Estoy_Listo

Hello all thanks again for the views and comments
no apology needed popeye I thank you for your intervention and I am glad other billings bounty builders can see the reccomemded ten mm vrs the eight mm and decide for themselves how they would like to proceed  credit to don also for suggesting eight mm
 
my goal for this evening was to fit the mainmast upper shrouds and make a start on the mainmast ratlines I smashed that and had a really progressive evening I hope to complete all the main mast ratlines by tomo evening then its onto the mizzen
 
oh and hi Derek good to see you back buddy hope all is going well on the bluenose
 
 

I'm glad that you don't feel like I'm critiquing in any way........it's not my nature    artistic licence is paramount in my book.   it just that I've seen other Bounty builds,  and the ratlines have been done closer together.   you've done a superb job with them,  and I didn't want it to come back to haunt you......especially near the finish where things would be in the way.   5 - 8 mm is good,  considering the scale.   are you going to keep the snake?   I can't recall seeing a build with it,  but you've done a super job with too.......hate to see you remove it. 

Hello all
having not worked on the bounty for a full week I thought I would ease myself back into things by checking some things of the snag list
here is the letters added to the transom which I think turned out great
 

 
had a redo on the anchors adding a small block for more detail
 

 
this contraption hold the foremast at the correct angle so I can see the angle of the shrouds and add the chain plates
 

 
I opted to replace the billings chainplates and went amita this required a small link to be built
 

 
that's it for now guys thanks for following and the likes and comments
 
steve

Long overdue update, but spring is a busy time for me with kids, yard stuff, etc.  I've been making progress over the last couple of weeks, planking the section of the hull between the main rail and planksheer (which is in yellowheart).  It really wasn't all that bad using ebony.  It's not as easy to work as pear or boxwood, but it cuts very cleanly and sands to a beautiful sheen.   I'm cutting strips about 0.7mm in thickness, so they are pretty flexible.

 
 
It's probably hard to tell from the pictures, but the first section of the bow to about the third bulkhead is comprised of 10 rows of planks (approximately 1.2mm in width).  The remainder is six rows.  In looking at pictures of the Morgan, the planks in the six-row section of the hull are beveled at the edge.  
 

With the ebony planks only being 0.7mm in thickness, beveling was out of the question.  So, what I ended up doing is taking a scalpel and slowly working it between the plank rows to add a little more definition between the planks.  Seems to have worked out ok, I'll try to take close-ups soon.
 
After that, I sanded the planksheer back to the edge of the ebony planking.  This will ensure that when I put the holly molding along the planksheer, it will be a uniform thickness along the hull.  I also planked the transom with some thin basswood strips, and added wood filler to the filler block areas since I did a crappy job with the filler blocks in sanding back certain areas too much.
 
Thanks for looking in!

Beautiful work with the ebony, Mike.  I can't wait to see close-ups.  And that is a curious planking pattern, as you say.  I've seen others on MSW build the Charles W Morgan, but haven't read enough to understand the reason behind that curiosity.  Could you offer any background?
 
Enjoy your yard work  while you can -- if it's 100 F here, I assume it will be that hot in DC soon enough!!
 
Cheers (Sweatin' in Oklahoma),
 
Martin

Have fun, Derek.  See you when you get back.  

Hi all new to this forum and to the hobby I'm shifting from my long time hobby of model railways due to my disability and hoping that I can get as much enjoyment from model boat building as I have with my railways I will  have my grandson helping me in this endeavour  something he is also looking forward to

Hi Guys I'm signing off from posting on the log till September so here are the last couple of photos before I moor her up.

RE: craft store acrylics. Cheap, yes but for a reason. All "acrylics" are not created equal. "Acrylic" is a generic chemical term for a large class of water borne plastic paint vehicles.  Adhesion to wood is a given and easy to achieve. Appearance after application and drying is another thing entirely. Quality hobby acrylics have superior flow and leveling once applied and are optimized for airbrushing and hand brushing. They also contain additives  and employ finer particle grades of pigments to assist in optimizing those properties.
 
Don't believe me? Here's a comparison test for you: brush coat a flat smooth surface (glass, Styrene sheet) using a cheap craft store acrylic and any Vallejo paint. Toughest comparison would be a gloss black. Easiest would be flat white. Now do the same with an airbrush. Go right out of the bottle with both paints.
Best
Jaxboat

I know the original topic was "Prepare wood for acrylic paint", not "Acrylic Paint", but I wanted to chime in regarding the use of artists acrylics (out of a tube).  While BADGER brand may not be available to you, I am sure artist acrylics are. 
 
