rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Now it’s time to tear the ship apart and create it into the Donald McKay. Rob
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Worked on the water base. Beefed it up and painted it leather, and I glossed the sea. No spray or foam yet. Rob
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I tend to use a clear varnish for the larger portions of water to enhance the reflectivity.....and a mat finish for the white water spray....which tends to redirect and disperse the light coming off of it because of the multi surfaceness of *Ocean spray*. My 2 cents. Rob
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The concept may find question with the observer...and weather it holds up in general wasn't the basis of my comment. However, it was a factual determination and reasoning made by Donald McKay as to why he set all his masts vertical on his clipper ship Donald McKay. He actively sought improvements wherever he could....I'm sure this one was not made recklessly or without evidence based reasoning. I could be mistaken, but I thought the subject was referring to a square sailed vessel. Sorry if I missed something. Rob
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One aspect few consider is the idea that the raked masts was more detrimental to the sails life. When raked, the sails chafed against the mast and rigging. One particular reason why Donald McKay fashioned his namesake clipper Donald McKay with true vertical, non raked masts. His clippers generally had .05~1.5 degree raked masts anyway. One of the many improvements he strived to make with each clipper. Rob
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Thanks Keith. After base mods and painting leather brown....I will be applying high gloss to the waves and hull....and when I finally rest the hull in place...I will then add the foam and sea spray to the water. Rob
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George....so many combinations were employed on clippers. Typically when the line exited the gin block, it parted, and one side would either be fixed to the deck or chain plate, and the other ran through a double block system ending in a single to a pin. later clippers, (Like the Great Republic) used monkey winches for each mast to do the hard lifting. She even had a 5 HP steam donkey engine in the aft room of her forward cabin. Sometimes, they had several capstans along the deck to do such work. Each chain lift and tie for each yard had alternating (Port to starboard) double block to single block systems.... Depends on the year and what was typically operating at that time. Rob Earlier clippers used manpower of mechanical. Hence the invention of the Forbes and Howes double topsail and the addition of Deck winches
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I’m gonna re clad the wood with rich maple and beef up the base a bit. Not to mention I’m going to lay down another coat of high gloss on the water when I add the spray and foam. That of course will be after I remodel the deck and when the hull is ready to be glued in. Rob
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Thanks Rick. It's something a bit different. Rob
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We’ll now that GloryOf the seas is now complete I am ready to start a new on the Donald McKay. Here is my old glory of the seas mounted in the Donald McKay waterbase I am going to convert this model into the Donald McKay. First I had to make some home modifications corrections in the base to accept the glory of the seas hull. Typically the hulls were very similar above the waterline but below the waterline , quite different. I am not worried because that is completely covered by the water base. The conversation will be an extensive one, since the McKay had. Flush weather deck forward(forecastle) …..atop the main deck house and a gangway that ran down port center to the flush weather deck of the poop. All of this will need to be build and added. But first a great deal of demolition will need to take place on the old Glory of the Seas decks This model will be more to the scale of 1/128. Not sure exactly …..at the time of this writing. Here are a few starter pic to let you know what I’m starting out with Rob
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This is the main reason why the Forbes design and subsequently, the Howes design came into being. Being the easiest of the two designs...Howes, became the norm. Still....I think the model makers, made a slight mistake when they chose the iron truss for the single topsail. It is appropriate for the main course....because it is slung away from the mast...but the topsail as well as every other yard used a wooden parrel or mast boot...where the chain hoist was affixed. Placing it close to the mast and causing less stress and friction as it travel up/down the mast. Agreed...the double chain tackle for the hoist seamed necessary....but it became a far less cumbersome design when double topsails were introduced and a double block purchase and deck winches were introduced as well. Rob
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Super work George. She looks clean and well done. From your close-up angle...it is clearly visible and understood why McKay transitioned to the Howes double topsail design...over this single topsail design. One major drawback to this design is the pinching that was very evident within the parrel band. When the gin block is mounted on the top of the yard and the lift is activated...it unduly pinches the parrel band against the topsail mast...when attempting to raise the yard . Personally, I think the a truss is less effective then a wooden parrel..where the gin block could be mounted further back to the mast, allowing a more vertical lift angle....permitting an easier, friction free lift. This is one advantage(Of many), why the Howes and Forbes double topsail design was adopted in the early 1850's. I'm sad to hear you will be taking a break on her build....but I am enjoying it so...I guess I'll have to muddle along till a new entry is made. Again....super job. Rob
