Jim Rogers

Looks like the perfect place to display ship models.

I think this would be great for a Group Project with parts and monographs published like you did the Winnie.

There should have been a roll of plans showing each assembled frame in scale. I scanned each frame and used the prints of each as a pattern when assembling them.

I received my kit yesterday. Where are these rib drawings located? All I have is the assembly instructions and parts list/drawings.

OK, I have just finished what I need to regarding building up the new Speedy hull.
 
These pics will show what has changed. The old Speedy required planking all the way to the top of the bulwarks, also the inner bulwarks. 
 
The new version is completely pre cut from the main wale up, with spirketting added for the inner bulwarks, plus engraved planking and treenail detail for all surfaces. All channels, inner bulwark belaying racks and cleats now slot and glue into place, in pre cut slots, saving the need for pinning and gluing.
 
Please bear in mind that the model shown has no real finishing, no varnish etc. It was used just to add new pictures to the revised manual.
 
I will now spend the rest of the week updating the manual, ready to send to printers, and next week, start cutting the new sheets, so I hope to have this re released in around 2 weeks.

Lower Planking and Wales
 
So I went ahead and followed the instructions for the simplified planking, first with garboard and a couple of lower planks.  These are supposed to be 3/16" for all 6 but there were only 5 provided, so I did the garboard with a 1/4".  Then the middle section, followed by the stern and bow sections.  I ended up with quite a crazy quilt of planks!   But since it'll all be under copper and paint below the wales, I'm not sweating it too much.  Here it's rough filled and sanded, I will do a finer sanding once the other side is done.  I did the wales with some  extra 1/4" strip instead of the 1/8" planking. 
 

 

 

I am getting closer .....mass production of CNC blocks...I apologize for my lack of inventory for so long but we are perfecting the process.  I havent had blocks in stock for months.  It shouldnt be long now.  I want to be able to bring you the best CNC blocks possible at a ridiculously low price.   A lot lower than you might even imagine.   My rope is the cheapest available for the quality and lengths available.   I am hoping to do the same with some superior blocks in Boxwood and Swiss pear.  Automated so I can concentrate on my ship model projects like Speedwell.  I cant tell you how long and hard this R&D process has been.  So many experiments and so many failures.   Successes are few but we learn from every failed batch made.   I wish I could explain what goes into figuring this stuff out.  Lots of time and lots of money.
 
Hot out of the oven before polishing and tumbling.  Sorry for the lack of inventory but it will be so worth the wait it I promise.
 


 

All of the frames that sit directly on the keel, 8 - 45, are finished and the built-up bow frames are roughed in. It was nice that the frames 1 - 7 fit very nicely in the building jig and required very little adjusting of the slots in the jig for a good fit. Now to get the aft frames 46 - 53 installed.  I didn't get a picture of frames 27 - 45 installed so next update will have all the frames shown.
 
 

Once I shaped the and sanded the proper sheer it was time to add the fairing cap.   I did in fact sand the top of the sheer as Greg describes.  Either a side to side sanding with the stick posted in the last update or by holding the stick on one side as a pivot.  Then sanding on the opposite side with the stick moving it in an arch fore and aft.  
 
The fairing cap will now be added.  This serves two purposes and I discovered with the Winnie project that this is a great design element to help me when fairing inboard.
 
First it establishes a consistent width along the entire sheer.  It will be hard to screw that up as long as I dont sand into the strip.  The fairing cap is 5/32" wide.
 
In addition,  the fairing cap is glued to the top of each frame which really strengthens the hull.  There is no wiggle in any of the frames as you fair inboard or out.
 
There are 2 sections of fairing cap for the waist.   I added the forward piece first (#1)...then the aft section (#2).   These must be added first because a hance piece sits on top of the forward length.  We will add that later.  These are labeled #1 and #2 on the laser cut sheet.  When gluing these on the outside edge is flush with the outboard framing which should already be faired.  You can see below what remains inboard to be faired.  The only fairing I have done inboard up to this point is whatever I managed to get done progressively after raising a half dozen frames.  I had reached inside under those cross jigs to at least get rid of the heavy stuff.  But the cant frames are virtually untouched.
 
The qdeck fairing cap (#3) needs to be beveled on the aft end to sit flush against the transom.   The bow section of fairing cap is self explanatory.   Just make sure its flush with the outboard framing for all four of these pieces.   Then you will know exactly how much material you need to remove inboard.   
 


In this photo after the fairing cap was added,  the two hance pieces were added at the bow.  You can see how it sits on top of the waist fairing cap.  Also check out the framing plan for clarity.  Its at the break in the waist up to the fcastle sheer.   A scroll will be added much later after we finish planking everything.
 

