rwiederrich
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Your scale permits you ample room and levity The trick, I wish I had tackled, was truly modeling the limpness and natural hang.... in the bunt line ropes, as they come down and pass through the fairleads. To keep them remotely taught, you unduly apply unnatural stresses on the shrouds. How to tackle that will haunt me till I simply replace all the lines (On my new model) with wire, that I can bend to achieve the effect. You are doing a fantastic job....and I'm quite impressed. Rob
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Wonderful work. Rob
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You know....I noticed that on other ships as well. I'm gathering it was a design preference. Some ships mounted the stunsail booms on top or in front of the yard...while others *hung* the boom down low on the yard. I wrestled with this when I built my Great Republic....and I discovered that her stunsail booms where hung below the yard. I made the educated guess that gravity was employed to aid in the booms security. Rob
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Wooden ships...Iron men. I got a couple of mates on the ropes...one is taller then the other(for realism) ...but the scale is about rig Rob
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Several things. In many cases the flemish horse extends to the end or tip of the spar. Note its *depth*. The foot rope will need to be no *deeper* then the horse. This is a mistake so many make on adding their foot ropes. They make the stirrups too long....thus making the entire foot rope assembly too *deep*....so that scale men would never be able to reach over the yard and furl the sail. Note the image where the men are actually standing. This is the proper lay of the foot rope....Not hanging far below the spar. Rob
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Setting your yard perpendicular to the masts was typical if the vessel was in port....without sails....to be well set and to make a good clean shipshape impression. Setting them at any particular angle means the yards are following the wind. Sails set on perpendicular yards is very rare....only if you are running with the wind. Generally the wind is coming off the quarter, and the vessel is tacking. If you plan on setting full sails...then cant the yards at a goodly angle to give the impression the sails are working the wind. The hull's direction is irrelevant to the wind direction. The wind could be coming from the East....but your heading is due North. Generally why ships seldom sail a straight line....even when that is the direction they are headed. Rob
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Yep..5 times. Two were commissions, one a gift and the others were my first(I got as a gift) and last(I built as a diorama, depicting her getting her new rudder after she lost it racing Thermopylae). I hope my own work can be of any assistance and inspiration. Big American clippers are my favorite...they were usually 2~3 times larger then their British counterparts. Your mistakes will aid you well...for in them you will hone your attentiveness and skill. I look forward to your progress. Rob
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Vitus..... I built this model 5 times and each time...I increased my level of detail. Of course years of experience with many other models in between and with much scratch building as well...prepared me for the task. Foot ropes and Flemish horses are a necessity for working the sails on the yards. You may forgo them now....but the fact remains, you might as well refrain from adding the fife rails or the poop and forecastle rails as well. And how would that make your model appear and function then? If you are intending to use this model as a learning platform....for the next model.....then why not begin your learning now. Clipper ships were extremely specific and fit a particular type of use. they were...in essence the epitome of sailing design. Lofty masts....overly abundant canvas......sleek, nearly dangerous hull designs. All precisely developed for speed. Everything else took a back seat to speed. You picked a good model to wet your feet on. She was a tiny thing....but is our only surviving example of the short lived design. Good luck in your adventure. Rob
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Looking real good Vlad. Rob
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That is a typical physical response to this thread. No medical intervention is necessary. Rob
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Marco....good job on the gin blocks. I thought about making mine for Glory....exactly....like you did. However...Like my habit, I found a faster and easier way, with light cured composite. Your final product turned out wonderful......very good indeed.😉 Your CS is looking very smart. Just fantastic work. Rob
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3D....I tackled the issue by noting that the bunt line blocks are movable on the jackstay and can be rotated to the back of the stay and thus the furled sail. The sail then can be tightly furled with the blocks nicely stowed behind it. I wanted my Glory of the Seas to mimic actual practice. ON the yard not in front of it. Check out my log for Glory of the Seas to see what I did to answer the call. Good luck. Rob
