Heronguy

1st planking was completed a while ago and 2nd planking is well underway.
 





 
The challenge with the 2nd planking was clamping around the stern where the filler block didn't allow the clamp jaws to rest.  Since the filler block will be removed in a future step it seemed far to cut a channel now to provide clamping surface.


 
When that wouldn't work I tried elastics to provide some clamping force.

 
But soon the clamps wouldn't work.  On this site I recently read (and of course forgot to note from whom I got the idea) that using a planking iron to heat the plank accelerated the setting of the wood glue.  This turned out to be a brilliant idea.  I've been using it to attach each of the 100mm planks.  It takes about 10-15 seconds for the adhesive to set.  It works especially well on the curvy bits.  I think the moisture in the PVA glue, when heated, helps the wood to adopt the shape of the surface it is pressed on.  I have not used any CA adhesive.
 
Thank you ?????  I wish I could find the post I read to give proper credit. I am grateful!  Planking has just reached past the waterline.  All the planks so far are full width.  I'll shape the ones from here to the keel as required with the likelihood of some stealers and/or drop planks.   Below the waterline the hull will be coppered (a 3rd layer!)

 
 

I put the ship's boats aside for a while and went on to the deck furnishings.
 





 
They look so plain (especially the forward companionway) that I am tempted to try to do better.  @Tim I. did such a great job on his interpretation of the cabin and companionway in Philip Reed's book (Period Ship Modelmaking - An Illustrated Masterclass) that I will try to do similarly.
 


 
Just started on that process
 
 

I put the ship's boats aside for a while and went on to the deck furnishings.
 





 
They look so plain (especially the forward companionway) that I am tempted to try to do better.  @Tim I. did such a great job on his interpretation of the cabin and companionway in Philip Reed's book (Period Ship Modelmaking - An Illustrated Masterclass) that I will try to do similarly.
 


 
Just started on that process
 
 

I put the ship's boats aside for a while and went on to the deck furnishings.
 





 
They look so plain (especially the forward companionway) that I am tempted to try to do better.  @Tim I. did such a great job on his interpretation of the cabin and companionway in Philip Reed's book (Period Ship Modelmaking - An Illustrated Masterclass) that I will try to do similarly.
 


 
Just started on that process
 
 

1st planking was completed a while ago and 2nd planking is well underway.
 





 
The challenge with the 2nd planking was clamping around the stern where the filler block didn't allow the clamp jaws to rest.  Since the filler block will be removed in a future step it seemed far to cut a channel now to provide clamping surface.


 
When that wouldn't work I tried elastics to provide some clamping force.

 
But soon the clamps wouldn't work.  On this site I recently read (and of course forgot to note from whom I got the idea) that using a planking iron to heat the plank accelerated the setting of the wood glue.  This turned out to be a brilliant idea.  I've been using it to attach each of the 100mm planks.  It takes about 10-15 seconds for the adhesive to set.  It works especially well on the curvy bits.  I think the moisture in the PVA glue, when heated, helps the wood to adopt the shape of the surface it is pressed on.  I have not used any CA adhesive.
 
Thank you ?????  I wish I could find the post I read to give proper credit. I am grateful!  Planking has just reached past the waterline.  All the planks so far are full width.  I'll shape the ones from here to the keel as required with the likelihood of some stealers and/or drop planks.   Below the waterline the hull will be coppered (a 3rd layer!)

 
 

Since the last post I've planked and painted the inner bulwarks and planked the deck.
 

 

 

1st planking was completed a while ago and 2nd planking is well underway.
 





 
The challenge with the 2nd planking was clamping around the stern where the filler block didn't allow the clamp jaws to rest.  Since the filler block will be removed in a future step it seemed far to cut a channel now to provide clamping surface.


 
When that wouldn't work I tried elastics to provide some clamping force.

 
But soon the clamps wouldn't work.  On this site I recently read (and of course forgot to note from whom I got the idea) that using a planking iron to heat the plank accelerated the setting of the wood glue.  This turned out to be a brilliant idea.  I've been using it to attach each of the 100mm planks.  It takes about 10-15 seconds for the adhesive to set.  It works especially well on the curvy bits.  I think the moisture in the PVA glue, when heated, helps the wood to adopt the shape of the surface it is pressed on.  I have not used any CA adhesive.
 
Thank you ?????  I wish I could find the post I read to give proper credit. I am grateful!  Planking has just reached past the waterline.  All the planks so far are full width.  I'll shape the ones from here to the keel as required with the likelihood of some stealers and/or drop planks.   Below the waterline the hull will be coppered (a 3rd layer!)

