hollowneck

PeteB, Now that you have a high-quality plane, you may want to consider investing in a set-up for keeping your blades ultra-sharp. Here is what I use (photo from my Build Log here re: HMS Sphinx): a sharpening guide (for proper blade angle), stone, and rubbing pumice/leather strop. This is also referred to as a "waterless" sharpening approach which woks just fine for the type of wood planing we do in this hobby.

Nick, try the phone. I recently spoke with Jim Byrnes' wife by phone.

You're correct, the stern fascia placement is where you need to be careful. I also recall there was confusion about step #220 and the gallery finishing piece, but how this was resolved by others I'm not certain.

Unfortunately, my Sphinx (neé HMS Camilla) build started after I had completed my early hull building steps. However, check out the other build logs for Sphinx, especially Blue Ensign's (if you haven't done so already.) This stern area of the build is very demanding, correct millimeter placement and sanding are critical.

Hey Egor, Better late than never😳... Thanks for the answers. When you find the time check out my Build Log for HMS Camilla (the HMS Sphinx kit from Vanguard). Lots o' silkspan on her bones (and mucho "Crafty" rope & blocks!). The Russkis do make great bits n' pieces (and they are amazing ship modelers along with Ukrainians). Too bad so many Russians get their politics all wrong - most of the time - dating back to 998. This has gone on for so long that I now believe it is likely a genetic defect. Slava Ukraina!* * one of the largest diasporas of Ukrainian/Americans is in my new neighborhood here in Bucks County, Pennsylvania. Lots of Ukrainian flags and blue and yellow everywhere. ** I've purchased a plastic kit of the Russian ship "Varyag" that I'm going to put into a diorama of the Moskva lying at Peace on the a Black Sea seabed, it's new home "port."

Etsy- a good source for unique items. Thanks for posting this source; I’ve usually gone to chain retailer Joanne’s Fabrics.Here’s a pic of the beige netting on my current build. It appears whiter than it is owing to the strong overhead lighting.

With the majority of legacy models I've seen over the years (in-person and in reference materials), the netting for hammock cranes was simulating interlaced hemp rope. I have also seen contemporary models where this added detail is shown with black netting; I believe this is incorrect. Besides his wooden plate and grog mug, one of a 17th & 18th C sailor's most important personal possessions was his hammock; I don't think a sailor would have been very happy to be sleeping in a shell of canvas that has smears - or gobs - of Stockholm tarred rope residue! I use a beige color for this detail on my models as the color more accurately represents hemp rope. The material I use (which is reasonably close to scale-accurate at 1:64), is called "tule." Tule is a synthetic bridal veil material commonly available. However, the beige color is not as easy to get as either black or white. Hope this helps. I'll be interested to see what others say here.

Welcome Dave. You’ve found the Good, the Better and The Best for all model ship making serious fun. Questions? Fire away!

Thanks, Brian. Pure cane sugar for Camilla’s bones, no high fructose corn syrup calories.😄 Have you guessed which figure could be my alter-ego?

Thank you, Nipper. ‘Inspiration” is a good thing and I am pleased if I can encourage forum members to continue their support of Chris Watton & all he does to make our hobby exciting as well as rewarding. I’m hoping his sales of little blue men is convincing him to offer more “commoner” tars - a growing crew- even if he has to round them up with a press gang!

Rig it, Josh. You can do it. Great Winter project leaning into the NE Conference next April, 2023.

I have a “ShopFox” ceiling mounted air cleaning system in the area where I make fine particle sawdust. For bigger wood particles, I use a simple ShopVac hooked up to the outlet tubes (disc sander, table saw, etc.). For “fumes’’ (like lacquer or some acrylics) I do this outside, sometimes in the garage using various sizes of throwaway cardboard boxes (my spray booths). For glue and sometimes paint fumes, I have a small desktop air filtration unit. Hope this info is useful…

Psssst…Brian? Did you sand and oil the “keg” on your living room coffee table? If so, you’re a braver man than I!😲 The Watco Danish oil looks great.

Thank You B.E., much appreciated.

