Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Thump's up, LOL..............I'm such an idiot, sorry Rob.- 1,205 replies
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No apologies necessary, you're the Captain of that ship! Sometimes, one thump's up just isn't enough.
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Second that! It's beautiful work that you've done and to have this happen to you is a shame. I hope you find a solution in quick order and can recover without great difficulties. I'm going to follow your build, the very best to you in your efforts.......Keith
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I also have to use my drill as a lathe but I can't come close to your workmanship. Sir, I am in awe!
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Mark From what I've read, fresh water was one of the most precious items carried aboard ship. If in fact they are water cask, maybe the physiology was, if small, a sailor would tend to take less? They appear to be about 24 to 30 inches in diameter at the base and would be awkward to carry up and down the gangways empty let alone full. That being said, I think whatever it is remained on deck unfixed and if a water cask, it was probably bucket filled as required. I'm going to try turning a couple, if the results are successful I'll post same. I'm still open to ideas other than water cask but after a couple of days spinning it around me ole brain, water cask are making the most sense to me. Thank you........Keith
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What type of metal and did you start from straight round stock or did you refine an existing shape? Fantastic quality of work on your build. Thank you for sharing........Keith
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Mark Of course, water cask! I don't think they were fixed as they appear in a location in one photograph but won't be there in another photograph. Photo #3, water cask is on the port side of the hatch while in photo #4 the cask is on the starboard side of the hatch. With a 480 man complement, there could have been several water cask positioned along the length of the deck? Thank you Mark for your input and thank you to all for the thumbs up...........Keith
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Does anyone know what the wooden "basin" with handles and lid is in the following Hatton and Hart photographs? I use the term basin as I don't know what else to call it? You can just make it out under the signal cannon in the first photo and then it's more readily visible in the next three photos. If it belongs with the signal cannon I'd like to incorporate it in the build. Thank you in advance......Keith
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I'm sure you're thinking, "Keith, those are some strange wheels" and yes, they are! I tried making them which ended in utter failure. I then searched off and on for almost six months looking for spoked wheels .35 to .40 inches in diameter and came up dry. I was even searching for toys that I might be able to rob the wheels from. I was at the point of giving up and not making the gatling guns and signal cannon till I came across these snaps in Joann's used in sewing. I used the size 1, they're .392 in diameter. I know they're not Kosher but sometimes (for me at least) If I can't make it, I have to make do. I can envision using these in a small scale build for hand wheeled gate valves, etc.
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The signal cannon was another story. I've always thought the first one I made looked more like a field piece than a signal cannon. On to signal cannon 2.0, 1.0 is on the left
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In getting back to the deck guns I went over the gatling guns, signal cannon, and the one, eight inch Dahlgren gun I've completed. I've decided I can't do any better on the gatling guns. These are the 4.0 model and as poor as they are this is as good as it gets. They kinda look like gatling guns a couple of feet away?
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Rob, it wasn't a waste of time, you learned something. Keep up the great work........KB
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I myself have found that while waiting for genius I've gotten more poop than pop...........fiberglass resin also works very well as a plaster sealer.
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Once I had the three cowl vents completed I made a mockup of the deck where I could place the vents on the deck with the first try. I've included a couple of photos of one of the original model's cowl vents to show how far out of scale the original deck elements were.
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The last deck elements I needed to make before completing the deck guns were the three cowl vents that go forward of the fore funnel. I'll show how I make these in hopes that in may help someone else who also has limited tools at their disposal. 1) Drill the opening for is to be the head and then turn using drill motor and jewelers file. 2) Once the head is turned cut it at a 45 degree angle and cut the tube at a 45 degree angle. 3) Mate the two with a generous supply of glue. (I wasn't able to figure a means of pinning the head and tube) 4) Because the head is so much larger than the tube, there is a lot of wood that needs to be removed with sandpaper and file to shape the two pieces.
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Wikipedia states this photograph of the Tennessee was taken at the Brooklyn Navy Yard in 1875. Is that date/could that date be correct? That date doesn't make sense to me but then....... Would it make more sense if this were taken sometime during the work period between Madawaska and Tennessee? The Hatton and Hart photographs don't support the four funnels to the starboard side between the stacks nor positioning of the two 100 pound Parrott rifles rear of the mizzen. Also the flying bridge seems unfinished and the skylight that provided light to the helm area is to port laying on it's side. Second question regarding where the chains are attached. In the 1875 dated photo the chains are attached to the hull above the second deck ports. In another silhouette photo (date unknown) the chains are attached below the ports. Thoughts on when this change was made? Third and last, I calculate that the distance between center lines of the two stacks is 73' 3". In the drawing a distance of 106 feet is given for end of boilers to end of boilers (coal bins are not included in the 106 feet. Would someone please verify that distance......thank you.
