Tim Curtis

Starting to look like a warship

I has been forever since my last post but I have two excuses.  The first (painful) reason I back in December I agreed to restore a clipper ship model for a friend.  Yes, I know..."just say no".  But I was suckered into it, not realizing that every stick needed work and every piece of rigging needed replacing.  Two hundred plus hours later I am done and can concentrate on Atalanta again.  
 
The second excuse is that the next items to make are the main rails of the head.  This has been the hardest part to fabricate, bar none.  They are not finished yet and they are far from perfect but so far I have put in over 40 hours over the last month trying to get them as close to OK as I can.  The first step is to develop the shape for the main rail.  TFFM describes how to make a projection drawing from the plans.  Once the shape of the rail had been roughly determined, I made a template and fit this to the model.  I used cardstock which, in retrospect, was not stiff enough.  After the final shape is determined, the individual pieces must be cut out.  The main rail is comprised of five scarfed pieces.  There is a lining to the main rail which is made of three scarfed pieces.  First I made the main rail and then the lining was made by gluing the pieces directly onto the main rail.  This is the easiest part of the whole process. 
 
Now comes the real fun.  There is a reasonably complex molding cut into the main rail.  In addition, the rail tapers in width and thickness so the molding changes continuously along the rail. Finally, scrapers work best on a straight line, not on a curved object.  I made two scrapers, one for the aft third and one for the middle third of the rail.  The fore end of the rail was cut in with micro-chisels and needle files.  I spoiled a few rails before I finished two that look reasonable.  Since the port and starboard rails are mirror images, the whole scraping motion is different on the two sides.   There are two step-downs on the aft part of the rail.  The first one goes down to the level of the rail without the planksheer and the second is where the molding starts.
 

 

 
The ascending (aft) portion of the main rail is supposed to be perpendicular to the water line and the fore end blends into the top of the hair bracket.  You notice that I say "supposed to".  This is where I have gotten into a little trouble.  I believe my template was not stiff enough and the angle of rise of the tapering end was not great enough.  Consequently, my ascending portion is not quite perpendicular.  After so many hours of work, the thought of redoing them was more than I could handle.  The aft end of the rail has a score in it for the cathead.  Two drill holes are placed after temporarily gluing the pieces in place.  Later these holes will accept wire bolts for security.
 

 

 

 

 
The next step is to make the timberhead, now that I have the height correct.

I finished the Morgan today!
Put up the last two whaleboats, added some rope coils to the cleated lift lines, and did a small bit of touch up painting. It really is a very busy model, and especially so with any added detailing.
I'll take comprehensive pictures once I set up some good lighting and a backdrop and post them in the gallery.
 
Now I need to decide on the next project, with the following on my shelf: Confederacy, Gunboat Philadelphia, Mortar Vessel Granado, Echo X-section, and English Pinnace (oof - how did I collect this much stuff while building the Morgan?)
I have an empty full size case since I gave away a Victory model I bought but did not build into which the Morgan will go so the case I got for the Morgan is empty. Which argues for the Granado or Philadelphia, but the x-section is muttering to me from its shelf.
 
I'll just bask in finishedness for a bit and decide later.
 

The practicum would have you glue in place the rails with the required spacing to create openings for the rowlocks. Then it would have you custom fit cut styrene flat pieces to create the locks. I did it differently.
 
Because the rowlock had to be in specific positions, I installed the first set beginning at the bow end. The rails at the bow were pre-bent to the required curve and custom fitted between the stem and the first rowlock. The next set was done the same way; install the lock first, then the rail till the final rail was installed reaching the transom.

I'm still plugging away, an hour here and an hour there. It's summertime and the basement workshop gets moist and unpleasant. So I keep the model on the dining room table (I'm on borrowed time with that), and carry it downstairs when I work on it.
 
I'm literally tying up loose ends - coils. I'm down to my last 10 or 12 of them, all at the bow. After than, I just have to put in the swivel guns and the flagstaff on the stern, and it will be done.
 
I'm starting to think about a display case, and am realizing it involves tools I don't own.
 
All the bites that hold the coils together are real; I made them the way I was taught when I was first learning to sail. As everyone here surely knows, getting them to lay or hang naturally is no small trick. Here's what it looks like. 
 

Thank you druxey.
Deck planking is done. It remains only treenaling.

