Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Rob, the hull is looking great! Question, how did you make the scroll work stand proud? -
She turned out a beauty, no longer the pitiful orphaned child she once was.
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Lynn, IMHO what Amazon what's is too much money. The tweezers maybe OK but the third hand stinks. There's a eBay link for a ceramic board and a much better third hand from Micro Mark and also a tweezer with stand. https://www.micromark.com/Triple-Grip-Third-Hand https://www.micromark.com/SOLDERING-TWEEZER-STAND https://www.ebay.com/itm/183401218553?hash=item2ab39081f9:g:IFUAAOSwl0xegXKl
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Rob/Keith, I've been thinking on how to make the plank seams noticeable. If one had a to scale caulking iron, one could drive the tool and work it along between the planks. It would be incredibly tedious but it might work. The tool could be a Xacto chisel blade broke off square with the end filled flat.
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Lynn, for starters the link gives a price of 39.97 not 21.00? I don't think a cookie sheet nor plate is going to work? I think a ceramic tile is going to work better as it's going to transfer less heat to the surface it's setting on. Below is a video link on how to anneal.
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Keith, in real life I think paint was used extensively particularly inside the gunnels. I'm sure white paint was used inside the gunnels to help illuminate the working areas at night as much as possible. A candle or whale oil lantern in rough weather is not going to produce enough light to be effective IMHO. But that's the modeler's lament, show the beauty of the wood and its tight and tidy construction or make the model as it actually was, slathered in paint. And I'm not sure how neatly the crew could have painted when done on a rolling deck. Contemporary paintings show ships with sharp defined paint lines but most all are at distance, standing distance may have looked much different unless the crew had the time when tied up at dockside.
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Keith, once a hull is planked, filled, and sanded it's going to look seamless I don't care what type of paint used or how it's applied. I think the only way to see plank seams once the final sanding has been done is to remove the filler between the planks. How one would do that and with what tool where everything looked neat and tidy is beyond me?
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Rob, I'm afraid it would look exactly like thinned acrylic paint. You should test a piece of scrap to see what you think.
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Lynn, that looks much better. You need a wire cutter that can cut as close as you want including the ability to cut flush. Below is cutter from Amazon that looks a lot like the cutters I have. You might want to search local first for this type of cutter. https://www.amazon.com/MTHKLO-Precision-Cutting-Electronics-Aluminum/dp/B083HCWKD9/ref=asc_df_B083HCWKD9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416652462199&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17275181636199285717&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017256&hvtargid=pla-901408326923&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=97957278230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416652462199&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17275181636199285717&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017256&hvtargid=pla-901408326923
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Rob, the ships boats look good. As far as the sanding goes, try a finer paper, 600 grit or steel wool #0000.
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David, I agree that one shouldn't use acetone carelessly. I guess I've used it so much over the years from metal prep to fiberglass work that I don't even think twice about using it, but what works for me and my old lungs is my choice. David is 100% correct, only use acetone when one has completely familiarized themselves with all the safety precautions associated with its use.
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Lynn, you also need a good knife set. By good I don't mean the most expensive set. Micro Mark wants a lot for their set, Harbor Freight is cheaper but Micro Mark is probably better quality. With a chisel blade (see image) you can push down and cut through stock provided it's not too thick. It's much quicker than slicing or sawing. https://www.micromark.com/Excel-Super-Deluxe-Knife-Set https://www.harborfreight.com/56-piece-precision-knife-set-36410.html
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Lynn, you have to know what the hole size is that you need to drill, you need a caliper. You measure the brass wire or rod and then select the correct drill by measuring the drill shaft, not the twist. I over drill the hole a small amount so I don't have to force the wire/rod through the hole. At this time you don't need an expensive caliper. Micro Mark wants 35.00 for theirs, the below is from Harbor Freight for 20.00 but I think you can buy one at a auto parts store or hobby shop if you have one in your area. Just make sure it measures both in inches and MM. I agree with Steve regarding making a new part, it's not that difficult and your skill level is up to the task. It's just a pain in the backside. At this stage in your modeling career I'm not sure jumping through hoops to make a rivet is justified. Were I you, I'd make my replacement part, drill the correct size hole, run the brass wire through, glue using CA glue, and clip leaving extra on both sides. By extra I mean .05 inches, then take a file and dress the wire ends flat. At the scale you're working at it's going to look a whole lot like a rivet. I suggest using CA glue because a piece when glued with CA can be removed by soaking a bit with acetone. I think a piece adhered with epoxy is much harder to remove. David may have further insight regarding breaking an epoxy bond? https://www.micromark.com/Fractional-Digital-Caliper https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html
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Lynn, from the same supplier is a pin vice and micro drills. I've bought both items and I'm extremely pleased with both, particularly the drills. As you progress these are going to become necessary items for your toolbox. The only thing I see wrong with pin insertion pliers is when trying to push into delicate/small stock. For me, it's much safer drilling a hole and then inserting and glueing (I use super glue. A lot of folks hate the stuff but I couldn't do without it) the eye pins/ringbolts or whatever hardware you're adding. When using CA (super glue) be sure to have Q-Tips handy to wick away any excess glue. For me, PVA glue doesn't seem to hold as well as CA in metal to wood applications. https://www.micromark.com/Double-End-Pin-Vise https://www.micromark.com/20-piece-Drill-Bit-Set-with-Plastic-Index-61-80
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Lynn, you did a very nice job of painting. The pram is looking sweet.
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Gary, great modeling of the press. My friend, you do have a knack for making bits and pieces come to life.
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David, the last pic in post #393 captures the essence of the delicateness of your wonderful model. The warmth of the illuminated hull planks, by design or default, emphasizes how very special this miniature watercraft is.
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Michael, wishing you a successful surgery and a speedy recovery.
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Michael, you know you're probably not doing yourself any favors continuing to model with your CTS. Have you considered taking some time off till you have a chance to visit with the doctor? I love seeing your work but..........
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