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Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Jason, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
Keith Black replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
They are gorgeous! -
Bob, sorry to hear about your son's skin condition. Hopefully that clears up shortly and he can get back to work.
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Landlubber Mike's technique for furled sails
Keith Black replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Bill, just swung by your Victory build log and looked at her yards, leave the sails off. Don't spoil the beautiful rigging job you've done thus far. -
Landlubber Mike's technique for furled sails
Keith Black replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Bill, i'd say almost impossible without damaging lines. Save the furled sails for the next model. -
Lee, welcome to MSW. Would you consider building a clyde puffer from a kit? Caldercraft makes a RC kit but most everyone has it on backorder with the exception of UK eBay. I did come across this site which is a downloadable kit that might work for you. https://scalescenes.com/product/t030b-clyde-puffer/ UK eBay offer https://www.ebay.com/itm/142147941869
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John, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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Funny, earlier I was thinking what a challenge the ladders were going to be and here you're a step ahead with a great solution.
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Keith, I agree 100%. The low quality makes the photo look like the real deal. Someone decades from now is going to be quite delighted and intrigued when they do the same thing. I can almost hear their astonished voices.
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Guessing they were made of iron for the obvious reasons.
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I don't know how visible the seams would be, you'd have to do a test run OTB. Cutting it in cross sections you might not have to glue the pieces together. Before cutting you could drill two small holes the length of the ship on either side of the mast. Then glue two miniature captive nuts at the back of the stern piece. and then screw the four pieces together. I hope you're able to picture what I'm trying to describe.
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Glen, this maybe a case of the less glue the better. I thought of putting a piece of saran wrap under the two halves before joining but as I think more on it that could be a recipe for disaster. This is really crazy but instead of cutting the ship along it's length could you cut the ship across its width between the mast in three or four pieces?
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Glen, rooting for you to pull this off, it looks like preforming heart surgery through a kneecap. Needless to say it boggles my mind.
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Kale, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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No but nice try.
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I have a brand new one still in the original box or what's left of the original box. I'm never going to use it.
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John, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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Hard gulp. https://www.amazon.com/Joewell-4038774000021-Classic-Scissors-5-0/dp/B003DPVRTM
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I find the problem with scissors is there's little cutting power directly at the tips. When cutting rigging lines, the least amount of a cutting instrument inserted into a nest of lines means less worry about inadvertently cutting a wrong line. I work at 1:120, maybe scissors are OK at larger scales?
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Rob, I've use a flush cutter for trimming rigging thread. I have one for cutting thread and one for cutting wire. I make sure to never confuse the two. It works out ten times better than any scissor I've ever used. https://www.amazon.com/Xcelite-170M-General-Shearcutter-Diagonal/dp/B0002BBZIS/ref=asc_df_B0002BBZIS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11981334926503510338&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017484&hvtargid=pla-420966033329&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T5J56ZS/ref=vp_d_pb_TIER2_sessmpr_lp_B005EXOF6S_pd?_encoding=UTF8&pf_rd_p=21b55c31-c104-4168-9e8f-9425024c3fcc&pf_rd_r=AGSAZGTM2NZMBW5V5531&pd_rd_wg=SYLSo&pd_rd_i=B08T5J56ZS&pd_rd_w=9zUYc&content-id=amzn1.sym.21b55c31-c104-4168-9e8f-9425024c3fcc&pd_rd_r=31e819f8-5825-4f40-9d6f-760a2582b57b&th=1
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