I am contemplating for my next build either the Caldercraft Diana or Model Shipways Essex. Both have Anatomy of the Ship monographs available, and Lennarth Petersson's book with all its wonderful details about rigging the frigate Melampus would also be highly informative for both. Both have wonderful build logs available on this site. Which should I choose? 
Any thoughts?

Big moment.
The whaleboats are finished with the content they will have when mounted - oars, spars/sail wrap, and paddles.
Next is to retrieve the Morgan from her case in the living room and mount the boats, hopefully without snapping a davit for the umpteenth time.
So close to done now I can taste it, but will have to wait as we have a week in Napa coming up.
Thanks to all for the comments and likes on the boats. The effort to have the details match the work on the mother ship was really worth it, and was quite fun once the hull carving was completed.
My advice to all Morgan builders - use work on the whaleboats as a break from the main construction so that only the fun stuff remains at the end.
 

The whaleboats are now done except for the rudders. Today finished the rigging of the steering oar braces, added the steering oar rests, two cleats inside rail aft, and did some touch-up.
I'm not sure if I'll give the boats a coat of white (below the rubbing strips) since I kind of like the weathered and beaten look of the primer coat.
Tomorrow, detailing the rudders and deciding on the rigging of the 2 lines that suspend them in the stored position.
 

Here's one boat with the finished thwarts in place. I decided to go for stain over paint both to give some sense of weathering and to highlight rather than hide the construction of each thwart. The details just draw the eyes. I find myself grabbing it and just gazing when walking by the shipyard.
Now to bring the other four up to this level, and then add a bit of inside detail hardware to each - pull for the centerboard in the up position, and some approximation of the brass support/hinge for the mast support. That will likely be painted paper with small rod taking the place of the hinge.
These really are little projects in and of themselves, but they are so visible on the finished ship that to shortchange the detail and/or put oars and spars/sail in that are clearly out of scale in thickness would really detract from the model. Since I've spent so long on the ship itself, putting some extra time into these is worthwhile.
Probably 4-5 hours to construct and finish the thwarts for one boat including interval drying time.

Slow but sure.
Turns out the limiting factor is deciding how much detail to include in these little whaleboats.
I've finished the interior and painted the interior details and the ceiling boards.
Now on to the thwarts - as I know from my New Bedford Whaleboat build years ago these are more complicated than simple planks.
We'll see how much translates to this scale and my ability to work with itty-bitty parts.
The rail ended up a bit too thick but I can live with that.

Thomas, Bob, Eamonn, Pat and Mark (nice to have you back!) - thanks for the comments guys and the likes, I very much appreciate your interest.
 
The upper counter and the proof of the pudding...
 
Finally plucked up the courage to attach the stern fascia, really have done about as much on this as I can before fitting, and any final adjustments should be done in place to get a proper feel for the various lines and angles and how this will fit with the side galleries (esp. out edge and gunports).  Epoxy was used for maximum strength, so it better be right.  It all went pretty painlessly as the placement had already been determined.
 
Then comes the upper counter...this should simply fit between the edge of the upper counter and the stern fascia.  I have been planning to use a single piece of 1mm pear for this (I think the kit instructions indicate for this to be planked) and I didn't relax for the whole weekend while I worked on this part.  Philosophically, it is what   it is at this point as I had done everything I could think of to ensure this fitted well. 
 
After making a template for the upper counter and leaving material to allow for fine tuning, the lower edge of the stern fascia (where the upper counter rail will go), was chamfered back to receive the upper counter and ensure the correct angle to the vertical along its length.
 

The edge of the upper counter was then gradually chamfered to meet this angle.  I found using a razor blade scraper a very effective way to do this as it kept a nice flat profile and allow the angle with the stern fascia to be followed easily.  I had painted the upper counter prior to this process to give a better feel for the shape during this process.  (The lower edge was simply masked so the lower counter rail can be glued more easily as I prefer to use PVA glue).  The profile at the end shows how this fitted together.
 

Only one potential problem remained.  The face with the join needs to be the same width as the upper counter rail (3mm) which required many, small adjustments.  See photo below for how the various rails will be positioned.

This is not glued yet, but the overall I was very happy with the way this turned out, and 2 small pegs are all that's needed to keep it in position.  Before this is attached I need to figure out how to apply the name, at this point I'm leaning toward painting this.  I've been playing with some templates made in Powerpoint to just get a sense for size and alignment.  This is Time New Roman, 50pt font with y-rotation of 340% and 100% perspective adjustment.  I now feel I have proper ship under construction.
 
