garyshipwright
-
Posts
934 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from hollowneck in HMS Sphinx 1775 by mtaylor - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Hi Mark. Hope your starting to feel better and getting back to work on Sphinx which by the way is looking great. Keep up the good work. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from Edwardkenway in HMS Winchelsea 1764, by Gary B
Hello just a small update to the planking.
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from Glen McGuire in HMS Sphinx 1775 by mtaylor - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64
Hi Mark. Hope your starting to feel better and getting back to work on Sphinx which by the way is looking great. Keep up the good work. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Hi Ken. Hope these are some help to you. If you want a better photo of in a different place on her let me know will you please. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from Knocklouder in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Hi Ken. Hope these are some help to you. If you want a better photo of in a different place on her let me know will you please. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from catopower in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Ken usually the garboard strake next to the keel is a little on the finicky side. It widen's at the stern post and decreases at the stem. You don't want it getting to far up the stem and usually doesn't go to far past the joint between the stem and the keel, maybe 6 inches. but each boat and ship are different here. Once you get that one to your liking the rest of them should be a lot easier. If I get a chance I will take a photo of the one am doing on my Winchelsea which may be of some help to you. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from catopower in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from yvesvidal in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Hi Ken. Hope these are some help to you. If you want a better photo of in a different place on her let me know will you please. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from bruce d in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Hi Ken. Hope these are some help to you. If you want a better photo of in a different place on her let me know will you please. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HMS Montague 1779 by garyshipwright - 74-gun Alfred-class
Well good sir's I just about have the forward capstan completed, just need to add a few more items to the upper capstan and then I can get started on the main one. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from jansmiss in HMS Montague 1779 by garyshipwright - 74-gun Alfred-class
Thanks Mark and druxey. Here is another up date and this time we go deep in to the hull of the Montagu Once all of the sanding and fairing on the hull was done, now it was time to add some strength to the frames other then the tempory ribbands. In this set of photo's one will see the thickstuff laid out on the joints of the frames along with the orlop and gun deck clamp. It also shows that the main mast step, keelson and the limber stakes were also added. One will see the breast hooks which was made of pear fitted at the bow, but I really didn't like the dark color of them so they were changed out to boxwood, as you can see in the one photo. Enjoy the photo's guys.
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from jansmiss in HMS Montague 1779 by garyshipwright - 74-gun Alfred-class
Here is a few more of the frame build up.
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from allanyed in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Ken usually the garboard strake next to the keel is a little on the finicky side. It widen's at the stern post and decreases at the stem. You don't want it getting to far up the stem and usually doesn't go to far past the joint between the stem and the keel, maybe 6 inches. but each boat and ship are different here. Once you get that one to your liking the rest of them should be a lot easier. If I get a chance I will take a photo of the one am doing on my Winchelsea which may be of some help to you. Gary
-
garyshipwright reacted to Beckmann in HMS Winchelsea by Beckmann 1/48
Thank you all for the likes and comment.
I finished chapter 8 with the front panel installed on the model.
Looking forward to all the nice features on the upper decks wich com next!!
Matthias
-
garyshipwright reacted to marsalv in Le Gros Ventre by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:48 - POF
Small adjustments to the masts, preparation of parts for the masts and tops - fishes, crosstrees, trestletrees, cheeks, caps.
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from KenW in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Ken usually the garboard strake next to the keel is a little on the finicky side. It widen's at the stern post and decreases at the stem. You don't want it getting to far up the stem and usually doesn't go to far past the joint between the stem and the keel, maybe 6 inches. but each boat and ship are different here. Once you get that one to your liking the rest of them should be a lot easier. If I get a chance I will take a photo of the one am doing on my Winchelsea which may be of some help to you. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from yvesvidal in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20. When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from allanyed in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary
-
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.
Thanks Druxey. I was sort of a newbe to the party and showed you a photo of my Richard. Of course some one forgot to tell me who the real ship builders were at that time. 😲It was a lot of fun and I will be glad when the NRG has another one in either place, which would make me one happy camper. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.
Kurt you may ask Jim when you get ready to send it to him about keeping those parts for the Preac saw. He has a big heart about this thing's. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from Canute in New 18"x10" table top for the Byrnes table saw.
Hi Kurt. I got my Preac in 2000 I believe at the Chicago NRG conference or was it the the Mariner's Museum can't remember which one. Charlie was still with us and we talked about his saw and getting one. Also meet David and Greg there with my daughter and misses. Believe she was 2. Do remember some one wasn't happy that we had brought our daughter to the conference, but every thing turned out ok. I also went to the 2010 which I believe was the Chicago one. What your seeing is just a piece of wood that is setting between the fence and blade which is for keeping the blade from cutting in to the fence. I did do one Mod to my Preac once I had all the pieces. My Byrnes saw came with the first mic that Jim installed on them which I got from him in 2002. When I sent my table in to Jim I had removed the old mic and rail along with its brackets from the table and mounted it to the Preac. You have to drill holes and thread them for the brackets, which keeps the rail in place, but it wasn't to bad at all. It worked good until I sold it to a good friend who brought it for his shop. I had them set up like you have your's for doing different cutting but I didn't use it much and figure selling it at a cost one could afford it, would be worth while. He also brought the hog and shipping which cost sometimes more then what you want for it just stop good folks from buying them if they lived to far away.
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20. When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from Bill Morrison in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Hi Allan. You must be talking about the transom and the counter timber's David has a good article in vol 2 of his TFFM book, page 9/11. EdT also has a good article in his book of the Naiad Frigate vol two chapter 20. When I built Montague/Alfred I followed John Franklin articles in Model Shipwright Part 2 page 29. Just a ideal on how to get the curve aft and the curve up, first make the curve up on the right size piece of wood, thickness wise and then cut out the curve aft. I added some photo's that might help you. Gary
-
garyshipwright got a reaction from KenW in Mary of Norfolk 1790 by KenW - Finished - Pilot Boat
Hi Ken. You may of already did this but what about breaking your hull up in to belt's. Am building Chuck's Winchelsea and he breaks up the hull below the wale in to 4 belt's of planking. Once you find the belts just take and using very fine tape, mark off the placement of that belt. Am using 1/64 that I got off of amazon and the belts are really making it so much easier planking the hull. Once you have your belt's located you can break each belt down to the number of plank's that will cover that belt, using a propotional divider or tick strip. Just look down the hull on that belt line and you will see where it needs to be adjusted. Take a tick strip and mark out the width of the belt, then using a planking fan you can find the number of planks in that belt. I like using a propotional divider because for me it's more accurate then using a tic strip because some times I make my tick mark's a little on the thick side. That really makes the plank a little on the wide side. Hope this is of some help to you good sir. Gary
Our Emblem ®
