Jump to content

Keith Black

NRG Member
  • Posts

    5,422
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. No, but I'd bash the heck out of the kit. The idea of having a set of plans to work from versus working from old photographs is sooooo appealing. The transition period of 1850 to 1900 going from sail to steam, wood hull to iron hull, and cannon to gun really fascinates me. I've pretty well painted myself into a corner with all the research I've done on that fifty year period, I think it would be wasted if I tried venturing off into another time period.
  2. Glen, you did a grand job on the Alabama so much so in fact that if there's still enough sand left in the glass once I finish the Tennessee I'm seriously considering the Alabama. There are very few kits offered in the early steam era plus the 1:120 scale is the same.
  3. Tom, please look at post #373 in Siggi's build. I thought I'd seen something similar but very unsure if it's the same or even close to. He calls this a bits and gallows. I am unfamiliar with this period so I'm out of my depth.
  4. If you go to eBay and type in 'Antique Steam Tools' you'll find several indicators plus a bunch of other interesting steam tools. Roger probably knows what item/items are note worthy.
  5. Glen, I used brass etched eye pins for the foot ropes. . My Tennessee is also 1:120, anything you see in my log size wise would have worked for your Alabama. Glen
  6. If so it's a much simpler version than the one Roger presented as the Google searched one lacks the pulleys and the two valves. Good score, Mark!
  7. Glen, welcome to MSW and glad to have you aboard. I've visited your build log, great stuff.
  8. I'd be more inclined to go with white or natural wood instead of red. She looks great the way she sits.
  9. Absolutely beautiful work, Brian. Brian, why not just go with the standard rigging and let the viewers imagination make the necessary connections as to what the cannon would have looked like when bringing aboard stores and munitions?
  10. That's why God made our dear wives.
  11. Glen, waxed thread gathers dust and is a bear to clean once dust collects on it. Also, cotton thread's life expectancy is minimal, instead, I suggest you use polyester thread. Gutermann makes a great polyester thread, Gutermann, Mara 30 and Mara 11 are good standing rigging sizes. Gutermann Sew All is finer (50) and comes in many different colors and works well for running rigging.
  12. Frank, these can be bought from Cornwall Model Boats, you'll need to figure out what size you need. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?page=search&SS=stanchions&PR=-1&TB=O&ACTION=Go!
  13. What great information, Roger. Thank you for taking the time to explain the history/use of steam in Lake ships..........jet condenser?
  14. I have the same issue, I am going to thread the lower and top deadeyes together off ship leaving the thread loose where I can adjust the distance between the two deadeyes once the deadeye chain has been attached to the hull.
  15. And once finished she's going to look like a million bucks, Lynn. Each build gets us a step closer to Nirvana or so it says here on page 43 of the Ship Modelers Guide to the Universe.
  16. Lynn, very few fittings on a ship/boat are brass due to strength requirements. What is brass and what is iron requires a bit of research, looking at other build logs of the same model is the easiest though in time, experience will fill in the blanks. Nails represent bolts and most all bolts are black, there are some brass bolts but they are the exception. There are a lot of brass screws but they would have a slotted head. Some hinges are brass and some are iron. Mast and yard bands are iron as is all chain. Some fancy fairleads are brass but most are iron. Ringbolts, eyes, and hooks are iron. Stanchions and rails and the ships bell are for the most part brass and some parts of a ships wheel can be brass. As I said, learning to blacken brass is the next rung up, learning what to blacken may take two rungs. Birchwood Casey Brass Black is by far and away the best product IMHO. Also, rubber gloves should be used when blackening. A caveat to this is.........you don't ever have to blacken brass if you don't what to, it's your provocative, you are the builder! Are you building a model for the sake of building a model or are you trying to replicate a ship/boat as it was in real life? There may be a book on ship's fittings and the material used to make them but I'm unfamiliar with one if there is. If so, someone shout out, TY.
  17. Will, welcome back, good to see you back at the workbench. Fantastic work you're doing, I'm super impressed!
  18. Lynn, looks very good. Before you start your next project you need to familiarize yourself with brass blackening. There are several threads on the subject and can be found via the search option. It's the next step up the ladder when making brass bits.
  19. Gary, this is so much fun watching this diorama come to life as you add each layer of realism, your mastery of detail is brilliant.
  20. Lynn, another tool to think about adding to your tool collection is a pair of hemostats, they're relatively inexpensive. They come as seen in the image with straight tips and also come with curved tips. I have straight tips and have never had the need for curved tips. Hemostats allow you to hold onto small pieces with a great deal of force. They will leave tool marks on your work so one needs to use with caution. If I'm adding a small piece to a bit of wire, I cut the wire long, hold the wire at the end with the hemostats, add the small bit that's being attached at the none clamped end, and bond with CA or solder. Once the bond is complete you can cut the wire to the desired length leaving no tool marks on your work. This same method of controlling small pieces can be applied when working with small wood pieces. Have a longer piece than necessary, add the small piece at the end and cut to length. You probably won't be able to use hemostats on small bits of wood as most times they will crush the wood but you can experiment, that's what scrape pieces are for.
  21. Lynn, you're doing very well. Don't be so hard on yourself. Small parts and steady hands is a challenge, in time you'll figure out how to manage working with small parts. Build logs are always a "go to" when running into difficulties. Don't be goofy, buy the nails. I smile each time I get a notification that you've posted a new update, keep up the good work......Keith
  22. Rob, the hull is looking great! Question, how did you make the scroll work stand proud?
×
×
  • Create New...