Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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That's a total of 134,400 LB's which is an absolutely amazing amount of gun weight for a ship to carry back in that era. One wonders how they managed to lift off the flats if they let the tide run out from underneath them? Tidal flat mud is some very sticky stuff and and a great deal of suction is created when the hull of a ship is allowed to settle in at low tide particularly when heavy-laden. Operating in low waters had to be a gut-wrenching affair, a Captain couldn't afford to guess about the tidal topography of the area in which he patrolled. The weight of the XI Dahlgren gun (barrel 15,000 LB's) and carriages for a total of 20,000 LB's was stunning to me but they are mere toys compared to the Krupp 30.5 cm rifled breech-loading gun. You're doing a very nice job on the gun and carriage, it's the guns that are the crown jewels of a warship. -
Eberhard, what is the gun's barrel weight and weight for both barrel and carriage combined? Thank you.
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I noticed the absence of the ship's wheel in the photos and I wondered why so I went back through your build log looking for when you made the wheel and..........you haven't gotten that far! I swear I'm losing it faster than a sailor loses money in one of "those" houses on shore leave. My old mind is jumping to conclusions. When this project is completed, twelve selected photos would make for great calendar but I would hate to be the one with the task of narrowing it down to just twelve photos.
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I suspect heckblocks is a misspelling and isn't it Tanganyika not Tanganjika? Who is the kit manufacture?
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Look at all that shiny stuff! The execution and precision of each piece is absolutely mind boggling, each one a little jewel set in perfect symmetry. Incredibly beautiful, Keith. You made my day with the deck photos, thank you.
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It's so nice to see a young person take up ship modeling. JeffBoats, I wish you well with your first build. I hope you fall in love with the hobby and that we see more of your build logs after the Swift.
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That's incorrect. Actually it's a small circle within a larger circle, neither is a full circle.
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I have to agree with Pat, getting from stage 3 to stage 4, it would appear that the shifting carriage's rear trucks are maneuvering across unprotected deck.
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Beautifully done, Keith. The first picture in post #1147, the cowl mouths are black, is that paint or shadow? One sees the insides often painted red, what was the reasoning behind painting the inside of a cowl?
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Pat, it didn't look correct and I have no clue where they came up with that configuration. In the above Alabama build by Jonathan11, these sweeps make sense and appear correct. He's doing a nice job on his build.
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Todd I think what you are referring to are vent pipes? A picture of your Swift would help.
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Thank you, Pat. For these two guns the races are a simple circle. The next two guns, the XI Dahlgren converted to eight inch shell are beast sitting amidships facing forward. Their races appear to be complex, I'll be getting as much information from the H and H photos as possible and I'll also study the race configurations from the USS Kearsarge to help fill in the blanks should the need arise. There is also this from the Alabama. https://deadconfederates.com/2012/10/21/moving-the-big-guns-on-alabama/
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Thank you Roger, Tony, and Gary for the comments and kind words and thank you to all for the likes. The two 100 LB Parrott breech loading rifles are done with the exception of the circular deck tracks. I'll be making those next. 100 LB Parrott breech loading rifle statistics: Bore, 6.4 inches. Barrel length, 138 inches (11.5 FT.) Barrel weight, 10,266 LB. Shell, 80 or 100 LB. Charge weight, 10 LB. Maximum range, 7,810 yards at 30 degrees (80 LB). Flight time, 32 seconds. Crew size, 17. This from Wikipedia.
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I use Poly to protect painted surfaces as well. Rigging is a dust magnet, being delicate it's problem removing dust. A case addresses a whole lot of problems including inquisitive fingers.
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If it wasn't for the vapors I wouldn't use the stuff.
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I have no clue about the water based product Polycrylic by Minwax as I've never used it though I do intend on buying a can and experimenting with the product. I've always used the oil based product Polyurethane by Minwax.
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Minwax
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Basically what Bob said except "I don't put poly on any painted surfaces or metal surfaces." and I'm wondering why? Because of the sheen? I've had absolutely no issues applying Poly to either acrylic painted surface or metal surface.
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mpk73, what type glue did you use? I really don't think it matters because I've looked closely at you work and I don't see and glue smears at the edges of those elements still adhered to the deck. Don't you have something you can do a test on first before making a decision?
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Great looking model by the way, nice work. You shouldn't have a patchy look issue as long as you follow the directions on the can. Don't keep working the Poly, put it on quickly and let it dry thoroughly before touching it. Using a piece of lent free cloth as an applicator is a pretty foolproof method of application. Mess around with some scrap pieces of wood first to get a feel for the product and applying.
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I'm sorry, I thought the deck elements were still removable, leave the deck elements as is. Try the Poly on a test piece of wood first before commenting yourself. If I were you, I'd try the ultra flat Polycrylic first and follow the directions. I wouldn't spray as I have no experience spraying Ploy. I'd wipe or brush, brushing would allow you to get in and around the deck elements and be more selective in what gets a coat of Poly. If you do use the Polycrylic, please provide pictures.
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Keith, there's never a ho-hum entry in your build log and to boot, each new entry is as good or better than the previous. Us mortals may get two in a row or maybe three if we're really on a roll but you sir, you hit it out of the park with every swing.
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