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Keith Black

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Agreed, Gregory and Tom. 7.953 inches = 42.4 feet and sounds reasonable. 8.66 inches = 46.16 feet which would add another 2 feet either side of beam. Tom, the model should measure approximately 5.73 inches at the beam.
  2. Rob, the first time I saw a Workmate in use was in a photo you posted doing off ship mast work on the Great Republic. Thanks for looking in.
  3. Having a beam of 30 feet 8 inches, a main yard 30 feet long with a diameter of 7 inches sounds small. Topsail, maybe?
  4. CK, welcome to MSW. First off, your group is a special breed, being a former Marine I can't thank you enough for your service. Second, I don't know a thing about the maker but I'm intrigued by the model, is it possible to take a few more pictures and post them, please.
  5. Randy, if you look at the glue in the bottle and the glue applied to the wood, it's white, not amber. Is this what you used? https://www.gorillatough.com/product/original-gorilla-glue/
  6. Randy, this appears to be a good link. I'm sorry I mislead you in post #2. https://startwoodworkingnow.com/how-to-dissolve-wood-glue/
  7. Roger and Kurt, I've read other MSW post where Isopropyl Alcohol is the recommended method for removing dried wood glue and I have no argument with that recommendation. Before replying to Randy's I did a quick Google search looking for the alcohol method but didn't find a Google link specifying Isopropyl Alcohol. What I did find was the below link by Loctite. I'm confused as to why a manufacture (Locite) would recommend one thing (Acetone) while years of collective MSW experience supports using Isopropyl Alcohol? I personally have never used either method so I've got no dog in this fight. I'm sorry if I've lead Randy astray. https://www.loctite-consumer.co.uk/en/how-to-guide/gluing-guide/how-to-remove-glue-from-wood-easily.html
  8. James, welcome to MSW. Wishing you the very best.
  9. Both methods are suggested by Loctite. You can also place a warm wet rag on the glue for several minutes allowing the glue to soften so it can be scrapped away.
  10. Bill, if it were scratch built or of historical significance I would agree but being a kit........
  11. Egads, the dreaded tweezer releaser, I hate when that happens!
  12. Ray, is the hull itself is alright? I don't think it's ready to be allocated to the bin, not just yet. At this point it doesn't eat much, if you've decided you don't want to mess with it, place everything in a box and hang on to it. Who knows, at some time in the future you might discover a neighborhood kid that has a hankering to make model ships and this ole gal could be the ticket to their dreams.
  13. Glen, great micro detail work. I'm always whining and moaning about trying to make items at 1:120 scale while folks like yourself working at even smaller scales make it look easy, hats off.
  14. Ray, steering wheel is incorrect, the correct term is 'ship's wheel'. I hope you start a restoration log where we can keep track of you progress.
  15. Keith, if you find one on eBay that's listed by a USA seller and they won't ship to the UK, you could have it shipped to my address and I could forward it on to you. If at anytime you think that might happen, let me know and I'll PM you my address. You might be better served with the 16 inch, model 79-020 because your build sizes are larger plus the added versatility.
  16. SkiBee, having worked with creosoted piling on the docks in Alaska, the last thing a guy wants to do is work around/with creosoted lumber. Creosote is just nasty stuff. Lumber back then was cheap, dirt cheap. I'm sure dunnage was readily available and even if they had to cut timber/lumber to special lengths it wasn't an issue. Creosote and treated lumber is a relatively new thing, now tar is another matter but I can't see tar being used on a lunch way because it's not slippery enough. Up north when we wanted to move the pile driver or other items without wheels across the docks we greased a path with common lard. Now that does bring up a point, now that I think about it and as I remember, greased launch timbers/lumber untreated and left to the elements was a deep brown, almost black in color. That's something to think about, Lynn. You might do a little research and see if you can come up with anything. SkiBee, thank you for jogging my memory.
  17. During those times when you need to take a break from the Phantom you can play around with different wood finishes for the launch and decide which effect best suits your taste. I look forward to the next Phantom updates, steady on.
  18. Marcus, welcome to MSW. Happy to have you aboard.
  19. In the end, it's Lynn's world. Us folks in the peanut gallery can express our opinions but It's your baby. You like stain, stain it. You like a weathered look, weather it. You want to use straight up paint, paint it. In the end, whatever course you decide to take, I'm betting I like it.
  20. Eberhard, you never cease to amaze me with your ability to replicate the tiniest detail. The thoughts of a .02 inch doorknob leaves me shaking my head in disbelief.
  21. Thank you to all for the likes and for following along. BrianK, I've seen the PC clips and they are intriguing but as I already have a third hand so I don't know if they would make my life any easier but thank you for sharing. Brian521, sorry buddy. Thank you for trying to answer my stupid question, "do you remember what you paid" for something you bought in 1984. Lynn, I do hope the Workmate vise meets your needs and works well for you. I've yet to put mine in use as I'm doing a bit more research before starting on the mast and gaffs.
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