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  1. Bill You can down load the Instructions from Caldercraft web site And also the instructions from DeAgasonii If this doent ci=convince you to buy a Caldercraft Victory in the future I would be surprised Both are asimilar price although you can spread the payments on DeAgastoi the wood quality has a lot to be desired
  2. Incredible work Such detail Are you going to mark the deck treenails across the deck At least mark treenails equivalent to butt end tree nails as each plank would have a number of securings. Can post a picture if needed GREAT WORK
  3. This is superb work I would suggest that you don't fit the Gunport lids until after the RIGGING!!! How ever carefull you are the thread gets caught in the open ports lids!! I have also suggested that the Mast should be fitted and rigged seperatly Now I am working on the Spars I THINK its better to fit the LOwer Masts and the lower spars BEFORE the upper masts. The Fore and Main mast wave very complicated ways of securing them to the masts and it would be easier to do this if all the Upper rigging is fixed
  4. Syren are great but UK P&P is stupid Also the Are GUNS. Cannon are land based Guns ship based But thanks for the tip
  5. I find the "worse" bit getting the hull built. Planking so its smooth and even. If you don't get that right the whole project is a waste of time DeLongli have got it right. Built a few Guns at a time. Copper pltes a few rows at a time (Stratig at the stern if you are overlaying the plates) Amati plates come in sheet Ports and Starboard ready overlapped If you get "fed up" Build a mast top -very satisfying But yes its got to be something enjoyable Most important ENJOY I am rigging at present - now that is the best bit
  6. Corel in my opinion ar very clinical. Seem to be more interested in the look of the parts and packagine rather than the finished model Wood is excellent But things like the Gun carriages are golden coloured. Again in my opinion not really a modellers model
  7. They are supposed to be introducing A Trafagar Ocre not sure when You can buy a complete set for a Victory of al paints required for about £35.00
  8. Hi Guys Painted all mine with Caldercraft paint I always rig the ship with one side Closed up for action and the otherside posts closed That way you can see the beautuful line of the ship
  9. A model is never "Right" and it is up to the builder to build it as he/she wants You are doing a great job Ive not put tree nails on my deck at all. I am wondering if they could be marked with a punch. On my San Felipe I did the deck and the Hull because she was not copper plated Incidentally have you seen my blog on the Caldercraft and amati Facebook page. The Copper plates should start at the stgern and work forward over lapping the one behind it I also started from the hull up as is THOUGHT to be correct practice BUT the overlaps show up to much so I started at the Water line a
  10. Wonderful work JUst wondered why you are not showing the treenails on the deck. adjacent to the treenails on the end of the planks. I think they need tobe carried right across the deck I actually don't show the tree nails as on Victory the colour of the tree nails are very similar to the deck itself
  11. Superb detail Gun Carriage sides have to painted because they are not solid wood! Don't forget the main tackle passes through the Eyelets on the Carriage side Also Caldercraft rigging of the guns is not 100% accurate The lashed tackle may be correct while the ship was in harbour but at Sea the Barrel is unseated and lashed to the ship's side (Double lashed in a heavy storm) Note the rear tackle is removed as it is a trip hazard (Both in harbour and at sea) THe rear tackle is only used to pall the gun out in case of a miss fire or to change to load of the gun THe lashing w
  12. Just in case you are interested ive created a page for the HMS Victory Amati and Caldercraft All HMS Victory wood models are welcome https://www.facebook.com/groups/amativictory/
  13. Yes looks really good Waiting for my Amati Victory as a completely new project Hopefully it will be released before 2020 Will use this for that
  14. Here are the Amati Copper Plates. Scale 1:64 (Elephant and ne Victory when it become available They are etched so can e attached in "blocks" !:64 comes in 2 sheets of 182 (Half starboard half port) ie 364 in pack PART NO 4392-05 around 15.00 per pack http://www.snmodels.com/en/snshop/fittings-and-accessories/photoetched-copper-plates The 1:72 have far more plate 20.00 ie 500 DONT get you grubby mits on like I have!!
  15. Hi Paul I am sure you know all this Have sent a number of post here an elsewhere about Coppering The main reason for fixing coppering was to prevent the wooden bottom from rotting away. A ship with a copper bottom was abetter Investment than one that did no haver it (Hence a "copper Bottom Investment") According to many ship specialists Copper was laid from the stern forward over lapping the previous plate (AS you say) This helped prevent to forward movement of the ship tearing of the plates Initially metal nails where used but that reacted with the copper and salt in the sea
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