    I used to use BADGER almost exclusively, then I read some of Chuck P.'s posts on painting in his CONFEDERACY or WINCHELSEA logs.  He uses many coats of highly diluted artist acrylics and comes up with a GREAT finish.  Since I am a fan of the more earthy colors that one might find in the1 700s, rather than the artificially bright colors of today, I find these paints give me a lot more flexibility.  I have at least 8 different hues of red.  YOWZA.  Anywho, just a thought.

Done with planking the cockpit. Now on to caprail and sits

one extra tip, especially for large/long areas.  you want to keep your brush strokes the same length through out your painting work.
when you hit the 'long' stretches people tend to take longer brush strokes to cover those areas faster, but you end up with an uneven coat (thick on the ends and thin in the middle).

Cheers all
Bindy - I use Tamiya masking tape. I like it as it has a low tack so it doesn't effect the finishes underneath it. It also doesn't leave a glue residue. That said there are any number of cheaper tapes out there but Tamiya seems popular here and is easy to get.
 
Jase - never heard of Micro-mesh but good advice. I'll have to see if we can get it here.
 
Cheers
Alistair

My  vote for acrylic.
 
You can mix them.
 
You can make them transparent if you want/need
 
You can plasticize surface/piece with them if you need it.
 
You can even use them as putty if you need/want for little gasps
 
You can sand them.
 
You can paint over them ( useful if you want really straight line when contrast is essential between two surfaces with different color.
 
You can make little relief applying dot-by-dot.
 
With only dots, you can even imitate little rivets on hull
 
You can ... 
 
For large surfaces - attention - very fast drying, and must use adequate substance to slow it
 
If you use hand brushes, particularity small ones, acrylic "eats" them, so often wash and clean brushes as good as you are able to
 
Strongly suggest to test always before applying   

Hello again! It might have taken a while, but I had fun with it! I finished the outer hull planking. I think I enjoyed it more this time because I had a better idea of what I was doing. Anyway, here are the pictures.
 

This is not really a build log as I have my Xebec completed waiting for its display case. These pics are pretty much the completed model !

Hi Ken, I upload photo's directly from my computer photo files, and they appear along the bottom of the log entry I am making. You can do this for all the photo's you wish to include in a particular log entry.
I type in the blurb for the log, and then move the cursor below the line of print and click on the photo I wish to select which then appears in the body of the log.
Again move the cursor below the photo and begin writing again in the body of the log, and so on.
 
Hope this helps.
 
B.E.

It would seem that Peterssen's problem would be with the models he chose to document, unless there is a reason to believe he did not
accurately report what he observed.
 
Seems a bit ironic, in that contemporary models are often the go-to authority in these discussions.
 
 

Before I dive into this, I thought I'd get some feedback, just in case this might lead to buying tools I can't afford.
 
Thoughts are to build the interior as pictured below and allow for the raised deck roof to be removed for easier showing.  The total area represents about 4.25" x 5.5".  There would be a Nav Station, Galley, cushioned seating, two (maybe three) sets of stairs and all the rest.  I've drawn it up to scale (not the one you see below), with dimensions, and will probably create a 3D drawing to make sure it looks proper. 

What skills would be needed?  What tools would be needed for the wood and fabric and cushions?  What about all the windows?  They would have to be flush on the decks.
 
The majority of tools I have are for life-size projects.  I have a Dremel 4000 with the drill press base, flex extension and most of the adapters.  For milling wood to dimension I'd have to make up a router table for a Bosch Colt and/or build some setup for a Jet spindle sander.  No Byrnes table saw.  No milling machines.  I do have a variable speed wood lathe but it's a 36".  Probably too large?
 
Thanks in advance for any advice and warnings. 

Hey Popeye, I've followed a number of your posts and logs. I've learned a lot from you,  especially the Flattie build. I recall that you and Dee Dee were exchanging ideas for making hoops.  
 
I had an "adventure in clamping" in which I maybe used a little too much force, clamping at the bow.  I split the deck and lost some wood from the hull. (Boy, those clamps sure do fly!)  
I repaired it the same way I've repaired wallboard. I enlarged and squared off the hole in the hull and glued in some bracing, then I cut and glued a filler piece. I'm satisfied w/ the results, but it will take some filler to fix, and it may take some effort to get the stem to fit.  We'll see.   
 