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I felt like I had really turned the corner when I was able to start making the deck elements. My rules have been, that if I couldn't make it look close to what an element actually looked like, don't make it. Don't make an element if you can't verify it was actually part of the ship (don't make up history, accurately portray history to the best of your ability) Don't make an element if it's going to look cheesy, better to not make it at all. To accomplish making pieces I've had to rely on pretty simple tools. Turnings are done with a drill motor and jewelry files, cuttings done with jeweler's saw and x-acto knives. If I had another 30 to 40 years of modeling left to me, I'd invest in some real tools. I'm pretty sure this is going to be my one trick pony but I'd love to scratch build a 1880's steam driven yacht and and, yeah, them too. Steam driven vessels fascinate the dickens out of me. Building at one tenth of an inch equals a foot is easy math but it sure test my abilities. The telegraph engine controls is pretty much at my limit. February of 2017 found me doubting that I'd every be able to do work this small.
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The Tennessee was 355 feet in length and 45 feet two inches at beam. The model hull is 30 inches in length and 5.5 inches at beam. The shortness of the hull is most noticeable at the stern. I've had to crowd a number of elements at the stern and that disturbs me but that's having to play the hand I was dealt. After getting the stern area hollowed out as needed I turned my attention the the ports. Once again the shortness of the hull made it necessary to cut only ten ports on the second deck level verses eleven as was on the Tennessee. I had to plug and fill in the top deck ports of the original model as they were in no way positioned correctly to allow for the chain rails. On the original model the ports had glued paper as covers. After cutting the ports square I let in wood port covers a fraction to create shadow lines. Once the ports were done I then added the chain rails, added the piece of wood just below the top of the bulkhead that runs from each side of the bow completely a round the model, anchor guards and anchors. Making the starboard and port galleries proved to be the most complicated part of the hull. The trick was not so much in the making of one, it was making two that looked alike! If I've not given the proper name or term to an element, PLEASE provide the correct name/term where I'll know, thank you. I then started work on the inside bulkhead filling and sanding the vertical pieces of wood from the original model (I think the vertical pieces were bamboo) running horizontal strips for ports and the pin rails. I'm not real pleased with the pins put once they're covered with looped line I don't think one will see very much of them. I still need to cut four ports at the stern, two each both starboard and port side of the eagle.
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Before I get too far a field I need to take a moment to thank those in the Nautical/Naval History side of this site. If not for member Talos I wouldn't have the majority of the H&H photos I have to reference and has also provided other photographs and drawing. Mark Taylor, Roger, Druxey, Canute, Steven, Dave and others have provided ideas, support and encouragement. If they hadn't been there for me, I wouldn't be here. In some of my photographs you see a little stick figure sailor, that's "Bob". I got tired of constantly trying to place my machinist ruler on the deck to gauge how high I needed to make an element. So I made Bob to represent a man 5'11'' in height (he's just shy of six tenths of an inch tall. Bob isn't going to be part of the final build but there maybe a Bob 2.0
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As this is a solid wood hull my first step in correcting the model was to hollow out the stern section where I could get the ship's wheel and binnacles under the upper stern deck. The original model had the ships wheel in the open forward of the mizzen. H&H photos of the ships wheel can be seen in the previous post.
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The Hatton and Hart photographs were/are my primary source for trying to create as much model authenticity as possible. Sometimes I have to assume, which I hate. Example being, on the upper stern deck a partial funnel profile can be seen behind and to the port side of a binnacle. (I may as well jump on this grenade while I'm here. This binnacle appears to be about five and a half feet tall, a foot and a half above the standard four feet. Access to viewing the compass is aided by a two step ladder propped up against it seen in the first of the four H&H photos.. I'm guessing the reason for the extra height is where the compass is above the railing and other metal objects. Please jump in with comments should you have other thoughts) All other photographs from the starboard point of view are and blurred and of no use determining if a starboard funnel is actually there. I chose one to be there due to ship designers seemingly love of and necessity for symmetry.
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