lmagna

No, but I did copy it and enlarged it to the point that it became a bit grainy, and in my opinion it is looking fantastic! It is sad to hear that after all that beautiful work that you won't be able to use it on this build. Are you going to go ahead and paint it? It might be interesting to choose a model based on the guns you have rather than the other way around. You did manage to scare me a little though when you showed how you had to drill the plastic for the barrels. Up to that point I had no idea how I was going to deal with the barrels on my 1.1" quads. NOW I KNOW! Not only is it the seeing but even the handling of these tiny parts while working on them is a challenge! Mine are the ones that Ken posted........... only MUCH smaller!

I know that you are not finished with the first gun as yet but I for one am very impressed Carl. I know just how small this gun assembly is in real life! Your work looks perfect even at the extremely close range it takes to even see it! Might be a little bit of jealousy regarding your abilities as well. Truly astounding.

Better watch out OC, I have a bunch of caramel corn left from Christmas, that stuff is sticky when it hits you!

Looking forward to your new build Jack. I'll quietly hide in the corner and watch, (So I can sneak up on you when you least expect it!) Did you ever get back to go onboard? Also are you going to replicate the "Nose art"?

They look almost identical to the 1.1" Quads I ordered from Veteran Models. The barrels look like legs from an ant! I will be looking forward to seeing how you are able to do with them! Good luck. It took me two months to get my MK 6 catapults from North Star How long did your guns take?

That would be OK except I don't want to still be paying taxes 900 years from now!

Glad to see you and the Death Star back at it Mark. I think your extra effort in doing your ships boats this way will pay big dividends in the long run. I too am big time jealous of your Death Star but to be honest I have no real idea what I would do with it if I did have one.

I agree with Mark and Carl nice work and I too appreciate the difficulty on working with this scale after seeing in person the size of the parts needed for my upcoming builds on the Houston/ Indianapolis/ Titanic in the same scale. Do you have a next in line? Or is it give the eyes a rest time? Nice work

I could be wrong, not all that uncommon for post WWII ships for me, but it looks more like a Russian Typhoon to me.

That is some impressive work.

You could look at these Sjors They are very tiny, come in many colors, can be battery powered or plugged into the wall and are easy to work with. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2M-20Led-30Led-Usb-Operated-Mini-Led-Copper-Wire-String-Fairy-Lights-Led-FBH-/323590829463?oid=153259375889 https://www.ebay.com/itm/3PCS-20-LED-Copper-Wire-Wedding-Home-Party-String-Fairy-Light-Friend-Gift-/173591482589?oid=153000008452

And to you and yours

I am trying to visualize everything before it is built. Sorry if I am a little muddled in my suggestions. For the hatch over the rudder linkage, it is a bit of a weather hazard as it has no combing to allow water to run off if it makes it to that level. I would just glue it into place using clear silicone glue. That way it should be water tight while still allowing emergency access at some later date if needed by cutting it open with a sharp knife and prying it up. If you built it right and got everything adjusted you will probably never need to get in there, I still see the main cabin as possibly more than one section. You have several recessed doorways along the cabin. If you were to separate the cabin into sections at the forward end of these recesses, (Or the aft end it probably doesn't really matter) and add full bulkheads all the way across at this point for each new section you would have a forward section that would be the bridge, including the bridge wings, and everything aft to the first doorway recess. Then you can add a short combing lip would fit inside that section of cabin to help locate it and act as a water proof barrier to stop water from running into the hull should it get that high for some reason. Then you would do the same to the next section back to the next recessed doorways, and finally the last that would incorporate the last section of cabin including the docking catwalk. You need not separate the next cabins up at the same location but you can use the closest inset doorways in the same way as you did on the lower boat deck. As this level of deck will be permanently attached to the deck below there is no real reason to build an internal bulwark if you do not wish to . You would do the same for all the levels above. I went to the first pictures you posted and it kind of looks like it could be done with little or no evidence of the breaks in the superstructure. It also looks like there is nothing located forward of the battery. (Even though you may need to add ballast up there to obtain a proper draft fore and aft) and could just make one break in the cabin with one long and one shorter length. Your last choice would be to build as you have been and make all three feet removable. In that case I would make the connection between the boat deck section and the next section very rigid and strong as possible with plenty of reinforcing bulkheads and strong corners. it will have to be able to hold its own shape even when removed and set down on its own. As for your stern docking catwalk support. I think I would just make them from brass rod bent into a flat U (Or n), affix the inboard vertical leg to the outside of the cabin wall with the horizontal bend flush at the top and just provide a hole in the deck to glue the base of the outboard vertical leg. You could join them together at the top for added strength as the whole thing will be covered by the catwalk when the cabin is in place. Kind of hard to come up with ideas and explaining them without being able to see the ship. sorry if it is no help. Have a great Christmas and New Year