As always, suggestions welcome!
 

 

Thanks to all for your kind words. Thoroughly enjoying rigging. It's my favourite bit. Every separate line and block is like a little model of its own!

Back for more, eh? 
 
There's rain in tomorrow's forecast so we might get a thing or two done.
 
For now - I'm back again 

Ok then promised pictures - in a bit - I need to ramble.
I have learned a few things doing the Fore Shrouds and Ratlines.
No coffee or alcohol, they both lead to poor results and additional redo's. There are enough of those to begin with. As I commented earlier I have had issues getting that first knot tied correctly. I found if I take my Third Hands and extend them all the way up I can use that as a crutch to hold the end of the line. It makes tying that first knot faster and easier for me. I am still learning how to keep a consistent swag in the ratlines, the Fore lines are better than the Main but as you can see in the close up some are still a bit flat. I think once I have finished the Port side I will have to go back and redo a few on both masts. I am not going to try to get them perfect just a little more consistent..
 
Ok then pictures.
 

 

 

Finally another update. The ship is completed, I am now working on the boats. My intention is to mount one of the boats on the Skid Beams one on the Davits and the other two on support cradles alongside Victory in the display case when that is made. I will need to tension the Main Stay tackle pendants when the boat is secured to the skid beams. I will post more photos when the whole task is finished. Meanwhile here are some photos of where I'm at now.
 
 
 

I have continued to cut the timberheads/bulwark stanchions from the tops of the frames, and have all 32 frames done now.  I did not exactly follow the recommended order in the instructions; here's how I did it.
 
1. Marked all frames to indicate the height of the stanchion/depth of the cut down from the top.
2. Used a scrap of 1/8th" basswood from an earlier project to create a simple jig of sorts.  I cut a couple notches in it to help hold the frames in place as I made the cut down from the top.  Then, holding the frame and basswood jig against the table, and the saw against the jig, I cut down from the top of the frame to the mark.  I made sure to always have the "aft" side of the frame down against the table (well, not really....I made that mistake once, and after that I made sure to always have the aft side down!)
 
3.  I then cut down on my mark to free that top half bit of the frame, and made another mark showing the width of the stanchion.

4. Then I cut on the new mark, and made one last small horizontal cut to free the remaining bit of wood.  On some frames I did a little bit of additional shaping or clean up using the carving knife or sandpaper.
 
And here is the end result....the frames are all still just "dry-fit" into the keel so are not all lined up correctly.  Finally I am just about ready to glue the frames to the keel.  I need to get some supplies for a "framing jig" that I have a mental image of, to help me get everything square and true.
 

 

Dry Fitting the Frames
 
Yay, it is starting to look like something.  I pretty much have the frames to their final shape inside and out (minus carving out the timberheads/bulwarks stanchions from the top 3/8ths of an inch or so), and have press-fit them into the notches in the keel to get an idea of what it will look like.  Obviously when I glue them in I will be much more careful about getting them straight and level.  I still need to do some work on the keel before that, such as carving the rabbet and tapering the keel a bit.  

Love what you are doing with this build. I followed the kits instructions on how she was rigged but I like how you have doe it better. Wish I had done mine this way!
 
Jesse

Tim.
Just found your build log. YES your life boat is excellent work indeed (along with its Scottish Maid). I will bring a chair and follow along as well.
I am so impressed with builder skills with such small scale detailing. 
 
PS: Love that coin. Your country is on my list for visits (:-)
 
Regards,

Thanks for the likes JesseLee amd Heronguy

I have completed topmast shrouds and backstays. Begun the long slow process of adding the ratlines. Spend many happy hours listening to Winston Churchill's history of the second world war on Audible whilst doing it. Utterly relaxing. Most wonderful escapism. Here are the current results.

I have completed topmast shrouds and backstays. Begun the long slow process of adding the ratlines. Spend many happy hours listening to Winston Churchill's history of the second world war on Audible whilst doing it. Utterly relaxing. Most wonderful escapism. Here are the current results.

finished 7 planks up from the wale on Stbd side.

Hello all. I managed to get the keel and cap rail installed and gave it its first coat of white.