piece of equipment that I have is  Byrnes saw. No drill press or milling machine. The saw was expensive enough.

Sorry, To say the only piece of equipment that I have is  Byrnes saw. No drill press or milling machine. The saw was expensive enough.

Sorry, To say the only piece of equipment that I have is  Byrnes saw. No drill press or milling machine. The saw was expensive enough.

I was always a fan of Horatio Hornblower mini series. I hope this will be as good
I am in!

I was always a fan of Horatio Hornblower mini series. I hope this will be as good
I am in!

I was always a fan of Horatio Hornblower mini series. I hope this will be as good
I am in!

I was always a fan of Horatio Hornblower mini series. I hope this will be as good
I am in!

Toni, thank you very much for a very interesting project.
Tim

Your build shows your skill and how good a kit Chris at Vanguard has made!
Bravo Zulu!
Tim

Your build shows your skill and how good a kit Chris at Vanguard has made!
Bravo Zulu!
Tim

I decided to add one final update to depict the Alert cased up. I didn't quite realize that it would take me three months to put together a case for the Alert, but time has a way of marching on. I first tracked down some acrylic sheets for the top of the case. Using a jig to keep the pieces in place I applied a liquid called Weld-on 4 to fuse the pieces of acrylic together. After the top had set for several day I removed the protective backing paper from the acrylic. During the backing removal I found out that I overdid the Weld-on in a two areas and the adhesive from the backing etched itself into the acrylic. I may try to polish it out, but I my not for fear of making things worse (and it is on the back and the side of the case so not terribly noticeable to anyone but me). After creating the covering I moved onto the base.
 
I will start this off by saying I used a method that I saw on MSW to build a base with a rebate (rabbit?) without a router. I bought two pieces of plywood and a strip of molding (the molding was the combined height of the two pieces of plywood). I cut down the plywood to the size of the top of the case. I don't have a large table saw, so I attempted to use my circular saw to cut the rectangles out of the plywood sheet. I quickly learned that I need a bit more practice with the saw as I failed to cut rectangular pieces. There were close enough though (and lumber prices have risen so much since I bought those sheets that I wasn't about to toss them) so I pressed on. I then trimmed off the edges of the top sheet to account for the width of the plexiglass and attached the sheets together. I then attached the molding around the edges, applied some protecting poly and was done. All said I'm pretty happy with a first attempt.
 

I have added Vanguard's 18 ft cutter to the display (the first edition) and I have also realized that I never added the Alert name plates anywhere - I suppose there's always one more thing 🙂 but this is the final "build" post of the log. Eventually, I'll start another log - I'm currently still hacking away at the NRG half hull but we are preparing for a local move this summer and I'll need to hold off on anything not currently started until after that.
 

That's a really neat case Tim. You've tempted me to have a go at making my own for Speedy (when I eventually finish it!).
 
Derek

Toni, thank you very much for a very interesting project.
Tim

Toni, thank you very much for a very interesting project.
Tim

True, but I've never had one break on me like surgical scalpel blades are won't to do. There is an advantage to the heavier gauge metal of hobby knife blades. By the way, surgeons will generally only make a couple of cuts with a scalpel before exchanging it for a new sharp one. Scalpels aren't designed to hold their really sharp edges for any more than about that.
 
It's odd, but nobody's mentioned sharpening hobby knife blades. A fine sharpening stone, or a leather or MDF stropping wheel charged with green polishing abrasive, or even some fine sandpaper, will put a new razor-sharp edge on a hobby knife blade in seconds. I have a very old Arkansas sharpening stone which was designed for sharpening old fashioned straight razors. I use it to keep a sharp edge on my hobby knives. It works fine.

The worst blades are E-xato blades. Your lucky if they hold a edge for two cuts. Excel blades are better. I will look and try SM. Thanks for the info!
Tim

The worst blades are E-xato blades. Your lucky if they hold a edge for two cuts. Excel blades are better. I will look and try SM. Thanks for the info!
Tim