hamilton
-
Posts
1,916 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by hamilton
-
Looks really nice. Some sanding and filling and she'll be ready to paint! Congratulations hamilton -
Yes....I'm only a little ashamed to admit it....you think at my slow pace the results would be better!! Anyway, I'll have to get back to it one day.... hamilton
-
Hi Tim: Knowing very little about thread, I'm assuming there must be some very fine synthetic thread that has very little fray....I used upholstery thread for seizings on larger lines like shrouds and lower stays as well as for substituting kit-supplied .008" tan thread on finer lines. It's a little over scale, but it works alright - I have a meeting next week close by to the fabric/sewing supply store where I normally buy thread and sail cloth...I'll take a look to see if there's a decent product hamilton
-
Hi Tim: This looks good! Was it easy to get the hang of the serving machine? The results are really fantastic....I think I will take the same approach - if I ever get that far!! hamilton
-
Hi Tim: I was thinking about getting one of those.....might need to wait as other purchases (not to mention my mortgage) are taking priority. I don't think the lines would have been painted at all. David's suggestion that it was some kind of sheathing or wrapping around that part of the shrouds seems more likely to me - probably some kind of canvas cover designed to protect the shrouds. Painting or serving would be a way of simulating this at scale. I know that the foremost shroud on period ships of war was served for the entire length, while other shrouds were served at the mast head and for a short length below. I'm not sure if serving shrouds was regular practice for a racing vessel.....But if you can achieve the look you're aiming for through this method, then who's to argue? I think the builder of the Mamoli prototype must have painted the shrouds to achieve the same effect, but the potential for sloppiness in this approach seems great, while careful serving would likely look a lot tidier. Looking forward to seeing your results! hamilton
-
I wondered if it might be some kind of serving over the shroud......but a sleeve of some kind is also a possibility.......and more likely hamilton
-
So I'm not sure about copyright, so instead of including images here I'm just going to post links - this is a pain, I know, since it would be easier just to reference pictures in line, but........ Tim (mojofilter) asked a question regarding the shrouds on America. The photos of the kit prototype on the box show the shrouds finished white for close to half their lower length, with the sheer poles also white. They are represented as unpainted (black/tarred) below the sheer poles and the deadeyes are a natural wood finish. The question is whether this would have been the way the 1851 America would have been rigged. I've seen several paintings that suggest that, yes, this was the practice. They are faint, but they are there. Here are a couple of links http://www.jrusselljinishiangallery.com/pages/ryan-pages/ryan-schooner%20yacht%20america.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/America_(yacht)#/media/File:America_(schooner_yacht)_by_Bard.jpg This second painting seems pretty rudimenary compared to the first, but it confirms the finishing of the shrouds. I've never painted rigging line, so I don't know if there's anything particular to keep in mind - I assume it may involve more than just slapping the paint on! I also have no idea why such a finishing would be given to the shrouds - does anyone know? But Tim - I think I will do the shrouds this way - or at least I'll test some white paint on some rigging line and see what I think and then decide for sure..... hamilton
-
Thanks David - yes this makes sense. The Mamoli kit does show them at least partially painted white, though....not sure how common this practice was or whether it's one of those fanciful embellishments often found on model kits..... hamilton
-
Hi Tim.....hmmm no - actually I hadn't noticed. I know that in more contemporary rigging practice this would be wire, and therefore would either be grey or perhaps painted white or some other colour.....But I'm not aware of the specifics of period rigging practice and did not notice the picture on the box....I also don't know how accurate Mamoli's representation might be. There are several paintings of America that I managed to find through a Google image search, though I haven't inspected them for rigging details....I'm at work at the moment but this evening when I get a chance I'll have a look through the paintings to see if there are any clues to this...... hamilton
-
Hi Tim: Thanks for your kind words! I didn't actually consult the kit for the planking, but I like the 3-butt shift. And no, there was no pre-cut cap rail with the kit...I have a thin sheet of walnut that I'll use....I think yours turned out great - hopefully I can achieve something similar. Bye for now hamilton
-
More progress on America I've been avoiding getting back to the second layer of hull planking - I won't be able to avoid it much longer, though.....Instead, I've been focusing on the decks and bulwarks. Tonight I started on planking the fore deck and installing the bulwark stanchions. The latter I started from three points - at the step of the aft deck port and starboard and at the centre of the transom bulwarks. From there, I installed several stanchions fore and aft and radiating out along the inboard transom. Not very exciting, but it's nice not to struggle with the hull planking! Here are some photos - the detritus on the forward deck is pre-cut deck planks. Enjoy
