lmagna

Nice job. Does the name you chose have any significance or is it just something you dug up?

Congratulations on a challenge well met.

Yeh, I'm politicaly incorrect! or is that socially impolite? Whatever it is I are. https://www.super-hobby.co.uk/products/Zombie-Pirates-part-II.html Same maker part two. Quality is what you make of them. It looks like you get four chances to get it right.

It's a shame that they say they supply 48 figures but in reality it is 12 figures repeated four times, then they make you pay again for the other twelve figures repeated another four times!

That was why I stocked up on my supply several years ago when I bought a bunch of bottles from the WalMart discontinued shelves. It was probably not only unnecessary but also a symptom of my Hoarding disorder, but I am pretty sure that at the rate I am able to build models I have a lifetime supply unless the unopened bottles go bad over time sitting in the dark closet shelf! The one opened one was unchanged the last time I used it a year or so ago when I built a model to match my real Mini Cooper.

I agree with CDW 1000%. It does everything he says it does and more! My bottles don't look the same as the one he links to but they are old and for some reason J&J insists on changing the bottle look every few years without changing the formula.

Based on the dimensions of the real ship of 273' X 44' the model should work out to slightly over 13" X 2"

Ok, ok I went back and hit the like button! I think J will come out on top also. I will make you a deal Mark. If you pull out your CH-53 and build it, then I will do the same for my Huey and we can kind of build them together as a open build like Greg has for his 1/350 ships. We could open it to all equipment that forum vets have served on, land, sea, and air. By the way I forgot what scale your CH was?

Looking froward to seeing how this paint works for you. I have the same set. I will be using at least some of them on my Houston build. I think I am leaning toward the rail gun build as well. We have had a number of Missouri builds as of late and besides I know almost nothing about the history of the rail gun and following the builds of others gives me an education while I watch.

Don't remind me that I have that coming up yet again. Probably this year! I would give your above post a "Like" but it does not seem quite right somehow. Let the decal wars end!

Maybe like Carl said or adding a drying retarder/wetting agent?

Might want to make it a LONG piece of aluminum wire! Aluminum transmits heat pretty well!

Different good, or different bad?

Adding bushings just behind the universals is pretty easy. All you need to do is make another bulkhead just like the one you already made only for the new location. It does not have to be all that tall either as you will not be adding motors or anything else to it. Then it is just a matter of cutting two slots that allow it to sit under and around the two shafts just behind the universals with space all around. Cut two pieces of brass tubing just like you used for the stuffing tubes that went through the hull and slide them over the shafts and reconnect everything. The slots in the bulkhead should not touch the tubes at any point and they should be free to slide up and down the exposed shafts and through the bulkhead. when all is in place and nothing is touching or binding use silicone glue, (The toothpaste like stuff) and putty up the area between the tubes and the new bulkhead. When the glue fully cures in about 24 hours you will have a friction/vibration free support for the shafts. As a buy-the-way, Silicone glue is a fantastic RC ship product. I used to use it for everything! For example, motor mounts. Make a glob of glue where you want the motors to sit and press them into place and wait for it to cure. The same method can be used to mount servos and almost anything of that sort. After curing the only way to get them out again will be to cut them out! You can also make watertight seals with it by laying a thin bead around the lip under a hatch and spreading food wrap over the opening and pressing the hatch into place. When it cures just lift the hatch, remove the wrap and put the hatch back into place and secure it. Totally waterproof for years to come. If it is a covering like over the rudder that will probably never need to be removed unless something breaks and needs repair, you just leave the wrap off and glue it into place. If you need to open it at some point, with some care and a sharp knife it can be opened. On a model like you are building you could even secure the entire deck this way allowing you to remove it later if needed. It will NEVER come off on it's own and will never leak at the joints.

Looks like they could go together quite nicely if they are in the same scale. Could make a nice diorama. Have you considered making the wood stock from real wood? Just go out to a tree and cut what you need then split and pile them in the tender. No painting needed. I thought you were planing on replacing the wood with coal anyway, but I guess I just misread. We need to get some of the real train people over here like Ken and Ron!

Used hay is still a unpopular yet profitable and necessary commodity. LOVE your paintings Jim. I'm always looking forward to the next installment.

