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Jeff T

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Everything posted by Jeff T

  1. Steven, I like this idea that you used for keeping your sail from deforming when you cut it. I will keep the technique in mind when it comes time for me to cut my own lateen sail.
  2. Thank you for your kind comments. Making these modifications takes extra time and fuss, but I think it is worth it.
  3. Here it is after the base color and the holes for the capstan bars were painted: I used the same type of paint (Testors enamel) that I often use for plastic parts in the kit, so in order to apply one of the same enamel "washes" that I have used previously for weathering, I first needed to apply an acrylic isolation coat (a clear gloss): Here it is after the weathering: Pictured next to one of the sailors (yet to be painted): I think the scale is reasonably close. I know that the proportions of
  4. I attached a temporary stand to the base of the capstan and set it up on my hand drill held in place with a vise: When I had spun it with the drill, sanding it down with a makeshift "sanding block", it looked like this: I also modified the whelps a bit: After I marked and drilled the holes for the capstan bars (which I will not mount or include, since the ship will be at sail and the anchors will be up), I squared off the round holes the best that I could: After the whelps were glu
  5. The kit includes parts for a windlass which would be assembled, painted black, and placed on the main deck: I decided not to use it for my galleon. At the Maritime Museum of San Diego, the replica of a mid-sixteenth century Spanish galleon, San Salvador, was well-researched and is supposed to be as authentic as possible for a galleon of its time period, so I oftentimes look to it for ideas. It has a capstan instead of a windlass: Here is the size of the capstan with respect to the size of a person: I see that in Peter
  6. Very impressive job with all those oarsmen — looks like this model could be a museum piece!
  7. My best wishes for strength for you and your family in these difficult times.
  8. Robert, I hope your family member recovers soon — my thoughts are with you. Your model is looking very good — it’s great to see all that rigging in place so far! 👍🏻
  9. The hull is now painted below the waterline. The first photo shows it covered above the waterline masking and ready to paint: This next one shows how it looked after it was sprayed with multiple coats of a slightly off-white paint from a spray can ("rattle can"). I used an enamel paint because in my experience enamel adheres better to plastic than acrylic. Multiple coats were necessary because I wanted an opaque, uniform color, and the dark hull not to show through. Here are a few views after the masking was removed and a little "
  10. Robert, this is one way in which the English Man O’ War differs from the Spanish Galleon. The two kits apparently share the same mold for the main deck, so that hole exists in both. However, the Spanish Galleon only has three masts (instead of four as in the English Man O’ War). The Spanish Galleon’s mizzen mast is actually placed further aft than what you see with the Man O’ War, since there is no bonaventure mast in the Galleon. In the Spanish Galleon, the mizzen is placed on the quarterdeck, and it does not go down completely to the deck below. I hope this helps explain it.
  11. Thanks, Bill! I am aware that it likely does not represent a specific ship, and there are some problems with proportions. Some old paintings do show very high sterncastles (and forecastles, for that matter) on Spanish galleons. But since there is so much variability in the galleons’ appearances in the paintings, I am not sure if the artists were intent on making their paintings entirely accurate in the lines of the ships. I am a bit bothered by how high the masts are in this model, so I have decided to make upper masts and spars out of wood to lessen their length a bit, going more for pr
  12. Thanks, Nino. The lacquer is not perfect in preventing an occasional small “chip”, but it does a reasonably good job.
  13. You’re welcome, Bill. I think that if it had not been for online forums and other sites, I would not have been able to expand my knowledge, and I continue to learn new ways to improve the results. I am happy to share it with others.
  14. Thanks. It takes some time, but it’s worth it in the end considering all of the hours invested in the whole project.
  15. Thank you, Old Collingwood. By the way, your build of The Black Pearl is amazing, and I think that the alterations really add uniqueness and life to it (especially with those awesome pirate figures that you added)! The figures that are included with the Spanish Galleon are less varied (repetitions of the same poses), but I definitely intend to use them.
  16. There is an additional hole on the main deck that has no purpose for this model. I did not initially realize this fact when I painted the deck and glued it in place. I figured that each hole had a purpose for cementing bitts, masts, etc. It appears to be a hole to fit a mast, and it is located behind the rowle where the whipstaff will be attached (to the left of it in this view): The Revell 1:96 (really 1:64-65) Spanish Galleon shares many of the same molds as the English Man O' War. They probably share the same main deck mold. Spanish Galleon has three masts, wit
  17. The kit comes with plastic eyebolts that are for securing the cannon breeching ropes to the bulwarks and for tying the boat to the deck. I decided to replace them with brass pieces. I have some "cotter pin" style two-legged eye pins that I modified for the job: (To the left in the image above, you can see a couple of the plastic pins from the kit.) I shortened the legs of the pins that I would use and then painted them with black enamel paint (in lieu of brass blackening solution, which would also have worked). I scraped paint off of the "stumps" of the
  18. I really like the stern lanterns — they seem to glow orange with the backlighting. What material did you use in them to achieve that?
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