Thanks, Josh. Nearing the finish line. I'll sign you up after the club's Holiday sing-a-long!😂

It’s a SAILCYCLE. I’m guessing that head injuries weren’t a thing in 1934: noggin helmet optional with a suit and tie. I recall riding my bike ‘no hands.’ This skill would be very helpful when tacking this rig by grabbing and tugging on the clothesline to maximize your speed. I also imagine that in a stiff breeze you could also take your feet off the pedals.😬

Planking the wale will work out fine, Jeff. Don’t forget to transpose the scupper hole positions to the hull.

Your basic hull looks very good; I had some difficulty conforming the single piece wale pattern and decided to plank my model’s wales. I lost the nicely laser-engraved plank scarfing lines of this detail, but after painting I’m glad I made this decision. Other builders here have successfully executed this step so it is possible. The answer: heat, water, lots of creative clamping solutions…

Thank you, Jim. These little fellows are fun all around. Painting first, then carefully removing their resin bases, then playing “toy sailors.” One day I might just add a full 100-man on-deck crew to a large model…but this depends on Chris @ Vanguard to keep the 3D printer busy!😂

Pennant fixed. Thanks to B.E. for pointing out that the Cross of St. George was missing. Pretty obvious that I added a paper fix with this close-up. Perhaps less noticeable is the tiny section of rope meant to simulate the halyard passing through the mast’s single-sheaved truck. With the painting of Camilla’s diorama coming up this week, I decided to first button-down all the rigging, add the balance of her crew and do minor touchups before the model is placed back into her waterline seascape. Taking care of these details at this stage will be much easier since the diorama is large; access will be a challenge once the model is ‘sealed’ into her water. This shot clearly shows the importance of upgrading to high-quality rope. This close-up is approximately 800% of actual figure size (28mm or a little over 1” high). The textures of realistic-looking rope are quite apparent even with the thinnest diameters(.30-.45mm). Cpt. Pennypincher has asked Wigglesworth to set aside their differences and consider his offer to serve as Pennypincher’s second-in-command. This will resolve the issue satisfactorily for the ship’s crew since both leaders are well-respected. ”I am honored, Pennypincher. Now. Let’s attend to the task at-hand and grab some Froggie prizes, I say!” Never hurts to have gunnery practice, especially with the Navy’s newfangled carronades. A few loose ropes remain with their rope hanks. I started the balancing and tightening of her rigging at the stern and worked my way forward to the stem. After all the running rigging was set, some of the standing rigging needed adjustments to tighten it up. After rigging has been on the model for a few weeks it will relax and last-minute tweaks are necessary to conform it, particularly the backstays. I created a spare main topmast and it can be seen in this photo next to the launch. Like the ship’s boat, the spare mast will be lashed to the skids. The likelihood of battle damage was high when on post duty in the channel where encounters with the enemy were nearly certain. The loss of propulsion owing to a mast-severing cannon ball was a very real threat in close encounter frigate battles. + Midshipman Smythe is one of my favorite blokes from Vanguard. I must have placed him in at least a half-dozen spots before finally deciding on this position. He’s hauling the mizzentops’ls sheet hoping the additional canvas will give her another knot or two… ! My second favorite dude, sailing Master Wilcox.He’s keeping a sharp weather-eye on the hauled Main course. Another 800% close-up. As they told him while on the film set for Master & Commander, “…the camera likes you, Wilcox.” Camilla’s ensign has been sprayed with a dull-coat flat lacquer that imparted a very convincing fabric texture. The copier paper I used for the color print had a sheen that made it almost look plastic, toy-like. I am quite pleased with Vanguard’s figures. The high quality of these 3D-printed figures helps to animate the model. Thanks to Chris W @ Vanguard these period accurate, mini people are a game-changer for us diorama presenters.

Dan, check your PM.

Happy Birthday. Keep rock'n the Model Ship World!

I like it. Keep Calm and Carry On.

Thanks B.E. I'm on it! Now that it's mounted, rather than paint I'll print two white and red English crosses and glue them to the hoist section of the pennant on both sides. If you look closely at the two officers - and thanks to his man-servant- you'll see that Cpt. Wigglesworth is now wearing recently laundered, clean britches. Thanks. Much appreciated. I don't wish to invoke the anger of either gentleman. Thanks to B.E.'s timely suggestion, I'll cross this bridge later today.

Excellent description of your work. The draped flag may be the best I’ve seen on the forum. Thanks for detailing the steps and also for attempting some of the suggested alternatives. I wholly concur with your final choice. It looks great on your model.