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Beautiful. I have a good picture of a model of her being built....I'll find it. I have read and own the Book about her. Good read. I had a friend who actually visited her in the Falkland's before parts of her bow were excavated. Here is a picture of her wreck. Rob
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Rick...what ship is that, you posted a couple of pics with your own? You're doing a fantastic job. Rob
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Modeling Ships is sucha wonderful hobby...... You can take it as far as your heart desires...or as far as your skill permits. If the prototype has had longevity...then surely, you will be allowed the freedom to model the *Period* you so choose.....and still be accurate. Where as, if the vessel lived an unchanged or short life...you have only one chance to get it right. Anything else is just wrong. Personally, my own travels have lead me down the road of modeling vessels that are not regularly modeled. It releases me from the scrutinous eye of the *comparer*. However....this approach, requires the utmost in diligent research. You have gained a plethora of knowledge and understanding....where clippers are concerned.....I suspect what you bring to your next build will greatly enhance that outcome. Great job...and I'll continue to monitor with eagerness. Rob
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George. I hope this observation hasn't caused undue repairs. Worse thing is, you leave it and as mentioned earlier it might just *blend* in with the sheet and bunt lines. I have been doing research on McKay vessels for over 40 years and most notable on Glory of the Seas....so even the most minor of details I try not to over look...though it happens. You have done very well on this build and she is looking magnificent. I'm glad you went the extra mile to work out the *Missing* Naval Hoods...the manufacture failed to include in the kit. Rob
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The reason I brought up the whole thing is that McKay used the same rigger for nearly all of his ships and and due to mast location, rake and the angle of the stays insertion to the mast.....it simply *Looked* as if your forestay was too low and in interference with the yard. Again, Many clippers rigged their forestay over the top. British clipper's....such as the Thermopylae and Cutty Sark rigged their forestays above the top. I can name a dozen clippers rigged in like fashion. Namely my own recent clipper, Glory of the Seas was rigged this way. Sometimes painting will not reflect every detail as it was....(especially with the rigging...because it changed so often). Flying Fish was built 18 years earlier then Glory of the Seas...and it is quite possible her forestay was rigged under the tops in her lubbers hole....but given the fact your stay appears it will impede the yard, and supposing this is a relatively accurate production model of the *Fish*....... and knowing McKay's habits. I came to an educated conclusion and made the suggestion. Here are some examples...
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Looking great George....but I see a slight issue with your forestay. Donald McKay used the same rigger for many of his clippers(he even did the designs himself). The issue is the placement of the forestay on the fore mast. With its insertion point being below the tops...it will drastically interfere with the for main lards motion around its truss. McKay....and others....would bring that forestay up on top of the tops....reason being, is the distance from the stays deck mounting on the forecastle to the foremast top is considerably shorter then the main mast stay...from its origin on the foremast fife rail and up to its insertion just below the main mast tops. This shorter distance causes the stay to be too low and the yard will either rub against it, or its chain sling can come in contact with it....creating a big problem. Most modelers follow the kits rigging plan....however, design and physics, just doesn't permit it. Other then this issue...your efforts are wonderful. Rob
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Yeah...you worked up from driver to loader then, if you were good, to gunner. I was a gunner on a command tank and half the time I was the commander, cuz the officer was off tank. Served in Wildflecken.
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That is not hung as the example you made or the one in the B/W images. Seams simply hung from a line that cane raised or lowered. Interesting. Rob
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Indeed, I saw that metal eye……..and probably it was for a down haul…….but I was making my reference from the block…….by looking at your modeled representation, it appears there are several lines coming from the block or some other origin. Not just the two guide ropes. Your pint in a valid one……..a foul at the halyard, would require intervention with some form of a downhaul. Rob
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Keith.....Upon reading my response....I didn't mean to say, *Cept for*..to imply any error on your part....but that if you used a single line from deck level up to the single block, supporting the lamp and back down through the block to the lamp saddle/chair. You could eliminate that second downhaul line. The halyard line could be placed just aft of the lamp elevation axis....keeping it far away from the hot lamp chimney. That is what I meant. Rob
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It appears to be a simple mechanism. Two guide ropes and a single halyard. From the images of the actual lamp...there are no downhauls....just a halyard to raise the lamp. The weight of the lamp will easily bring it back down the guide ropes. And since the halyard is inserted back behind the lamp chimney to the metal *saddle*or chair.....the halyard rope will not be in danger of heating. Your model is well executed....cept for the downhaul(which could be problematic if damaged by the chimney heat. My 5 cents. Great detail to your model...by the way. Rob
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