Jim Rogers

A band clamp without the corners employed would work the same as rubber bands. It would apply equal pressure around the hull and in some cases would be easier to apply.

You just need to find one small enough to use.

Go on the Model Shipways site and find the SYREN. Open it up and the open instructions, Chapter 1. This shows the absolute easiest way to make a rabbet.  Simply put, sand a little bevel and then glue on a wood strip. Eliminates much of the knife work.

Cedar dust is my nemesis. I have been to the emergency room twice because of it with severe breathing issues. Figured out what was causing the issues after the second trip. I now wear a mask and I use a shop installed vacuum system with a cyclone separator. The issue as stated previously is that the ports on our hobby machines are not a standard shop machine size. People ALWAYS accuse me of having my shop “too clean”, even the photos I posted on the forum had the same quotes. You can’t be to clean when it comes to good dust management. I usually vacuum the surrounding area when I complete a cutting job. I worked in the Ordnance field for over  45 years and being clean and tidy is just second nature.

55 minutes ago, fnkershner said:

Ok I get it. But most of it will be covered by planking. Nice wood. I hope it wasn't costly.

It is the planking.

1 hour ago, fnkershner said:

Jim - what are you using for the lintels and sills? looks like a different wood. Maybe Cherry?

Bloodwood/Redheart. I am also going to use it for interior framing. Not going to paint the bulwarks just apply a finish.

In order to make Deck planking easier and to add strength I basically built a solid hull. Made fairing easier and lots of area to glue too when planking.

Peter she looks great. You should be proud.

I have used a wipe on Poly,  a wipe on finish called “The Good Stuff” which I love and a spray on poly. The problem on when to apply is tricky because the build is not complete and sometimes, dependent on which you choose, you must sand off to glue on parts. And the flip side the finish does protect the paint. I would finish the hull now and again it is a beaut.

10 hours ago, Jaager said:

Why not use an aqueous aniline wood dye?

Wood Craft has pre mixed concentrates that can be mixed to

produce a continuum of possible shades.

Test it on your available wood stock to find the best compatibility and result.

With a deep penetrating dye, the grain is not hidden.

 

Given your location, have you checked out:

http://worldofhardwoods.com/Location.php

 

I use their dyes and they are great. The Ebony is awesome.

Have fun and take your time.

Define “a bit” ? over two weeks equals sorry customer service in my book.

Makes sense and also why I have never seen them before as they would be attached just prior to raising the anchor and then stored.

I have had zero luck with Wood Project Source and Lumberyard. I ordered Ocooch and I am happy with their product. Woodcraft should be a good source for woods used commonly for building boxes and furniture. Rockler also has wood available.  I am having problems getting a hold of Costello Boxwood and Holly. I am going to drive over to Edensaw next week and see if the have any Holly. I’ll have to mill it myself but at least I’ll have it. 

Jesse what are those lines you attached to the anchor lines and what is their purpose/function?

Very nice planking job and good thinking on the mast holes.

53 minutes ago, mikiek said:

Lee - believe it or not  have found a relativley safe way to transport the boat. I use one of those foam holders, I think MicroMark sells them. Cradles the hull firmly then I pile towels or blankets all the way around that. Of course you do need a SUV.

 

The boat didn't roll or even tilt and was in perfect condition at my destination. And I used to hear horror stories of major destruction during transport.

 

Jim - that's the plan. Build a frame of 2x4s and fix the legs to that. Then set the case on top.

Mike that ship and case are beautiful. Put a nice oak apron on it and get a set of nice turned legs. Repurpose some old Queen Anne legs.

On 11/16/2017 at 3:15 PM, mikiek said:

Case is ready! Went to go pick it up - too big for the car   It's gi-normous.  From the tip of the bowsprit to the end of the spanker boom, you don't realize how big these things are.

 

Will have to go back with the truck tomorrow. May also need a Plan B in case my dad decides it's all too big for his mantle. Then I'll have to make him something else

Put a set of legs on the case and make it a stand up display. It will look great. Very nice job.

Looks perfect to me.

Take care Chuck you and yours are in our prayers.

I would be real careful with a low flame as a disaster would just be a micro second away. The hair dryer or heat gun is probably your best option. Time and distance is the key. You really only need just a smidgen of pliability to get the job done.

I made mine adjustable using threaded rod locked in place with nuts on both sides.

I don’t see how there could be $500 worth of difference between these two saws. Personally I would get the Dewalt and use the $500 towards a Mini Milling machine. You could explain to the Admiral how you saved money by getting two pieces of equipment for the price of one.

How is your hull fairing?

You could also try a steam box

I had no problems with the shapers.

A true Shipwright.