I originally thought that I would need to wait until all the outboard planking was completed before I could fair inboard.  But the hull seems so strong with the fairing caps glued on so I just decided to go for it.
 
The gull has now been completely faired inboard...or about 98% there.   There are still some areas that will require some "noodling".  But I really wanted to get this done because it makes so much dust and its a pain in the butt.  I started with 60 grit sandpaper to get rid of the heavy steps from frame to frame.  Then I switched to 150 grit and then to 120 grit.  Remember when you are doing this NOT to reduce the fairing cap.  Its inevitable that you may hit it from time to time and you may remove the laser char but try and keep the width of the sheer as consistent as you can.   The fairing cap helps you do this.  Here is a picture after finishing up the inboard fairing.  Now I can return to the outboard planking with a much cleaner hull. Although I am compelled to add the keelson first just to make the inboard area even cleaner.   Its nice NOT to have to look at all that unkempt framing and laser char.  It cleaned up rather well dont you think?  
 

There are a bunch of contemporary models with guns run out.  But they are hard to find.  But they are out there.   I present Amazon as a great example.  This is a model that was built at a high level of detail and craftsmanship.   Not all contemporary models are.  So this is a superb example to use.
 
one thing I am struck by is how much the guns protrude from the hull.  This helps clear them from rigging and such.  This detail is almost always understated with kits.  The supplied cannon can not be run out as far as they should be.  The reason why…because the supplied carriages are designed incorrectly.
 
in addition they are centered but slightly lower in each port as you can see. But keep in mind many of the guns can and should be adjusted because they shifted on their carriages over time.  Had the museum done this before taking the photos the may have appeared slightly higher in their ports.  
 
Just like with our models…the guns will sometimes shift on the carriage and the entire carriage may shift.  So look carefully at this photo to see those which need some care and adjustment.
 

The case is finished with the Winnie installed. I think they really compliment each other. The Pegasus stands were inset using the Shaper Origin, as was the name engraving. The design of the case uprights were all my buddy Joe Kaare. He is a great wood craftsman. We have been designing and building my ship cases together for years. Here are some finishing photos

I would like to suggest Bremerton WA. You have the Naval Museum at the Puget Sound Naval shipyard and the Undersea Warfare Museum at Torpedotown Keyport Wa and I know the undersea museum has plenty of space.

When we decide that an event is possible we will absolutely keep Bremerton in mind.  A conference needs a minimum of 18 months lead time and 24 months is a lot better.   I have added your names as contacts in Bremerton if we consider it as a future Conference or regional seminar location.
 
 

I would like to suggest Bremerton WA. You have the Naval Museum at the Puget Sound Naval shipyard and the Undersea Warfare Museum at Torpedotown Keyport Wa and I know the undersea museum has plenty of space.

I would like to suggest Bremerton WA. You have the Naval Museum at the Puget Sound Naval shipyard and the Undersea Warfare Museum at Torpedotown Keyport Wa and I know the undersea museum has plenty of space.

I would like to suggest Bremerton WA. You have the Naval Museum at the Puget Sound Naval shipyard and the Undersea Warfare Museum at Torpedotown Keyport Wa and I know the undersea museum has plenty of space.

Sadly so.  We are still hiding from COVID.

Dove her on my Truk Lagoon trip.

The first thing that needs to be done in preparation for planking is to paint the port openings.  It is much easier to do so now and those familiar with all of my Syren projects will recognize this step.   I am using the same Crimson Acrylic red for this model that I use for all of them.   
 
One note however,  rather than just start painting,   this model has many laser cut sweep ports.   The insides of the sweep ports have laser char on them.   You really cant successfully just paint over that.   The red wont cover it and will appear too dark.  You dont want to sand it off.  That would be bad.  It would change the precision shape of those port openings.  
 
Instead of sanding,  I painted the insides of the sweep ports with a very light tan first.   This will cover the char without compromising the shape of the sweep ports.   I mixed Titanium White with some brown and yellow Ochre.  Once that paint dried I switched to the Crimson.
 
One additional note....The quarter badge opening and window area was painted tan and will NOT be painted red.   This will be left tan as the great cabin will remain unpainted.
 
Once the painting was complete I taped the two templates into position on both sides of the model.
 

This is a VERY important step.   Just like when using a batten,  you must view the hull at all angles.  Ensure that the template is even on both sides of the hull.   The bottom edge of the templates represent the top edge of the wales.   You will be carefully tracing along the bottom edge of each template to mark the location for the first planking strake to be placed on the hull.
 
