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Keith Black

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Fred, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  2. Here is a kit but currently out of stock. https://www.woodenmodelshipkit.com/product/614/ Or eBay. You might get it cheaper with 'Make Offer' https://www.ebay.com/itm/363779249370
  3. Jim, welcome to MSW. You might consider taking a kit with a hull that's close and bash into the Pilar. Modelers here frequently do that.
  4. Mike, see the attached. Were I you this is where I would deviate from the original model. Instead of using the original nails as belaying pins, I'd carefully remove the nails and drill larger holes to accept belaying pins. Don't remove the three nails that hole to rail to the post. From your third image it looks like that would be ten belaying pins? I don't know if there are off the shelf belaying pins available in the size required. I real life pins were normally 16 to 18 inches in length with the handle being a third the overall length.
  5. Magnificent. A work of art for which you should be extremely proud, Glen.
  6. Those look great, Mark. Excellent progress on a field of cannon ready to roll into position.
  7. Brad, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  8. Bolin, beautiful build. The foremast being a bit taller than the mainmast is strange. Did they perhaps shorten the mainmast as well when they were motorized?
  9. Dave, there are two discussions on MSW that are sure to divide the community, CA and Polyurethane. I use both in copious amounts. I use poly thread so I don't see a problem using CA to secure knots. I use Polyurethane to seal wood and painted surfaces. I'll be long dead before I regret having used either. Find what works for you and full speed ahead. The cries from the shore that you'll surly sink can only be heard if you stop sailing long enough to pay attention to them.
  10. I know very little about pond boats/yachts but in what images I've seen I never saw where a ships wheel was employed. Mike, is there a spot on the deck to mark where a ship's wheel would have been? If not there's a good chance there never was a ship's wheel. That doesn't mean one couldn't be added for visual interest.
  11. Rob, in post # 462 you show a "my first gin block" which is a different design than the current gin blocks you're making. I'm trying to understand, are they two different types of gin blocks and if so does each serve a different purpose?
  12. May I be so bold as to ask why you abandoned the GR design for the current GS design?
  13. Mike, the running light looks perfect. I agree, painting the tufted seats would be a mistake but finding something to stabilize the material would be a good thing if such a product exist. The port side seat's fore corner is a bit tatty but both seats look ever so much better since cleaned. I think you're going to win me over with the painted deck and cabin tops as long as you continue to keep tight paint lines. Restoration is not an easy task, not the work as much as is making decisions on when enough is enough. Keep up the good work.
  14. Mark, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  15. Mike, I respect your ownership but you're just the current caretaker and as such you have certain responsibilities to the past and to the future. I'm going to be critical but for no reason other than trying to be helpful. There's an old expression in restoration, "it's only original once". Over restoration diminishes the value more often times than not. You can make this model look brand new, no doubt. But it's not a new model, it's an old model with hard earned patina which is what collectors and historians want to see. They want to see the warts. Example, the port running light. You've cleaned the brass around the lens and made it shiny new looking. and painted the light board a bright red. It sticks out like a sore thumb. it looks different than every other piece of brass on the model. For the sake of continuity I take it that your plan is to clean every brass piece. That plus paint and you'll have a model that looks new but worth half (maybe less) what it was worth with its original finish. As I said, it's your model.
  16. Mike, are you sure you want to paint the deck? The deck and cabin house tops are a very nice natural matching color that is a great contrast to the hull and cabin sides and rails. IMHO you're doing more damage than good as you'll lose detail if you paint plus it's not original to the model. My advise for what it's worth, lightly sand and varnish. From what I can see in the photos you've done a nice job on the rigging.
  17. Jim, welcome to MSW. We're glad to have you join in and please consider starting a build log where we can follow along.
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