 
 

Since the last post I've planked and painted the inner bulwarks and planked the deck.
 

 

 

There is a discussion here https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17374-model-shipway-ratline-tool/

Time for another update. I got stuck into the head rails. Boy, that was a fiddly exercise, definitely the most tricky part of the build so far (in my case anyway). I think I got away with it. There are plenty of mistakes I can point out (and will be obvious for most of you on the forum), but overall I am pleased with the look.
For each head timber in between the rails there are a few in the bin and a few still on the floor bounced out of sight. The carvings are also a fit iffy.
I also want to give a bit of a plug to John Garcia from Model expo. I ran out of small eyepins and couldn't find them on line. When I asked John if I could buy them from model expo, he just asked for my mailing address and sent them to me free of charge. Now that is service....
Now for some photo's.
Cheers, Peter

There is a discussion here https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17374-model-shipway-ratline-tool/

There is a discussion here https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17374-model-shipway-ratline-tool/

There is a discussion here https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17374-model-shipway-ratline-tool/

There is a discussion here https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17374-model-shipway-ratline-tool/

There is a discussion here https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/17374-model-shipway-ratline-tool/

Started ratlines. I experimented with the different ways of tying the ends. The first 2 I an eye splice lashed to the shroud line This was hard to do and very time consuming. The next 2 I tied the ends and seized it like the eye spliced ones. Without magnification you cant see the difference so I'm continuing to do them that way instead. It is less time consuming this way too.  A lot of clove hitching to do!
 
Jesse

Hate to open an old thread but this is very interesting...
 
John from Caldercraft in August 2014 received my request for parts missing from a kit that I purchased and after waiting and waiting and after numerous subsequent requests, the parts were eventually received in March of 2015.
 
Some of my crankiness is outlined in the thread above...
 
Low and behold and pushing 4 years sine the original request, I get a package from England via Royal Mail with my missing parts... not sure if it was the first or second package that was sent that finally got delivered... I am wondering where in the mail delivery system did it get lost as the customs declaration slip looks to have the date of February 8, 2018.
 
Anyways, its a story...

My mill is just mounted on a cheap piece of "shelving".  Laminate surface  is easy to wipe down.  I added rubber feet.  I have to move the front one as I've moved the mill onto a roll around tool that is a bit narrower.

Nice Collection and Presentation!

Hi again guys, thanks for all the thoughts and insight.  I think I was able to locate the inch to metric conversion kit for the mill, which is about $126.  Certainly cheaper than buying a new mill.
 
I thought about selling the mill, and converting my lathe to a mill with the vertical attachment to save space and it would be a little cheaper (for example, I think you only need on DRO set up).  Looks like the milling area would be really small though, so the option would be to buy a separate milling table and share the power system between the two machines.  That saves a bit of money, but results in the same amount of space as two separately powered machines.  So, probably not worth it.
 
I took a look at my lathe, and saw what people mean by the tailstock getting in the way.  I suppose I could always upgrade to a longer lathe if that ever becomes a real problem.  I don't really have the space to accommodate a 3 foot lathe though with my current work space...   So, probably keeping what I have makes the most sense at the moment.
 
So, after all this, I think I'm back to where I started as to whether to buy a new mill, or just outfit my current one to metric.  If I bought a new mill, it would only make sense if I got one with a bigger table.  Is there any reason for ship modeling to upgrade from my current 10" table to a 12" table?  I see that they also offer an 18" extended table for another $200.  I'm guessing that the 18" bed might be nice to have, but it's not really necessary (and would take a lot of space)?
 
Thanks again for all the input on this thread, I really appreciate it!  I have to say that after all this recent research, I really am impressed with how Sherline makes things standardized as well as modular to adapt for various circumstances and budgets.  I didn't quite get all that when I bought my mill and lathe.

Got some shelving in solid beech staves cut to size, or you may find cut-offs from similar kitchen tops. I sanded them nicely and gave them a coat of cellulose sanding filler, which was rubbed down with steel wool. This gives a nice satin finish that is quite resistant to oil, easy to clean and pleasing aesthetically.
 
Otherwise, I made boxes or under-bench cupboards with drawers for the numerous attachments and tools one tends to collect with time. For the spindle tools (chucks, collets) I turned the drawers upside-down and drilled holes for the shanks into them:
 

Nice Collection and Presentation!

Nice Collection and Presentation!

My mill is just mounted on a cheap piece of "shelving".  Laminate surface  is easy to wipe down.  I added rubber feet.  I have to move the front one as I've moved the mill onto a roll around tool that is a bit narrower.

Nice Collection and Presentation!