Derek C

I made the dead eyes and chain plates, not the best but if I never have to make dead eyes this small again it will be to soon  I needed  9 total but I bet I made 20 and got 9 semi successful ones out of them . I started with a small square and cut out the general shape then finished them with sanding and filing.

 
Then I used a small brass nail " the same diameter of the nails I will use to mount them once there done  "with the head cut of to form the 1.5 " long piece of 28 gauge wire to make my chain plates .
 
I then twisted th wire until the desired length and added the dead eyes using a drop of glue to secure  them into the chain plates.

 
i also finished the gaff and applied the paint . I used white and black to accent pieces of the boat . Trying to leave as much of the natural teak showing . I plan on using a two part clear coat used on autos for the final finish 
 
i am pretty pleased with the way she is looking for my first scratch build model 
 

Welcome to MSW 2beers  

Looks great

Looks great

hello every body,
 
this time I am so motivated to build a diaroma. and the first step; building the boat 🙂
 
model is based on a drawing of a boat which was reported to be about 4-5 m. by the drawer. due to scaling issues in my scale it is now around 7 m. I also did ome modifications on the deck.

Thanks for your support guys. 
Planking is now completed.
I planked alternatively from keel and Gunwale with the aim of getting the final strake  just below the waterline level.
1206

1207
Worked out fairly evenly along the hull for the final spiled plank.

1208
The final plank shape was marked on tape over the hull and transferred to a broader plank to cut out.
It was then a case of sanding/scraping by degrees to fit it along the hull.

1209
Final strips in place.

1210

1212
The hull now needs fine sanding and a little fettlin'  to fill any hairline cracks along the plank joints.
Relieved that this part of the build is completed, still not overjoyed with the planking, but it has turned out somewhat better than the Pinnace in that there is greater thickness of material left on the hull at this stage, just as well perhaps as the starting thickness was only 0.6mm.
 
I will now spend some time cleaning up the hull before I remove the bulkhead centres.
 
B.E.

Morning all, 
Quiet Sunday morning, hot cup of coffee, and its just me and the cat. Admiral is spending the weekend with her son, and I've been in the Shipyard most of the weekend.
Very few chores have been done. As per protocol, I'll get everything done in the last few hours before she gets home!
 
A good Sunday dinner should resolve any left over issues. Its a beautiful fall weekend here in New England, crisp and cool. That means slow cooker season to me!
The Admiral is a good Irish girl. Think I'll get a boiled dinner going. Nice pink Corned beef, carrots, potatoes and pearl onions.....has to be pearl onions per the Admiral!
Anywho......
 
Started to place the stern timbers. I enter this part of the build kind of gun shy. Heard it can be difficult. The plans are what they are, the build logs here are helping more!
I test fitted the stern timbers, with the stern filler block measurements kept in mind. 
To call these jagged things timbers is over doing it.
 
True story.....I was away from the Shipyard, watching football (huge New England Patriots fan, and long before Brady and company came around!)......and one of em broke......true story!
 
There is no alignment with these things. With the way there place below, the only thing in alignment is the slots for the deck beam. 
I'm going to stick with that in alignment and adjust/sand/carve everything around it.
In the end I only broke two, I'm calling that a victory.
We'll see what happens.
 
 
 
 

Looking good B.E. 

Looks real nice Bluto

the problem with using a block as a means of deflecting the angle of a stay down to the deck, or wherever, is that the pin for the sheve is taking the entire load and is the weak point that will break. The sheave doesn't need to be free to turn once the stay is set up so a thimble is a better solution: no moving parts and the entire fabric of the thimble is taking the load.

Thanks for your comments, Nigel and Tom, and to the others for the likes.
 
The main and mizzen shroud lanyards are eventually made off and the excess trimmed.

Since the bowsprit is now in position I rigged the bowsprit shrouds and bobstays.


In the pic above the boomkins are dry-rigged just to check the fit.  They won't be staying there until the time comes when I'll have to fit them. They look so fragile and vulnerable sticking out the front and they're now back in the 'safe box'.
(The 'safe box' is so safe that a few things that have been hiding in there for a while are no longer 'findable'  and I have had to make replacements -- I have no idea where the originals went!)
O.K. ~ I'll be off now, I think I hear the foremast shrouds calling . . . . .
 

Thanks derek i went red handles and red paddles with a dark timber colour on the centre they look great .

Looks real nice Steve ! Planking with hard wood is difficult I have found out , but yours came out sweet. 

Your kind words are much appreciated. Thank you everyone for the likes. Below is a better photo of the finish. 
Steve

Hi,
Now that the dust has settled on the start of a new school year I've managed devote a bit of time again to this project and have made some more progress ......
 
Shaping the fore and aft deadwoods was holding me up a bit as I tried to make sense of the various sectional profile drawings. My inexperience was evident as I tried to juggle the various profiles and much time was spent working through the other build logs in this section. They certainly helped, and then I came across and followed the link that Dan Vad mentioned in a post referring to his HMS Vulture build. This proved to be a great help and I can see myself visiting this regularly as my build continues - thank's Dan!
 
In the end you just have to dive in and have a go...
 

 
Using a combination of thin brass sheet and acrylic templates pinned to the aft deadwood the sides were reduced to the required shape.
 

 
My first attempt at tapering the lower end of the inner post was not as successful as I had hoped so a second had to be made.
 
The rebates were then cut in the stern post with a scalpel and lower area worked to match the ajoining components prior to being glued together.
 
A carving knife proved an effective way to cut the curving rebate in the stem and subsequent shaping of the fore deadwood. I expect there will be a bit more work ahead on these later.
 

 

 
At last we have a keel!
 

 

 

 
... and work begins on the frames ......
 

 
Cheers,
 
Graham.

Took a long time to decide on a first build, finally picked the 18th Century Longboat from Model Shipway. Spent the first day sanding the burnt sections off the pieces, assembling the Keel and creating the bevel from the bearding line. I also followed BobF's direction to mount my ship with brass rods. 
 

 

Looking good Tom, I guess just wait till you fair the hull and see how that gap will effect your planking but don't look so bad from here 

Evening all,
I installed the bow filler blocks. I've seen the phrase used in other builds that "the second try is usually better".
Soooooooooooooo true!!!!!!!
Can anyone tell which filler block was first?!?!?! Hahahahahahahaha!!!!!!!!
How did I not see that gap at first! Oh well......learning moment.
 
Now I have to decide if I should fill that little gap with wood filler or let it be.
 

 
 
 

 
 
I'll do the final shaping of these when I fair the rest of the ship.
 

 
 
 
Tom E 
 

Looking good , I am considering this kit for my second build . I will follow along to see your masterpiece 

😳 wow ! Simply marvelous Nek0

😳 wow ! Simply marvelous Nek0