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Jeff T

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Everything posted by Jeff T

  1. Here is how the bowsprit and masts look with the cleats attached (from left to right: mizzenmast, bowsprit, mainmast, foremast): The square areas of exposed plastic within the reddish putty on the bowsprit in the photograph in my second post from November 14th were made to allow the solvent cement to make strong bonds with the polystyrene cleats. Eventually, after the topmasts are made and attached and after the spars are made, I will spray them all brown and then "weather" them. For rigging, my plan will be to belay the spritsail
  2. I made some cleats to mount on the foremast, mainmast and bowsprit. These will eventually be used to belay certain rigging lines. Since the kit is plastic, I used polystyrene strips to make the cleats, since there would be a good, strong bond between the cleat and the mast, which could handle some tension. fil I first filed down a strip with a round file so that the undersurface of the cleats would be concave. This helps it conform to the "roundness" of the mast or bowsprit: Here is how the undersurface appears after filing: Then
  3. Patrick, congratulations on this amazing build — you packed so much realistic detail into this small scale, and it has been an inspiration for my own plastic ship build. Your skill and precision are exemplary!
  4. There is a glue called Craftics Thickened Cement #33 that I have used for gluing small pieces of polycarbonate to styrene on my plastic model, and since it is not too thin, I think maybe one could mask the edges of the polycarbonate being joined to protect the surfaces from overflow and “spider web” strings from extruding glue, without the glue creeping under the tape. The surfaces would probably need to be masked on the inside and the outside of the seams. Here is a link: https://www.craftics.net/ShowItems.aspx?Category=80&ParentCategory=3 Craftics makes thin glu
  5. It’s great to see in your photos how the white glue works to stiffen the sails in a “billowed” shape by treating them over the plastic ones. This is coming along very nicely!
  6. In addition to the problem where the seams did not line up correctly, there were a lot of variations in the contour or "roundness" of the masts and bowsprit (although they really are not completely round anyway -- more like "oval"). I wanted to make them as consistent as possible, so this required a lot of work. I used a steel-filled epoxy (J-B Weld) and also Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty to smooth things out: The brass rods that you see protruding from them (glued in place with steel-filled epoxy) will later be shortened and used to hold the spars up to the masts a
  7. I decided to take a break from painting for a while, and looked ahead to the masts and spars. The plastic in this kit is a bit pliable, with an almost "waxy" texture to it when handled. (I remember styrene in kits that I built in my youth being more rigid, and maybe even brittle at times). Since this plastic bends, the spars and upper masts may be a little difficult to manage when rigging is applied with a little tension. Even the lower masts and bowsprit are thin and may bend. Other members on this forum have used wood on the inside to strengthen them. What I decided to do i
  8. Here is a link to a website that may help explain why boat or ship masts are slanted forward or aft: https://www.woodenboat.com/whiskey_plank/why-mast-rake So you may see it on other models as well.
  9. I can see your photos now and I would like to congratulate you on a great job (especially for your first sailing ship)! I love the weathering — including the barnacles — and your attention to detail. Bravo!
  10. The bit of rigging on the bowsprit to which you are pointing in the last picture is called gammoning. Here is a link that has some information on how to do it: I am not sure of the reason, but all of the other pictures that you placed in your post are not visible to me (they are just blank). What technique did you use to place them in the post (e.g. drag and drop, or copy and paste)? Maybe some of the other people viewing the post can see them?
  11. Here is another thought for the windows, if you would like: You can repaint them black first, and let them thoroughly dry. Then, mix a VERY small amount of white acrylic into a bit of your clear polyurethane varnish, so that when you paint that mixture over the black, you will get a very slightly hazy gloss — this can simulate a slightly dirty glass window outside the dark cabin.
  12. When following Backer's log on his scratch-built Golden Hind 1/45 scale, I wondered how I would also solve the problem of the mainstay coming down to the beakhead, because the rigging instructions by Revell do not do it that way, and I wanted to follow a plan more like that outlined by Peter Kirsch in his Galleon book, referenced previously in this log. So I did a crude preliminary test, but keep in mind, doing anything concrete with the rigging will still be a long way off for me: Fortunately, it looks like I will likely be abl
  13. Robert, The topics linked by Ryland Craze have some good recommendations. I am afraid that my own pair of magnifiers is not as fancy as what is discussed in those links. I have plastic lenses, not glass, but so far, they have lasted over three years. This is what I have: I cannot remember the brand name. For the lighting, I use an LED penlight that takes a single AAA battery (I use rechargeable, which last over 2 hours at a time). The LED penlight is mounted on the frame of the magnifier by means of velcro so that I can remove it to change the battery.
  14. Bill, I really like your weathering on the hull. The simulated caulking of the deck boards is a nice touch.
  15. Going under the railing is definitely a way to do it. On a replica here in San Diego of a galleon ship that sailed in 1542, the mainstay also travels under the railing: An interesting thing is how after the fore part of the mainstay is stropped around a deadeye, the two limbs are first “seized” together, then they separate to go around the foremast as a “loop” rather than sit together to one side of it or the other. Here is how it looks from the forecastle: It still attaches to the beakhead rather than the foremast. But what appears to be th
  16. Very nice, Robert! Sometimes, the smaller the scale, the tougher the project. I use a head-mounted magnifying pair of lenses, but that still doesn’t solve the “shaking hand” problem that looks like an earthquake through them 🙂.
  17. Masking tape residue may be removed with mineral spirits. Using odorless mineral spirits, gently applied with a soft brush and then blotted off with a very soft cloth, may work. Brush bristles and cloths can potentially scratch the clear plastic, so you have to be very careful, however it may take a little light brushing with the odorless mineral spirits to loosen the sticky residue, and you may need to do it more than once to get it all off. It’s important not to use the mineral spirits in standard paint thinner because it may be mixed with another chemical that may harm plastic. Since th
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