I would think that it would depend on where the ship was most of the year and how active it was. Sitting in a harbor for long periods in warm water would promote the rapid growth of algae. Colder weather/water and a more active status I think would tend to limit parasitic growth. But having said that one must remember that the Russian fleet needed to stop in route on their trip half way around the world to clean their hulls so that they would be able to maintain a good speed when they met the Japanese fleet. Much of their voyage was in warm waters though.

I don't know Sjors It appears that you have a Rotterdam jinks. Are you sure you want to do this again?

Just in time for Christmas Hope you have a happy one jack.

Hi Steve That is one long cabin to have to remove all at once! Have you considered breaking it up into three or possibly even four lengths of cabin that can each be removed? Or possibly just removing the cabin roof and leaving the walls in place? Have you at least placed all of the needed items inside the hull and see if you will be able to install and remove them later when the superstructure is opened? This is one of the two big deals in RC construction. How to determine just how much of an opening you will need and how to disguise it. It may be that you need not remove the bridge at all or the cabin at the stern either. most of the stuff you place inside should be as close to the center of gravity fore and aft and as low in the hull as possible. If you think it will need frequent servicing then mount it on a platform that is removable so it can be worked on outside the hull. If you think it will be in a hard to get to place, build it like a tank! The rudder and rudder linkage most often falls into this category. You may be surprised just how small of an opening you can get away with. I have ran a four foot model ocean going tug in weather that had waves breaking over the bow and spray over the pilothouse and everything stayed dry inside, yet when people saw it on the shelf they had no idea it was an RC model.