I started the mast and boom while waiting for the glue to dry. Drilling a series of 1/16 in inch holes in an 1/8 inch gaff gave me pause, but it worked out great.  Surprising for me.  The six inch tri-square that I bought at the local box store helped immensely.  It was a good purchase.  I got a strong six inch rule w/ clear markings, a tri-square, and a scribe that I used to center the hole.  And like I say, it helped me drill straight and true.  
 
Thanks to those who have stopped by and who have wished me well.
 
Mark

Hey Popeye, I've followed a number of your posts and logs. I've learned a lot from you,  especially the Flattie build. I recall that you and Dee Dee were exchanging ideas for making hoops.  
 
I had an "adventure in clamping" in which I maybe used a little too much force, clamping at the bow.  I split the deck and lost some wood from the hull. (Boy, those clamps sure do fly!)  
I repaired it the same way I've repaired wallboard. I enlarged and squared off the hole in the hull and glued in some bracing, then I cut and glued a filler piece. I'm satisfied w/ the results, but it will take some filler to fix, and it may take some effort to get the stem to fit.  We'll see.   
 
I started the mast and boom while waiting for the glue to dry. Drilling a series of 1/16 in inch holes in an 1/8 inch gaff gave me pause, but it worked out great.  Surprising for me.  The six inch tri-square that I bought at the local box store helped immensely.  It was a good purchase.  I got a strong six inch rule w/ clear markings, a tri-square, and a scribe that I used to center the hole.  And like I say, it helped me drill straight and true.  
 
Thanks to those who have stopped by and who have wished me well.
 
Mark

Here you go--nice little build. Everything fits. For me, the best part of any build is when you can see its form and still see into its heart

One thing Ive seen over and over, within this forum and in others, is that many common questions arise that typically already answered at length in other places.  Any trip to another forum and you will see that asking a question like this normally is immediately followed by some snark comment about you not doing any due dilligence or research.   One thing Ive always appreciated about this forum is that despite some builders clearly not bothering to read other logs, they STILL get lenthy anwers and help from some of the same people whom I know have answered that same question a half-dozen times or more...  so really, I see nothing wrong with how anybody does anything around here.   This forum is already far better than many others...   no complaints at all. 
 
For me, I often totally forget the like button, and actually regret not utilizing it more just to let others know that the work they put into their logs is appreciated, is being read and is still worth doing.   As a relative newb, I rarely have anything useful to add, so try to remember that many of the likes your getting might be from folks not nessesarily ingoring your question, but maybe just are not able to answer it (or if like me, like your question because they themselves have the same one...).  
 
Plus, who am I to critisize your work?  An interesting phenomenom I noticed having read (I think) almost every Longboat build log is that the same people will comment "beautiful job" and "clean work" even though clearly one builder is light years better or cleaner.   To me this is not a dishonestly but rather quite helpful, not only to the builder but also to the continued interest and growth of the hobby.   Truly good criticism comes across in a way that is hard to distinguish, and I personally appreciate the subtlety and the respect people of all skill levels within this particular community show to each other.  
 
Honestly...  this is without a doubt one of the best forums I have ever been lucky enough to discover.   No ego's, clean language, genuine interest in the work and best of all: lots of help....

Hey Popeye, I've followed a number of your posts and logs. I've learned a lot from you,  especially the Flattie build. I recall that you and Dee Dee were exchanging ideas for making hoops.  
 
I had an "adventure in clamping" in which I maybe used a little too much force, clamping at the bow.  I split the deck and lost some wood from the hull. (Boy, those clamps sure do fly!)  
I repaired it the same way I've repaired wallboard. I enlarged and squared off the hole in the hull and glued in some bracing, then I cut and glued a filler piece. I'm satisfied w/ the results, but it will take some filler to fix, and it may take some effort to get the stem to fit.  We'll see.   
 
I started the mast and boom while waiting for the glue to dry. Drilling a series of 1/16 in inch holes in an 1/8 inch gaff gave me pause, but it worked out great.  Surprising for me.  The six inch tri-square that I bought at the local box store helped immensely.  It was a good purchase.  I got a strong six inch rule w/ clear markings, a tri-square, and a scribe that I used to center the hole.  And like I say, it helped me drill straight and true.  
 
Thanks to those who have stopped by and who have wished me well.
 
Mark

Here you go--nice little build. Everything fits. For me, the best part of any build is when you can see its form and still see into its heart