rwiederrich
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Everything posted by rwiederrich
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Paper sails have a wonderful translucency to them...and they're very easy to make.... Rob
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Glory of the Seas is a perfect example of a McKay bow. He used the Naval Hood extensively on all his clippers. The cutwater is the structure below the figurehead and forward the Hood. This design was unique to McKay clippers and was probably his well kept secret. Notice how the figurehead rest nicely and securely on the head of the cutwater and under the Naval Hood. Not simply stuck to the edge of the cutwater...like so many models depict.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
rwiederrich replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Acid etched stuff is cool...but less like hand crafted....when you are stiving to hand craft details. Reminds me of the printing folks who can design and print what items they need for their models on their 3D printers. I'm impressed with your application of AE...and as usual....you will create stunning realistic structures. More power to ya......Pat. She looks great. Rob- 993 replies
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- victoria
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Well Vlad. Several paintings show several different insertion and block points for both the fore topgallant and the fore royal braces. Dependent on her modification year. I think in your case...the fore topgallant inserted and had a downhaul block located at the crosstree base of the topgallant mast on the main, and the royal inserted and downhaul block was located under the main topgallant yard....where the shrouds affixed to the topgallant/royal mast stepping. I inserted and ran both fore topgallant/royal braces back to their downhaul blocks at the main mast topgallant crosstree base. These then ran back and down to their respective purchase blocks on opposite sides of the bulwarks to a return block and then to their pin on the rail. Hope this helps. Rob
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Yep...the finish line is in sight. By adding all the bunt lines I nearly ran out of fairleads to run them through to the pins. All the fairleads were full. I was afraid I would run out of pins to belay them too. A good working knowledge, led me to know that some pins were doubled up. Is that Beautiful giant...going in a custom case Vlad? Rob
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Great job George. Great new addition to your collection........😅. I felt a great releasee when I finished Glory of the Seas. I slept like a baby..... What a feeling after years of labor. Rob
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- Flying Fish
- Model Shipways
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When I was doing some research after I read the book about her. A friend of mine actually visited her site in the Falklands, It was He get me interested . I simply found them on the web. Not sure actually where. Sorry. Rob
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Great job Rob. I remember making the *Hanks* for the sails for my Great Republic. I made them by wrapping wire around a 2mm OD piece of stainless steal wire. Then I cut them along one side...creating hundreds of tiny rings. Like yourself I afixed them to the bolt ropes. I, however, then thread the stay through the row of hanks and fixed it to the mast....holding the sail permanently on the stay. Love your progress..... Rob
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I'm sure this has been asked.....are you building a case for her yourself? Rob
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Clipperfan drew it....and he did so with aquired knowledge gained through tedious research of Donald McKay's patented *secret* Naval hood. One distinctive feature McKay put on all his clippers.....that most replicators fail to include. Rob
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Just refound some images of the model of the Snow Squall. This little clipper would be a fun one to build.
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I concur. Rob
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Thanks , rshoker. I make it my habit to mount all my models on a unique mounting. With Great Republic I wanted to cantilever the beautiful maple knot on another maple base....so the model looks like she is floating out over the case base. All the maple is taken and milled from a large 100 year old maple I had cut down in my yard, that had died. The shelf that my latest model...Glory of the seas...is mounted on, also made from that maple tree. Her base is utilizing a large cleat mounted on a wood plaque that was used on a schooner that sailed NW waters. Thanks for commenting. Rob
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You did a fantastic job...for sure. I am very impressed. I am further excited that you want to continue with your clipper theme and want to build an American clipper. Your choice of Sir Lancelot was very exciting to me, because few people actually build a model of less modeled clippers. My own personal challenge was to build a clipper that rarely gets modeled. These builds requite great research on the part of the builder. I would like to see something other then the *Typical* fair of clippers. Something like the Big ships..... like the Games Baines...or possibly the Comet, Snow Squall or Davy Crocket. Sucha request will require a great enthusiasm on your part. You did ask what I thought. Rob
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I had won a model competition years ago and the grand price was a large selection of model wood products from Model Shipways. I got sheets upon sheets of the scored decking....its fantastic stuff for all kinds of modeling. Rob
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My experience is roughly 1 to 1.5mm. You'll want to back it if you plan on using it for full decking. I use it often on my builds. Saves loads of time. Rob
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I’ve been working in the machine shop building telescope components. And have not for some time, been here visiting. I have to say you have done well on her Vlad. Very well. You’re almost finished. Congrats. I hope to get back to the Donald McKay this Fall. I’m into my telescopes currently. Congrats Vlad. Rob
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
rwiederrich replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Great follow-up explanation Pat. I appreciate the clarity. Personally, I avoid soldering whenever possible these days. Typically, I always find a lazier way to accomplish the task. Great work indeed my friend. Rob- 993 replies
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
rwiederrich replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
2mm? HOW in the world can you fit all the items you need to solder onto a copper band no larger than 2mm ID? I'm perplexed...... From your scaled image it appears the bands are apox. 4mm ID. Rob- 993 replies
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
rwiederrich replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat...great job...soldering them must have been a trial? I probably would have drilled all the holes tightly fit in all the eyebolts and large slide rings into their holes...then simply soldered everything and then ground out the excess from within the band....all in two steps. Or, (My typical method), I would have taken the sloppy, lazy road and drilled the holes and after the band was placed on the spar, then redrill into the wood spar and insert the eyebolts and slide rings in place and glued them in....THEN blackened it on the spar. No soldering. The end result looks the same. 😏 However you accomplished it,...they look very fine. I suppose you have just a few more to make......🙃. Rob- 993 replies
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I use diluted black paint , then wipe it off quickly. It gives the dark grey tone to the raw wood. Your mileage may vary. Rob
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Im not even sure I know how to respond to that…..since no modeler actually uses the actual material used to build the real ship. You use whatever material gets the job done. Rob
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Just wonderful....... Rob
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