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Everything posted by hamilton
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Thanks Bob! I'm thinking I'll have to invest in a small paint brush to apply the glue on the thin edges....I use weldbond PVA as my main adhesive for planking and it dries quite firm....but I think if I use a #10 or chisel x-acto blade as a putty knife I might be able to get as clean a result as you've achieved here! Thanks again for the tip! hamilton
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Gretel by hamilton - Mamoli
hamilton replied to hamilton's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Thanks Mark: This reconstruction of the build was inspired by another MSW member who expressed some curiosity about the model - this made me curious about whether putting a log together for a build from 3 years ago would be an enjoyable experience....we'll see!! hamilton -
Gretel by hamilton - Mamoli
hamilton replied to hamilton's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Hi Per: This is good to know - I was unaware of this during the build - and in fact, I recall another modeller noting the discrepancy between the flag and the notion that it was a "Dutch" yacht....I think both that modeller and I had assumed that "Dutch" referred to the jurisdiction under which she sailed not to the design. This adds a lot of clarity to things, and makes me feel marginally better about the flag! hamilton -
Gretel by hamilton - Mamoli
hamilton replied to hamilton's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
Hi Per: Yes - the flag is wrong on another count too - it's Swedish, whereas the kit is advertised as a "Dutch" Yacht....I ended up keeping the Swedish pennant...but I was not, at the time, too concerned with accuracy, more with learning some new techniques.....thanks for coming along for this reconstruction hamilton -
Hi there: For the sake of posterity and as a retrospective, I thought I would post this log of my Mamoli Yacht Gretel. This model was constructed between August and December of 2011, prior to the time when I joined MSW. I might have kept a log of the build over on LSS, when I was a member there.... Anyway, there are many features of the model that I can't recall - including the scale! But I do remember several things about the kit 1. The CNC bulkheads needed a lot of adjustment - they were very loose in the keel and needed significant shimming on their outside edges for the planking to run fair 2. The cast metal parts were very difficult to work with and I found them quite gaudy - I replaced the forward and port/starboard cabin windows, but ended up keeping the transom decoration, though in order to make it fit, I had to modify the transom slightly - the metal part is totally flat but the transom was curved and there was no way to bend these metal parts without breaking them..... 3. This was one of the first builds that I wanted to do some detailing on, despite the very small scale. So I designed, built and installed some cabin details (sadly not really visible on the finished model since I didn't really think about making structural modifications so as to make them visible). These were a lot of fun to make, though true scratch builders will notice a great many flaws in both scale and construction! I also seem to recall that the kit was a lot of fun to build - nice and simple but quite cute and a pretty interesting subject. I'll try to make weekly updates to this log to trace the build as it developed and to remember as much as I can about some of the quirks of the kit and my own construction strategies.....though I still have my Mamoli America to attend to, not to mention other "real world" obligations! Enjoy!
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Hi Chris: I've coppered a few hulls, but never the Bounty, so I'm not sure I can help with the specifics, since each hull will be different. The main thing to keep in mind, depending again on the hull, is that the coppering would have gone on in sections separated by "gore lines". The gore lines define a band of copper plates working up from the keel - so start on the keel sides and work your way up. The gore will cut across the lower lines of copper plating and define a new line for the plates to follow fore and aft. Others will be more knowledgeable about these features than me - specifically in terms of how many bands might have been used on the Bounty, and how to locate the gore line(s) on a hull....On the hulls I've coppered, the gores have been featured on the plans, so I simply measured up from the baseline and transferred those measurements to the model..... Does the Amati kit contain a plan that shows the coppering? If it's a scale drawing (most likely a full profile) you might be able to lift the dimensions of the plates from the upper line of coppering, which should show the full plates and be at scale amidships. If the scale drawings contain a body plan that features the coppering, you should be able to lift the gore lines from that and transfer them to the model (harder to do on the profile plan, since the curves of the hull will distort the view....)..... Again - other more experienced modellers will have better (and maybe different) advice for you. Best of luck - Coppering is a very repotting business but rewarding when it's done! Find yourself some good music or podcasts to listen to while you're doing it! hamilton
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Very nice work with the spilled planking Jason. It took me ages to wrap my head around the process and I still don't have it dialled - mostly I think because I may not be fairing to very exact lines.....but you can really tell the difference in your last photo - the amount of edge bending that would accumulate into the planking would make for a very messy job if left alone.....anyway, the hull is shaping up very nicely and that boxwood looks great! hamilton
