lmagna
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Everything posted by lmagna
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In that case, the method you described in your first post should work OK. If I was building this model again I would seriously consider these sails: https://www.hismodel.com/constitution/united-states-1-96-sada-plachet As they are probably better than anything I could make in 1/96th scale, Possibly in any scale! At $103 they are probably more expensive than the kit though!- 209 replies
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Hello Mike and welcome. Are you interested in making cloth sails, or buying cloth sails?
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Another thing about repairing the quarter window and replacing the yardarms is that you get some experience in scratch building and working in wood. Both of these things will help in your next build if you transition over to the dark side and build your next ship from a box of expensive wood strips or even worse, full scratch!
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You might try and send a PM to Eugene, (Greenstone) of Master Korabel. While this is not a kit manufactured by his company, he is possibly the best source we have here at MSW for 19th century Russian navel research, and may be willing to help with contemporary Russian colors. Later today when I get some time, I will try to look look at my kit for the Brigantine Phoenix, (Master Korabel) and see what they suggest for colors. Someone else may have some better original source information and may post it in the meantime.
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Kp No need to feel bad about the pictures. I think we have all found a way to follow your build by working our own work around's. Concentrate on your build and as Dubz says try and upload the pictures directly from your phone and the problem should go away at our end. I have no idea on how to upload pictures directly from a phone but I am sure you can do it.
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I actually did once. I'll send you a PM with the details.
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Will this do you Craig? http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/cz/plany-lodi/le-chebec-plan You still have to open each page but it should work I think.
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I agree with Carl and Ken. Your work is every bit in par with any museum ship I have ever seen. Possibly I only go to low quality museums but I don't think that is the case. You have to remember that the pictures in the books are all taken with perfect light and professional photographers and like the pictures in Playboy are probably touched up as well.
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I agree with el cid, glue first and prime afterward. Once you get that done you acn start painting and masking as needed to do the rest of the stuff. It is safer to paint the small parts while still on the trees but you will need to clean the paint off of the places where they need to be glued to expose the bare plastic in order to make certain you get a good glue connection. You may find it is easier to sometimes glue the part into place and then paint it with a brush. I suppose I am trying to say that there is no single way to do it and sometimes you will need to figure out what works best for you.
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Hi Mark What I have been doing is copying the link at the top of the page here in Chrome, open IE, (Tell it that I DO NOT want it as my default browser) paste it in place in IE and hit "enter." As far as I know only this page opens. I leave the Chrome addition open as well as everything else works in Chrome and I just switch back when I am done with this post.
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I am surprised that the Kraken isn't hugging the buoy being retrieved over by the shore, they look like cousins!
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Nice to see you starting your build log Ozark. I think you will do OK, after all the kit box says 14 +! Did you buy it second hand already opened? Seems like a lot of stuff out of place and broken for being new.
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The US battleships of WWI with their cage masts always look so primitive next to their British counterparts, at least to me. Again a great looking picture Jim. I always enjoy stopping by and taking a look when you post a new one. You never disappoint.
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Ozark No one knows it all. Post your progress on the Constitution and continue as you have started by reaching out with questions when you wish to understand and sooner than you know you will be able to pass your new found knowledge and abilities on to others. That is how this forum works. The collective knowledge will almost always be able to solve any question.
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Yeah, some of my Sawzall blades are something like 9" long! I could shake the whole box of paints at the same time! MORE POWER! With the small amount of paint in modeling jars there may not be enough stirring action in the jar to get the job done on some older, thicker paints though where you really need a stick or the spinning prop idea. HMMM! I do have an old milkshake making machine down in the basement. Ideas are starting to form! Beware.... Evil scientist at work!
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That is my favorite!!!! I could also make a special saw blade for my saws-all and just clip it in when needed.
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Hi Ozark Here is a list as I see it. Others may have a more detailed description or comprehensive list. PE = Photoetch Styrene/ Polystyrene pretty much interchangeable in this contex Some kits come with photoetch and others do not, but many kits do have after market photoetch details available. Very few kits come with resin parts. Resin parts are usually more accurate or detailed castings of fixtures on the model and are most often after market replacements for items that are already in the kit, or additional items for enhanced detailing of a kit. They are most often created by small cottage industry companies. A relatively new product that could be added to this list is 3D printed parts. These are very similar to resin castings, but in many or most cases are more finely detailed as they are computer generated and not restricted the mold process required by both the original plastic kit and the resin process.
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Thank you Fernando I have not really built any kits. I am currently using an AL kit as a base for another ship but my modifications are extensive enough that it would not be fair to judge the kit by my build. I looked over these kits and it is nice that they have such a unique selection of historically important vessels. from Australia's colonial period. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one.
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Hello Barkeater I think I need to apologize not you. I was not trying to be critical, But my comment did come across that way when I read it over just now after reading your reply. I should have not worded it the way I did. Your heads up about the topic being about plastic models not wooden models is, and was valid,
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What you said is true but Kieth did pretty much limit his answer to glues that would be used in building a plastic model. The only thing I would possibly add would be the use of either wood(White Glue) or some other glues designed for the purpose when attaching clear plastic parts in order to keep them from glazing. Not a normal requirement when building plastic ships but could be applicable.
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You could try and build a four sided shadowbox style frame consisting of top, ends, and bottom and get a sheet of clear Vinyl or Plexiglas at your local hardware store to cover the front and back, (Sometimes our stores here have remnants that they will sell at a lower cost). At any rate the cost, when building it that way should not amount to all that much.
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Hi Ken I did a Win 7 update last night and the results are still the same, no pictures after post #2 I will have to see what happens when KP makes another post. I think there may also be an issue that the oldest outdated system in my house is ME! Jack, XP? Wow you are almost dating back to the Neanderthal, or at least the Cro Magnon period. Do your kids laugh at you and give you sideways looks when they think you are not looking like mine do?
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What do you think of the Modelers Shipyard kits in general Fernando? By your comment in your post it looks like this is at least your second kit by this manufacturer. They certainly seem to have a unique selection.
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I think that is true of most builds I follow. Mine will be a little different as I intend to paint it so there is little need to upgrade to higher quality woods and many of the other kit replacement items that others are compelled to do. But even then I suspect I will add at least half or more to the original cost of the kit in upgrades by the time I am done.
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