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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. Newly discovered info is exciting for sure......remembering that many Naval customs did not find their way into civilian practice....or vise-versa. I just wanted you to feel comfortable with the slight diversion....though it did pertain to your subject....originally. Like many sub-subjects.....group think, can sometimes run amok from the original posters log direction. Sall-good, it appears, since old nautical oil lamps are, sometimes the only artifact we can acquire for our personal collections that fit in our limited display space. Rob
  2. Indeed I see it and am surprised at myself that I hadn't realized this from the beginning, by not looking closer. Aging a lamp can be aided by realizing this particular fact...that thin plates of curved *interior* glass would have been the preferred method and not, as in later designs that used more expensive colored Fresnel lenses. Even more modern lamps used clear Fresnel lenses and colored electric bulbs. Thanks for the clarification. And I'm sorry we have pushed the envelope on the subject in Keith's log. Rob
  3. One interesting note. I have several lights as well and the starboard Fresnel lens is red and the port lens is blue. 🤔 That is because the oil and wick used burned bright yellow...thus against the blue lens it shown green. The starboard still shown red. Bob...in your one image with the light open, is appears the lens is red....but no other image shows a lamp with a red lens. Rob
  4. Yep…… looking closely you can see the technique here….. in each belay pin. pretty nifty. The only issue I see is that the pin could be pushed off axis slightly. But once the rope coil is applied it is all good. Rob
  5. Just something I noticed..... You apparently ran the lines down through the belay pin hole...then pressed in your belay pin to hold the line in place. After secured...you then added your rope coils. Interesting method....I never thought of doing that....I just belayed using the protypical way myself. Your final look is very nicely done and clean....with appropriate addressed rope coils to boot. Good job for sure. Rob
  6. Sorry to hear. But it is your build and you are the Master of its direction. I can understand the trepidation you may be feeling...as you are learning and developing your skills......all on the same model. This can be positively looked at as a Test bed model....one where you learn technique.....hone your skills and develop new and better ways to create a model you are satisfied with. Don't look at it as a failure....because you have not failed....you have learned. And surely do not worry about any of us....we are merely observers as you travel this road on your modeling adventure. I'm looking forward to your next log. Rob
  7. Just joining now. you've make exceptional expeditious progress....from research to her current state. Wonderful job indeed. Rob
  8. Many good points are brought up...and some good ideas too. Natural fibers are easiest to work with and as mentioned have less of a stringent memory. Gluing gives ample time to make any corrections, and or adjustments to the final look of the coil, while in place. Best part about the entire process...of adding rope coils...is the plethora of methods that can be employed. Pick the best method for your skill set/what you are comfortable with and gitt-er done. Good luck, in whatever method and or approach you choose. I've used my method for about 50 years...after much experimentation. I find it to be the fastest and easiest...not to mention cleanest when finished. Rob
  9. Yeah ……I’d get a more pliable thread for your rope coils. A Technique I use sometimes is to lay down a pool of wood glue……. Smear it out, then take your line and coil it up in the glue…..forming a nice little coil of rope. Then using a pic….you lift up the glue soaked coil (dabbing off the excess) and lay it over the pin on the rail. Once done, use the pic to pull it down into shape. Let it dry…..it dries clean. There you go Rob
  10. Keith....how flexible is your running rigging line? You can make a jig to make your rope coils....tie them off in the middle and then simply place them over the pin on the rail. If the line you are using is too stiff....then perhaps you can find a more subtle cotton line, in the same size and shade to make your coils from.. Here is a pic of my Great Republic forecastle and some belayed rope coils. I used a cotton rope to get the coils soft and supple.
  11. Rob...your masting is coming along very nicely. Your work is clean and precise. Not to mention the time and attention you are spending on your cloth sails. Probably some of the best cloth sails I have seen. Rob
  12. Oh good.....I like surprises. I suspected you were on a block making fest or a line seizing fest. Can't wait for an update. I too have been away from the bench, due to summer maintenance work schedules. I'll probably be trolling more often then not...these spring/summer months. Good to hear from you. Rob
  13. Good day Vlad…. How are you doing? Haven’t seen much advancing or any updates. I pray all is well. I suspect you are working on the yard braces by now…….if you’re keeping on your rapid pace. watching…… Rob
  14. Hey……Bruma……you may have mentioned this earlier, but where do you get your chain, and is it 42 lpi…....? Rob
  15. I would love nothing more then to dedicate this model to what ever museum would wish to display her proudly along with artifacts contributed by Mike and possibly copies of his books for display value. A complete display can be arranged with NRJ publications as well. I think it could be a fascinating historical display. A one of a kind display any museum would value in their collection. It’s locating a cooperative established museum interested enough to see the models shipment to and display at their museum that just might be a problem. Rob
  16. I can't wait for my hard copy, so I can show family and friends. What is so serendipitous, is that, Rich and myself had begun our own separate researching journeys on Glory at around the same time 15 or so years ago. It wasn't till he saw a post of mine on this or some other site of my modifying a Revell CS hull into Glory, that we formed a fellowship. A common dream to reimagine Glory of the Seas, as she actually was. Vladimir, who I converted from British to American clippers, brought, his computer and Cad design skills to bear in the project.....and the rest is,.....shall we say, history. Rob
  17. Thanks Rick. Rich will be doing a follow-up article in a later issue, outlining and depicting the completion of my Glory build. It has been a fascinating journey, one, I hope readers will enjoy. Rob
  18. Keith....she's looking super. Your lines are smart and clean. Are the ends of the lift purchased getting eyed to the deck, then run down to the pins? You are using my method to rig off model....SUPER job! Rob
  19. You *spead* along....Heehee. Thanks a lot. Now that the summer months approach, I'm busy with loads of summer jobs on the house and yard. I hope to get back to the shipyard to plan out my next build. Again....thanks for the fine comment. Rob
  20. The real height of the deadeye lanyards looks to only be roughly the length of one’s legs to their waist……..if the Queen is to be our measuring stick. The kit provided example is taller then a man is tall…. according to the kits measurements. Something is horribly off, and I pic the kit. Rob
  21. Your scale permits you ample room and levity The trick, I wish I had tackled, was truly modeling the limpness and natural hang.... in the bunt line ropes, as they come down and pass through the fairleads. To keep them remotely taught, you unduly apply unnatural stresses on the shrouds. How to tackle that will haunt me till I simply replace all the lines (On my new model) with wire, that I can bend to achieve the effect. You are doing a fantastic job....and I'm quite impressed. Rob
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