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She's coming along nicely there Bob! I have a (selfish) question about your gluing - I'm almost at the stage of bulwark planking on my America and face a similar challenge having to edge glue quite thin 1mm planks that will be exposed inboard. I'm kind of at a loss as to how to apply the glue and install the planks in a way that won't mar the inside faces of the bulwarks. In your case, was it just a question of lifting off glue as it squeezed out from between the planks? Was there a technique you used for applying the glue to the planks? Sorry to pester, and thanks for any advice! hamilton
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Hi Bob: I've always been curious about this kit - followed the recent build mentioned by Brian above with great interest and will follow this one too. I have to say that's the worst warp I've ever seen in any kit supplied materials! When I saw it I immediately imagined one of those 16 ton weights I used to see falling on wile-e-coyote - hopefully you have some more practical solution to fixing it! hamilton
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Hi Nigel: She's shaping up very nicely - the said will really liven her up hamilton
- 270 replies
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- red dragon
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Excellent job Brian - a real beauty - be very proud! hamilton
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- Armed Virginia Sloop
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Beautiful work on the stove - great improvement over the supplied part! hamilton
- 306 replies
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- armed virginia sloop
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Off to a good start with the coppering - it'll really bring some life to your model! hamilton
- 28 replies
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So I've not been idle, which means very little work has been done on America....I've managed to proceed somewhat on the planking, but it is very slow going....I can only work one evening a week which is just enough time to fit 3 planks on each side - and I'm planking forward from mid-ships first and then the stern section after.....At this rate, it'll be 2 weeks till the forward half of the hull is done (1st planking) and likely another 5-6 weeks for the stern.....things will pick up after Christmas, since my Spring semester is a bit lighter than the Fall, but who knows! Anyway, the planking has gone alright so far. I've had to do some little tricks to get everything to run nicely and the wood is pretty splintery and soft which does not make it easy. After the first two strakes I noticed that the strakes really bent upwards, given the very sharp twist that each strake makes as it moves from the round mid-ship to the more dagger-like bow. The same will be the case in the aft section, where up to the turn of the bilge the strakes run from vertical to horizontal where they tuck in at the counter. The issues I keep turning over in my mind as the planking proceeds are: 1. Should the keel, stem & sternpost be planked with thin strips to form a rabbet for the first planking, or should the planks thin out and taper into them? The plans show the keel planked with the same material used on the hull, which makes no sense, since if I followed through on this the keel would end up being 8mm thick!!! I have thought of ending the first planking at the bottoms of the bulkheads and then using the .5mm second planking to line the hull including the keel, stem & sternpost. This would produce, I think, a more even and much more realistic result. 2. How to do the bulwarks. The first layer of planking is 1mm walnut. But I have to edge glue this to the hull planking to fit the strakes since I will have to remove the bulkhead extensions and can only dry clamp the strakes to the extensions to achieve the proper run. The inboard face of these planks will be exposed and if possible, I would like to leave them natural, which means I can't get any PVA on them....I'm at a loss as to how to apply the glue in such a way as to prevent it squeezing out and drying on the inboard face of the planks...any suggestions here would be most welcome. Anyways, here are a few shots of the progress to date - please keep in mind that the planking has not been worked on at all, so it looks pretty rough. Once the whole thing is planked I'll work it over with some filler and sandpaper and hopefully it will shape up nicely..... hamilton
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Absolutely gorgeous work. This is such a fine kit - it really makes me wish I lived in a larger space!! hamilton
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I guess with the wale extension you won't be adding the fashion piece? Either way she's looking beautiful. What are your plans for finishing the transom outboard? hamilton
- 306 replies
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I've been following emelbe's (sp.?) build log and I'll tag along with this one too - this looks like a really really nice kit hamilton
- 208 replies
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Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
hamilton replied to rafine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Very nice detailing on the companionway - the cambered hatch coamings also look nice - did you need to make any adjustments to the camber based on your particular model? Thinking about investing in some of these for my Bellona and for Constitution when the times come..... hamilton- 525 replies
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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The outer transom and counter planking look really nice - she's shaping up! hamilton
- 306 replies
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