Hi Chris I pretty much agree with all you are saying but I thought I could add a few things in no real order both for and against eBay depending on your personal feelings. DON'T get sucked into a bidding war. Who cares who is on top? The ONLY bid that is going to count is the LAST bid that is also the HIGHEST bid. Determine early how important the item is to YOU and how much you are willing to pay, and bid that amount. You will either win it at the price you are willing to pay or hopefully less or you will force someone else to pay more than you are willing to pay for the item! I have seen items involved in bidding wars that are already higher than the same item would be if you went a couple of spaces down and bought it as a Buy-it-now item! The same thing is true on looking on Amazon or directly from dealers as you suggest. While most dealers and individuals on the internet can be considered as honest within reason, there is always the exception. There is also the incidences where things just don't go as planed. I will list a few personal examples. 1. One of the first things I ever bought by way of eBay was a VERY expensive one of a kind doll for my wife. I did not win the bid and thought it was all over and started looking again. I received an email from the seller stating that the winning bidder had backed out and was I still interested? I told her yes and long story short she offered to sell it to me outside of eBay for a $100 less. I thought this was a good deal and went along with it and sent her the money. (I used PayPal but didn't know the rules regarding buying at the time. Long story a little shorter the doll arrived and when I opened it the Wax over porcelain head was smashed to bits! I contacted the seller and she refused to deal with it and said she had iot wrapped by a shipping store and gave me the number to contact. I live in Washington state and they were in Florida! They told me to take pictures and submit them to UPS as it was insured through UPS. I did this and told them that I did not want to surrender the doll I wanted to get it repaired. That was about the only thing I did right. After much back and forth and UPS dragging their heals they admitted responsibility and wrote a check for the repair costs. The only problem with that is that they pay the SHIPPER, or in this case the seller! You can probably guess the rest of it, she said that they wrote the check in her name and therefore it was hers! I never saw a dime of it. I ended up contacting the designer/maker in Germany and they told me that they had a spare head on hand from the actual limited production run and if I shipped it to them they could make a new head for the doll! Shipping back and forth and a couple of nail biting months later the doll came back and looked perfect. It now stands in a large display case and holds the title as the most expensive and exclusive doll I ever bought my wife. 2. Over the years I have made a few purchases on eBay that did not arrive. In every case it was pretty much just a matter of filing a claim with eBay and I got my money back within a few days, including shipping. More recently I bought a board game for my oldest son's 50th birthday. He had talked more than once about this game but stated that they were long out of production and pretty expensive. I personally would not have paid $10 for one but he was right. The only way to get the game was to pay outrageous prices for what was the most part total junk! Then I found what I was looking for and won it in a bid. Made my wife happy so I figured that was good for a couple of brownie points! The seller listed it as "100% complete - Supreme Condition - Epic find" and the pictures seemed to confirm her evaluation. Again skip to delivery time. First off I had to contact her after a week to see if she had even sent it. It turned out that she had not stating that she had some family matters come up and had forgotten it! She shipped it the next day and emailed me that she had to pay $100 for shipping instead of the $16 she had charged on her listing but since she had been so late she would pay the entire amount. (I didn't say anything at the time but she was going to pay it or default on the sale) Anyway package day arrived and so did the shock! Th package was smashed on one side and the igame instructions had almost fallen out! Fearing the worst I finished opening the shipping box to find what was left. The "Epic find" had become a flattened game box and the plastic game tower was in three pieces! A further inventory showed that it was complete but it was the "Pristine" part that I had bought it for. I contacted the seller and she said she would refund me if I sent it back to her. It took several emails trying to convince her that this was not the way it would go but she never seemed able to listen or offer any alternative. And this was after sending her pictures! She even said that I should work it out with UPS as it was their fault. I tried telling her that I had already done that and been there and was not going back! Finally I gave up and filed with eBay and they sent me a return label for free. I returned it to her in a new box and when the shipping showed that it had been delivered they refunded me the cost and shipping from the original listing. (They had already covered the return shipping with the return label) and my involvement was over! 3. The last example was for an item that I ordered from a possibly well known vender to us here at MSW who is located overseas. I did not know it at the time but the vender also maintains an eBay store and sells their entire product line through both their on line store and their eBay store. It ordered from their direct online store and within a few days was notified that they had shipped and provided a tracking number. The only problem was that the tracking always said that the postal service in the country in question was still waiting delivery of the item! I waited a little over two weeks and contacted them about it. They wrote back and requested that I give it another week and contact them again. So I waited another ten days and recontacted them. After a couple of days they emailed me and said that they had located it at the post office and that the delivery address had been removed or something like that. Anyway in a couple of more days the tracking at last showed some movement and in four more weeks it was delivered for a total of two months! If I had ordered it through their eBay store I would have been given an eBay time limit for delivery and if not delivered in that time would have been protected. I am sure that this vender is honest but I really was getting to the point that I was thinking I was just going to have to kiss it and the money it cost goodby as I didn't have much leverage against the seller by buying directly. So eBay has it's short comings and like it has already been said the really nice deals are few and far between it seems. But sometimes it is possible to get something there you can find nowhere else, or buy something without having to worry too much about the honesty of the seller, or accidents in shipping. PayPal is also your friend in most cases, even outside of eBay.

I could be wrong, it would not surprise me in the least, but I think those "Hammock" railings are just an answer to two problems with the replica ship. First off, unlike the Providence replica they built the bulwarks at the lower, more historic height for a ship of her type. That required the additional railings to keep the present day passengers from falling overboard. They of course, like you noted, need to also accommodate the Coast Guard PFD requirements so what better way than to duplicate the hammock look.

I'm getting so that it doesn't matter much anymore. I do better with subtitles even in English! My hearing realized that my vision was going away and has been following in the same direction! I agree with the others though I can't believe you are drilling that many holes with nothing but a pin vice. I found a small single speed battery operated hand drill at my local hardware store that runs at 450 rpm, bought a micro chuck and when I tried it out on the Indianapolis it worked like a champ. I did the entire port side in less time than it took me to do about ten portholes on the starboard side with a pin vice. I had more control as well and it appeared that there would be less chance of breaking a drill.

WOW I don't dare show those pictures to my wife! She has collected the Byers Figures for years. She and my daughter-in-law would make a special trip to their visitor's center in PA and buy one or two figures when she went to visit them every year. But she doesn't have nearly that many! Now the kids don't live in PA anymore so she hasn't bought any for a couple of years, but if she sees your wife's collection she probably will start reminding me that I am a terrible husband berate me for not getting her more for her collection like you have done for your wife. (It does not make any difference if you bought them for her or not, that will still be the standard I will be judged by!)

Great progress Jack. Good to see that you haven't lost your shipyard for the duration of the holiday season like some of us!

Those really do look nice.

Nice work Carl

Or you could try here if you really insist on the Floquil paint and don't mind the expense too much. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Testers-Floquil-Rust-2-Emamel-Stain-NOS/192731370481?hash=item2cdfaf53f1:g:5WEAAOSwmepb9Kav:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true