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I used extremely thin stainless wire(you could use stretched copper wire). I add strength by drilling appropriate holes at each end to secure the jackstay to...(By bending the ends to form a foot), along with the glue at each jack bolt. The slight mod is not altogether unrealistic in smaller scales...such as 1/96...the greatest benefit of the secured ends is that they hold the jackstay secure and parallel to the tops of the jack bolts while you glue them. I did not attach the sails to the jackstay( which is the typical practice), so I could evaluate and expose the jackstay detail....in this particular instance. Rob
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Glad you are moving along quite expeditiously. Sometimes our corrections out pace our original labors. Great recovery. Rob
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Ouch! What a painful experience Vlad. Truly gut wrenching. The closest I ever got to sucha disaster, was when I ran a skysail bunt line down the mast, through the maze of other lines only to find I was horribly twisted and entangled with several other lines. But this........Yikes. I I hope you recover both mentally and constructionaly soon. Rob
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I know, it is a big decision. Because it can get very tedious...to try to cram so much rigging in and along the yards. Then transfer that detail down the mast to so many belay points. I'm so glad I decided to NOT include any stunsail boom rigging.... In my scale it would have required silk thread to achieve the scale rope required for this level of scaled rigging.....not to mention the problem of finding places to belay the lines. I did COMPLETELY rig her...with yard, and sail control. Everyone's miles may very. Rob
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We’ll one and two in your drawing will be simpler, because your 3rd drawing requires that you have a block mounted on the deck and a line to belay at the rail. This will quickly get overwhelming at the mast foot. You will run out of space when you figure you need to do this for a couple of yards……..on both sides. Not forgetting you will need room for sheet blocks at the foot as well. It all gets tricky and tight………so think it out well. Rob
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Possibly the term *spreader* is being utilized to describe the cross tree.....? Rob
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He said no futtock shrouds...the means to climb up and over the top from the lower shrouds to the top shrouds... And no topmast shrouds from the tops...Weird. I think the addition of the tops should be eliminated and only cross trees are required. Still you need shrouds to access above the tree. Weird...again. Rob
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Iron Mast Cap Orientations in Steam/Sailing Ships
rwiederrich replied to BANYAN's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Time to, *Make it so #1*. Rob -
Vlad....you have a real job ahead of you. You will need many hundreds of blocks. but in your scale....that will be fun....if I can say that. I created blocks for each yard and purpose at the time I needed them. It broke up the monotony of making so many blocks at the same time. That was just me. In your scale, each block is nearly a small model in of itself. There are some nice videos , where folks mass produce blocks from dowels chucked up in a drill motor...or on their small lathe. Good luck. I'll be watching. Rob
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My library of books has been my own life saver as well. Glad the suggestion is making the task so much easier. I agree...one thing with larger scales is you can work around issues a bit easier. Through the function has to remain the same. To be honest....I haven't given my next build much thought. I have many hobbies...each requiring, as much of my time to accomplish the desired results. I build refractor telescopes in my shop and summer approaches...meaning I will want to take my big ones out so the grandkids can enjoy them. I also want to reinfuse my HO train passions and build my grandkids a small layout. And to top it all off....I'm retrofitting my library with production lighting, video and audio....so my sweet wife can engage her passion of live podcasting. I've spent thousands of dollars on cameras, video and audio control equipment. I'm simply trying to find Glory a new home, or a quality case so I can protect her for the long term. Rob
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I use simple wood glue. I first cut the ratline about an inch longer on both ends.....then dab some glue to each shroud at the ratline's proposed location...then I hold the ratline thread from both ends and gently press it into the glue and roll the ratline thread into the glue, incorporating it completely in both the ratline and the shroud. Then pull away, leaving the ratline glued to the shrouds. The glue dries clear, with a mat finish, but I always finish it off with some black paint. All my ratline/shroud joints get painted. Thing is you see....on the prototype the knot and ratline is left on the outside of the shroud....so is it on models....cept...in 1/96...no overly sized knot is present. Just clean ratlines....without the awkward, un-natural look of over sized knots and ratlines that don't flow harmoniously. PLUS....you don't have to spend tedious hours with tweezers tying knots on 5 to 6 shrouds...trying with all your might to NOT pull in the outer shrouds and warping the fantastic work you spend other hours rigging. That's just me. Remembering that all we are actually doing is *Simulating*. You've done a fantastic job. Rob
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