Hi ir Great work so far. If I may I might inject a suggestion at this point. It looks like you are installing fairly powerful motors for his boat as would be expected. Your motors are well supported so long as your bulkhead is firmly mounted to the hull. But just aft of the bulkhead you have nothing but the universals and a relatively long section of open shaft until you reach the stuffing boxes. You may want to build another at least partial bulkhead with bushings or bearings just aft of the universals to stop any vibration of the exposed shafts at high RPMs. Just a suggestion, it may be possible that everything is heavy enough, aligned and balanced enough so that this may not be a problem even without the extra support. I believe it will be quite fast. It will be interesting if the Lurssen effect actually works at this scale. I think you will find that it does work. In fact it may work at much lower speeds than it did on the real boats. You have to remember that the one thing that has not been scaled down is the medium you are running in. Water is non compressible and your model is lighter and far more powerful than the real boats and will lift much more easily than the real boats ever could. Years ago I had much the same issue with the Lindburg PT 109. Right out of the box she wanted to ride nose high and tail down with a bow wave that flared out on either side by six inches or more! I was able to cure this by adding two strakes made from evergreen "L" strut on the bottom of the hull parallel to the keel starting from the transom. I did not make them very big but the effect was to bring the stern up and the nose down and reduce the bow wave considerably. The speed also increased noticeably. So if little strips of Evergreen plastic were able to do that then your outer rudders should also not have any issues of obtaining the same ends.

No problem Tim The search was not only interesting but useful to me as well. Through this search I was able to locate the same kind of gun that I will need for my upcoming 1/350 scale Houston build. I doubt I have the skills to scratch build them the way you did yours. If you had built in 1/144 scale you could have used these: https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+1144+USN+50+Cal+Watercooled+MG+PE+14407/5134/#.XGb7pKJKi00 Sorry I was unable to locate anything in 1/200 or close.

Nice start Denis I am not all that knowledgeable about locomotives but I do know a little about steam so if you don't mind I would like to add a little here. Unlike ships, steam locomotives didn't have condensers to turn the used steam back into water after it left the pistons. So they used it to vent the expended steam up the stack, (Hence the large amount of white smoke one associates with locomotives of this type coming from the stack). This system also in conjunction with the shape of the stack caused a draft to be formed and caused the fuel to burn hotter in the firebox and produce more steam with less fuel usage. The problem was that it is an open system and water in was steam out and needed to be replaced or the boiler would run dry fairly quickly. This was why the tender had the large tank built in. It was to carry water for the boiler. As a rule these locomotives could go quite far with the fuel they could carry but had to stop frequently to fill the water tank from towers located along the track. Destroy the towers and no train of the time would have gotten very far.

I stand corrected. I enlarged the picture and saw that it does in fact come with pretty much all the PE one would normally hope for. Makes the price a little easier to bear. I have always liked the Flowers ever since I built the 1/72 Matchbox kit in 1986 when it first came out. Had to do a BUNCH of brass scratch building for it as like almost everything I built back then it was intended for RC operation and had to be tough. I guess she stood the test of time as she was run for several years off and on, and survived three moves and one shelf falling down from about five feet off of the floor. (I still have it and with very little work it could be just like new. I bought another kit years later intending to build a better version but never got to it as family and work was fully time consuming at the time. It was just before the Platinum version came out with the PE and wood decks. It still sits in the box it arrived in years ago. The picture of the 1/144 in your link looks like half the model will be PEby the time you get it built! Time to get yourself a copy of "The Cruel Sea" if you don't have it already. Put it under the "Movies to build ship models by" category.

That does add a lot to the looks. Boy you hit that on the head! A Japanese icebreaker! Will they have PE available for it? Or will you have to wing it?

It's funny you chose that tug. I was just looking at her the other day when I was looking for props to show you, (Couldn't find anything for this kind of tug though). If you look a little closer you can still see that after 55 years of working and being sold and resold multiple times she sank at her dock and the picture you have is after she was raised. Even after being neglected enough to have sunk and being under water for some time it looks like she was well painted above the waterline and probably was in much more of a pristine condition before she sank, even though she was possibly just sitting there waiting to be sold again or scrapped. If she had not been just another railroad tug they may have even spent the money to restore her to operational status. Tugs are a very unusual vessel. I do like the way your's is going. I am kind of glad that you don't want to spend all that much time on her. That way I won't need to wait as long for the finial result!

Looking forward to following along.

Hi IR Ron is right. start with a fairly large drill that opens up as much of the un-wanted material as possible and finish off with a #11 exacto size blade and small file if needed. Unless you are going to leave them open there is no need to go beyond just using the drill. All you will be able to see is through the three ports on the hatch. If you are going to leave them open then yes you will need to open the full squared out area like you have been doing. By the way I think you will find that the area under these skylights are the engine rooms. These ships were almost all engine! The crews didn't live on board so there was not much need for large crew accommodations. That was fairly common even in larger German ships. Are you going to do a build log on this model? I think it would be interesting to follow.

Hi J Did you make a CarFax report on all that frame damage? Great progress!