Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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I'm anxious to hear how the cutter works out. -
I'm going to seal my wood models. I worry most about the painted wood surfaces flaking because in time paint will flake. Varnish or poly will help minimize flaking. Artist and cabinet makers have been varnishing their works for hundreds of years.
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But like their British cousins, their engineering (automobile) wasn't always practical.
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Gregory, wouldn't wind blow down the stove throat with the stack pointed aft? A straight pipe with a rain cap on top makes more sense to me but I don't claim to be an expert but I do have almost twenty years experience living in houses with wood or oil stoves. Smokey downdrafts are the pits.
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Chris, congratulations on completing a neat little build. There is something special about biplanes.
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Regarding the kit differences, it's probably due to the difference in age between JEB's kit produced in the early 80's and yours some thirty years later. Manufacturing differences would/should be expected over a thirty year span. In this plan drawing, those are chainplates. JEB's solution was to simply put brass pins in the hull, ran a line around the pin head and up to the deadeyes. Can you rework the chainplates provided with the kit? There are suppliers who provide model bits. I agree, the stove pipe doesn't look right. Straight up capped with a top would be more accurate, IMHO. Almost everyone 'kit bashes' because kit manufactures don't always provide the best materials.
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Jim, I like seeing you're going to push through regardless. Please take a moment to introduce and tell us a bit about yourself in the New Member Introductions section (see link) and then start a build log for the Flying Fish. In your build log you'll be able to ask questions, address build issues, and post photos. A build log is one of the best ways of getting help. https://modelshipworld.com/forum/3-new-member-introductions/
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Jim, first let me welcome you to MSW. As to your problem, I'm not build familiar with this kit but that looks correct. we have a member who has completed the kit and created a photo album, please see the below link.
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Pat, can the jig be adjusted to accommodate the different block sizes? What is the smallest to the largest block size you'll be working with?
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Then I've gotta stop what I'm doing and schedule visits to all the various mental hospitals.
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Rico, welcome to MSW. Nice models, you should do well.
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Greg, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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Keith, that cold shop may limit the amount of time you can spend out there but it sure doesn't affect the quality of your work. Beautiful work as usual.
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The second and third photo are the floorboard of a Ford Model T. We owned a 1919 T fairground racer for awhile years ago, I never got the hang of driving that thing.
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Thank you, Brian. This wire is also softer and is much easier form. Thank you, Mark. I don't envy folks with good eyesight, too many mistakes. Thank you and you're welcome, Glen. Thank you, Lynn. I have to stop and give my eyes a rest more frequently now than I used to but thank God for the ability to still see somewhat well. Gary, thank you. I'm not sure as to the exact number but I think I'm roughly a quarter the way through. I'm working one the last yard to populate with blocks, the main topsail. The total number of blocks for the yards is 105 I think the mast and gaffs will take approximately 200 including the backstay deadeyes. Deck blocks, 25 to 30? Channel deadeyes, 140. Geez, I just added those up and the total is 475! I'm only 20% there. I think it's safe to say that blocks will be a prominent feature as long as my fingers hold out. I still think back to the thought I had years ago, "how hard can it be". It's I good thing I didn't know otherwise I would not have met you nice folks. Thank you to all for the likes and for for following along.
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Lynn, you don't get a 'thumbs up' for this post but you don't get an admonishment either. From time to time all of us rush parts of our project for whatever reason. Breath through your eyelids and release the beauty from within that block of wood. I'm glad to see you're taking Cathead's advice and purchasing the chopper, I think it will serve you well.
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Leo is a class act. He takes the time to explain the how and why of the piece he's making. There are no half measures when it comes to the work or materials invested in the Tally Ho. He could stand to see a barber more often but maybe that's jealousy talking.
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You have a lovely home, Lynn. Thank you for inviting us in. It's not clear to me why you're having the problem cutting three inch pieces? Are you using a metal ruler to measure? A tape measure is OK for building shelves but more accuracy is needed when working in these small scales. I suggest purchasing a machinist ruler as shown. The one I own has tenths of an inch marked but I don't think you'll find that useful for the scales you'll be working with. Instead of cutting each piece individually, try to gang cut them. If you can stack all the pieces together like a brick, they you can cut all of them together. Once you have all the pieces made into a brick, keep them together by wrapping them with masking tape. Clamp a piece of wood to the left side of the work surface (if you're right handed, right side if left handed) to act as a stop. You butt the pieces up against the stop to steady them when cutting. This should insure that they're all the same length. They maybe a bit off but they'll all be off the same amount.
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