-
I agree - I wish there were more large scale models of working boats like the Glad Tidings.....I have the p.o.f. Emma C. Berry from Model Shipways, and I've built Corel's Flattie and Brittany Sloop - both were a lot of fun, and in a large enough scale (1:25) to add quite a bit of detail. hamilton
-
Great work on a really fun kit - I built this one a couple of years ago and it still ranks as one of my favourite builds so far. Hope you're having fun with it hamilton
-
Welcome back Andy! Looking forward to following along with this one! hamilton
-
I guess the break from building must have brought on a real burst of energy! You're making great progress! hamilton
-
Hi Tim: The .25 .40 and .80 refer to the diameter (or thickness) of the rigging line - in metric! I believe Chuck has both imperial and metric gauges listed for his rigging line - the dimensions may not be exact (a little thicker or thinner) but they'll be close enough and his rigging line is (as others have noted) excellent. If you've got some money to burn, I'd recommend the investment - not only for the way it looks, but for the fact that it is so easy to work with! hamilton
-
There's a couple of guides to tools on the NRG resources page - check here http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php The most used tools for me are my hobby knife and #11 and #10 blades as well as x-acto saw blades. Needle files get quite a lot of use and several sanding blocks and sticks. mini clamps get used with great frequency during rigging, as does my third hand device. And, of course, it's good to invest in a decent pin vice and micro drill bitts. And tweezers - a good stainless steel set of needle-nose and bent-nose tweezers are essential. hamilton
-
Ahh "block tumbler"!! Thanks EJ! On the sails....the material provided with the kit is both too white and too thick.....I have done sails before - they've never been great, but I've not been entirely unhappy with them. For the whiteness, you can "dye" the sail cloth in a dark black tea - I'm sure someone can recommend a combination, but a deeply brewed loose earl grey worked ok for me....the cloth needs to be very well-ironed first and you should endeavour to soak the cloth absolutely flat - any wrinkles will show in the dye and that will be that..... I've only tried tea dying once and it worked out "ok" - but other times I've gone to a sewing/textile store and purchased light muslin fabric pre-dyed a kind of light tan colour. You can easily eyeball something that will work more or less at your scale. The operation of the sewing machine is another matter - it took a while for me to figure out how to get good straight stitching, but once this was done it's pretty much a snap. My wife spent some time laughing as I learned the ropes of the devilish device! The hardest part is sewing the edges of the cloth - more difficult the smaller the scale, obviously, since the "hem" along the sail edge will be smaller and thus harder to control in the sewing.... Another tricky thing is the bolt rope that runs along the outside edge of the sails. Many how-tos (and all kit plans/instructions I've ever seen) recommend hand stitching the bolt rope on....I started to do this once and realised how crazy-making it was and elected another option - to glue the bolt rope on with CA - this sounds very messy (and it can be), but if you use one of those thin applicator tubes on your CA bottle, you can control the glue quite easily and not make so much of a mess or make the sails all hard and patchy.... Not sure how helpful all this is - I guess my point is that I would encourage you to take a shot at the sails - if you have access to a sewing machine, that is...otherwise, you can probably skip it....I think I'll include sails on this one - there are only 5, so not too crazy..... hamilton
-
Hi Tim: Yes about the quality of the blocks.....I've found that the blocks supplied in Mamoli and Corel kits are the same, often very frayed and square looking....on a different kit I would replace the blocks with ones purchased from Chuck's Syren Ship Model Co.....but I don't think I will for this one.....I think there's a little tool you can make with an old can, some bristol paper or card stock, and sand paper that can allow you to shape the blocks en masse. Someone here will know what I'm talking about, but that part of my brain doesn't seem to be functioning today......... hamilton
-
Looks great! Is this the natural finish of the planks or did you treat them in some way? hamilton
-
Harlequin: The fact that there are rats involved in the slow deterioration of your Greyhound simply adds to the authenticity of the build - despite what I imagine is a serious scale issue...... I kind of do kind of don't miss the Greyhound.....I definitely put more effort into it than I am with this one, for some reason.....anyways, always wish I had more time for modelling - now it's back to work! hamilton
-
Hi Tim: Scratch building these is definitely the way to go....I'm keen to see how your versions turn out - I will likely follow suit. hamilton
Our Emblem ®