Make sure the run is good and at equal height at the bow and stern both port and starboard.
 

I forgot to mention that you should cut out all of the sweep ports and gunports from the template before taping it on the hull.  In addition,  cut out the fixed blocks on the templates too.   You will be tracing and marking the exact locations for the fixed blocks and the sweep port covers as well as the bottom edge of the templates.
 
We will be adding the sweep port covers to the hull soon so we can plank around them.  The same is true for the fixed block shells.  
 
Use a hard lead pencil so it keeps a sharp point longer.  Yes the lead will leave a lighter line but it will be more precise. Use a 4H or even a 6H pencil for marking the hull.
 
When you are done tracing these elements and the bottom edge of the templates, remove the them carefully.  We will be using them again many times.  Cut away any tape that hangs over the edges of the template.  Dont try and remove it...the template will tear.   Then store the templates safely for later use.
 
Here is what the hull looks like after removing the templates.
 

You can hopefully see my reference line that shows the top edge of the wales.  But its hard to see the sweep port lines in the photo.  Thats OK.  Just know that they are there.  You can see the locations of the fixed blocks.
 
We will be adding the first strake which represents the first layer for the top of the wales.   This is probably the most crucial of planking steps.  So take you time with it.  If the run and fit for this first plank is wrong then all of your planking will be wrong.   It will be hard to recover from that.
 
The strips are 7/32" x 3/64" Yellow cedar.   I have a whole bunch of them ready to go.  All have been matched for color.  All three strakes for the wales are 7/32" wide.  Try really hard to align the top of the strip with your reference line on the hull.   Make sure you match the placement port and starboard.
 
I wont rehash how to plank and how to bend the strips.   I have done that so many times.   Just refer to the tutorials and many logs on this site.  Or download the respective chapters for the Cheerful or the Winchelsea.   I am using a travel iron and bending and twisting as usual.  The first strake or the upper wales have been completed.  At least the first layer.  I prefer to use two layers.  You could however just use a thicker strip and complete the upper and lower strakes in one layer instead.  Its up to you.   But I personally prefer two layers because I think I can do a much better and cleaner job with the painting and placement.
 
With this upper wale in place...now its time to add two more strakes of the same width and thickness below this one.   It sounds easy enough,  but remember to get a good tight fit against the strakes already on the hull.  I am also using a #2 pencil to shade one edge of each strake to simulate the caulking.   Although on the upper and lower wales its not important.  Its only the first layer.  I would however simulate the caulking on the middle layer of the wales because it is only one layer thick.  I a referring to the butt joints only.
 
One last very important note:   When gluing these three strakes for the wales onto the hull, make sure you glue the strips to each and every frame.   Its the planking that will hold the hull together when we remove the top jigs.   So the frames need to be really secure to the planking.   Place a drop of glue  (your choice of PVA or CA) to each and every frame as you proceed.  When we complete two or three strakes above the wales later,  thats when we will remove the top jigs and establish the sheer properly.  So thats coming up soon.   If the planks arent secured to the frames it might be a disaster in the making.  But maybe not.  I am just a nervous Nelly.

 
 

I finished the first layer for the wales.  Basically I added two more strakes below the first that was added.   I show this image because its the first that gives you a good indication of what the hull will eventually look like.  This is as low as the planking will reach on the hull.   Everything you see below the wales is left unplanked and these frames will remain visible.   I do love a fully planked hull though.  Its my preference actually.  But like everyone else,  I would be crazy to cover up all of that hard work with the frames.
 
I will add two more strakes now above the wales.   They are also 7/32" wide.   Then it will be time to remove all of the top jigs.   Yippeee!!!
 
Chuck
 

Beautiful work. I wish I had an ounce of your talent.

Chuck I know you are quite busy. I have a question. My brother wants to purchase a Medway Longboat Kit and I note they are out of stock. Do you have plans on restocking?

Chuck I know you are quite busy. I have a question. My brother wants to purchase a Medway Longboat Kit and I note they are out of stock. Do you have plans on restocking?

I have all the parts laser cut for a small run of kits and will be putting them together for purchase this week.    I cannot reserve them though before you ask.  First come first serve whenever I finish them up.  I have far more folks who wishto reserve a kit than actual kits in this run so it wouldnt be fair to pick. 
 
 I just reopened the store and I am getting clobbered.   So it may be towards the end of the week.
 
Chuck

Chuck I know you are quite busy. I have a question. My brother wants to purchase a Medway Longboat Kit and I note they are out of stock. Do you have plans on restocking?